Written by:

Chris Colson (GT4 List)


> I have just seen the recent fuel filter thread so thought I would 
> repost some tips on changing the fuel filter that I posted years ago:
> 
> 1  The new filter comes with a new clamp, so while you could remove 
> the filter from the clamp it's better just to fit the whole 
> assembly.  You want the filter tight in the clamp so it won't spin 
> when the union is done up/undone and you will never get it as tight 
> as it is from the box doing it up with the clamp in the car.
> 
> 2  It can be done without removing the canister BUT it's a bitch to 
> do.  I abandoned the idea of removing the canister to ease the filter 
> change because it looked as though the canister was just as hard to 
> get out.  The front bolt on the clamp is the problem.  You need a 
> quarter inch drive socket set with a swivel joint and a short 
> extension.  The order is socket (10mm from memory), swivel, then 
> extension then ratchet.  Working from the top you can just thread the 
> socket onto the bolt.  When you're putting it back on, put a 10mm nut 
> in the socket (so that you can apply pressure to the bolt to engage 
> the thread) then use lots of grease on the bolt head to hold it in 
> the socket while you reach it into its hole.  Before you try to 
> thread the front bolt on, adjust the rear bolt's tightness until you 
> can see that the hole in the clamp lines up with the hole in the body 
> (when you come to do it this will be clearer).
> 
> 3  To do the inlet connection on the bottom you need to remove the LF 
> wheel and work in through the tie rod hole.  Remove the inlet BEFORE 
> you do the outlet.
> 
> 4  When you get the filter mount bolts in don't tighten them until 
> you've reconnected the bottom connection.  It's steel and doesn't 
> have much flexibility so if you just tighten the filter mounts the 
> filter will probably not be in a position where the bottom connection 
> can be fitted.  You need to get the inlet connected and then the 
> mount will tighten into a position that both parties are comfortable 
> with.
> 
> 5  When removing the top union, be very careful of the filter 
> twisting in its mount.  You don't know if the last person who 
> tightened it used about 90lbft of torque.  If it twists it will bend 
> the steel part of the fuel delivery pipe.  Watch it like a hawk and 
> if it starts to twist, stop and get a friend to hold a socket on the 
> hex at the bottom of the filter to resist your torque on the union 
> bolt.  For the same reasons, don't overtighten the union bolt when 
> you refit it.
> 
> 6  The washers on the union are crush washers and should always be 
> replaced.  The new filter comes with at least one.  Your local hose 
> emporium should be able to sell you as many as you need.
> 
> 7  Before you start relieve the fuel pressure in the system.  Take 
> out the 15A EFI fuse, then turn the engine over a few times.  Even 
> with no pressure in the system, some fuel will spill out so have 
> plenty of rags handy at the appropriate times.  Disconnect the 
> battery to make sure there is no possibility of sparks.
> 
> It can be done but as with every GTFour job, there will be times you 
> wish you had four hands the size of a baby's.
> 
> Chris Colson
> 91 Grp A