How to Know When Diff Subframe & Suspension Bushings are Bad

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Re: How to Know When Diff Subframe & Suspension Bushings are

Postby 8BitBrody » Thu May 10, 2018 2:06 am

Are Klue and Mario members on the site? I can't find them on Google. It also seems like GT4's site has been hacked, so no luck from them. =/ Is there any way to make those rear subframe mounts on your own?
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Re: How to Know When Diff Subframe & Suspension Bushings are

Postby underscore » Thu May 10, 2018 4:25 am

Klue is the owner of xiiimotorsports, Mario I'm not sure how to get ahold of other than through the forum here. I'm not sure what's up with the website for GT4.
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Re: How to Know When Diff Subframe & Suspension Bushings are

Postby 93celicaconv » Thu May 10, 2018 10:45 am

8BitBrody wrote:Are Klue and Mario members on the site? I can't find them on Google. It also seems like GT4's site has been hacked, so no luck from them. =/ Is there any way to make those rear subframe mounts on your own?

Hmm. The GT4 website work fine on April 30. Even sent in a question on polyurethane bushings regarding hardness specs, and got an e-mail reply from Paul there on May 2. I was glad to see they can make polyurethane bushings with a hardness spec matching that of natural rubber (which the OEM used) - not sure if that translates into equivalent ride characteristics or not for street use purposes.
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Re: How to Know When Diff Subframe & Suspension Bushings are

Postby mpg » Sat May 12, 2018 3:02 am

Suggest checking the sway bar bushings and end links for wear, mine were shot as there was clunks/rattles. Replaced all and no more of either, car rides/handles better, less understeer.
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Re: How to Know When Diff Subframe & Suspension Bushings are

Postby Numbchux » Sat May 12, 2018 6:48 pm

Put some lateral pressure on them with a prybar, and if they deflect too much, they're bad. It can be a difficult thing to diagnose, as they're supposed to deflect a fair bit. The bushings I put in my car were a side-effect of other projects.

IIRC, The rear lateral links in the ST18x chassis use spherical bearings, instead of bushings. I had one of these develop a bunch of play, which caused a number of weird handling characteristics on my '92 ST. I grabbed the lateral links, knuckles, and brakes from a '94 GT, and swapped them in. I chose an ST20x chassis, because they used conventional bushings that could be easily replaced, and adjustable links, instead of cam bolts for toe adjustment. I have swapped this setup onto my '91 GT vert.


When I bought my '91 vert, it had a bent front control arm, so I bought a used control arm, and replaced the bushings while I had it apart (I then did the other side to match).


I'm replacing the rear diff on my Outback this weekend, and when I dropped the diff out, the center section of the rear mount bushings just fell out, the bushing was completely torn, and just floating in there....But 311k miles will do that. Just ordered poly for those, too. Luckily the salt is finally washed off the road so I can start driving my Celica.



IIRC the front control arm bushings I bought came from SuperPro, and the rear was a set from eBay, might have been GT4 (it had to get shipped from Europe, somewhere).
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