Thermostat ratings

From Tune Ups to Oil Changes, maintenance related

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Postby etantshi » Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:34 am

I still stand by my statement and must also add that the TRD thermostat has lowered the presence of knock in not only my motor but many of the 3.4s out there. The all trac is no mr2, and it does not share the added cooling ability that chassis has. I can say that you will probably have a slight increase in emissions and fuel consumption in certain situations, but that is a small trade out for knock reduction. Efficiency and performance do not always go hand in hand (nor are they mutually exclusive). It's going to be one of those things that is debated. If it works for you use it. If not, then don't.
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Postby Shaggz00 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:38 am

I am going to strongly agree with RedCelicaTRD on this one.

I know for a fact from previous datalogging experience, that the T-VIS will open with EVERY touch of the throttle until the coolant temp reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit (at the temp sensor in the elbow). That would lead me to believe that anything below 200F, the ECU will see as 'cold start/warm-up enrichment' mode. Also, since the T-VIS will open with every throttle touch instead of at the normal 4100RPM range, the car might possibly be making less power.

I have a stock thermostat in my 165. I don't know what temp it's rated at, but my car hovers around 200F-210F under normal driving. I've only seen it dip to 199F once (it was 20 below zero that day). That also leads me to believe that the car is not meant to run colder.

Like other people have said, if there is overheating issues (and the thermostat is 100% in good working condition), than installing a low-temp thermostat is just a bad excuse for a cooling solution. A properly functioning cooling system can run hard all day long and not have an overheating issue.

All that being said, we all know that the car runs perfectly fine with the T-VIS opened all the time. A lot of people even remove it. So if that is the only consequence of running a cooler thermostat, then by all means go for it. I also acknowledge that TRD must have created these low temp thermostats for a reason, and not just for a moneymaking gimmick (we all should hope!).

I also have to acknowledge what etantshi said, that even with the colder Thermostat, the coolant could possibly be at normal temp, once it reaches the sensor. I can't verify whether or not this is true because I don't run a low temp stat. So I do understand what you are saying etantshi, I just have no way to know if it's true or not.

As a final note I will say this: (and I am not talking to any single person here, just the general public) If you are having overheating problems, don't buy a low-temp thermostat, because the bottom line is you have another problem!. Buy a stock one, and if you are still having a problem, check your fans (stock are better than those thin-line things), check your coolant level, check you temp sensor, look for signs of a blown HG, look for leaks, check your radiator for cracks or blockage. When you search out and find the real culprit, and you have that "AHA!" moment, you will thank those of us that give you a hard time. Good luck!
Last edited by Shaggz00 on Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:02 am, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby Denver_whiteST185 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:46 am

RedCelicaTRD wrote:Since you really irked me with the idiot comment, I'll help educate you by providing a little reading material. After that, I'm pretty much done with this thread.

You dont have to read much more then the first page on this one:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm

Mr2 owners discuss the TRD thermostat (and the howstuffworks page)
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=247549

Mr2 owners also talk about this all the time, so if you can use the search function go over there and read some more.

Supra owners have the same conclusion
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showth ... p?t=311516

Now I'm not going to waste the remainder of my night posting links (if you owuld like more info, go use google), but hopefully this will help you "understand the concept." And it's a crying shame that all these people are idiots.


well, you forget one thing very quickly. what is the coolant capacity of an MR2? what is the coolant capacity of an alltrac. MR2's have MUCH more coolant in there system than an alltrac, adding to your statement about adding coolant to increase the cooling capacity of your car. their coolant lines run under the car all the way to the front. i don't know what the supra coolant capacity is, but that would be something interesting to find out. from what i understand, supra's have a bigger issue with the rear turbo getting too hot than cooling issues. alltracs have heat issues, thus is why they switched from a scoop to a vent on RC/CS models (along with aerodynamics too, but thats getting off subject)

i guess if you feel you need it, then get it, if you don't feel you need it, don't. my celica will warm up faster than my corolla, and it has a much larger radiator too, although i don't have an acurate gauge to tell what temps each get to under different driving conditions. it also ran perfectly fine everyday last winter when i drove it everyday to work, even during the 3 foot blizzard we got (look at the last photo in my album under my profile). i would have been more likely to cause extra wear by using 10w30 when it was that cold instead of 5W30 like toyota says. BTW, the reason why i replaced my thermostat was because the stock one failed while close, causing the car to overheat within a mile of being started cold.

im sorry that i irked you, and i should have been a bit more tactful.

edited for a wording mistake
Last edited by Denver_whiteST185 on Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Shaggz00 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:57 am

I gotta add one more thing, Denver_whiteST185, I am not disagreeing with you. After re-reading your posts, I do understand what you are saying, too. I guess my previous post was kind of a response to the "band aid" comment, and more of a suggestion to those not involved in this thread.

I think that a TRD thermostat will work fine, I just don't believe it is necessary. I have no proof that the car will go into 'cold start mode' with a low-temp thermostat anyways, so I'm pretty much guessing there (which is probably a foolish thing to do). It certainly can't hurt, just not required.

I guess all in all I come out kind of neutral. I understand you other guys, but I really only agree with RedCelicaTRD. I just wanted to help, lolz

:D
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Postby E_Knight » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:13 pm

personally i like the idea of it opening sooner, especially if it gets to normal running temperature anyway


Didn't think my thermostat question would get so heated
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Postby etantshi » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:38 am

EC Knightrider wrote:Didn't think my thermostat question would get so heated


This is the internet. What did you expect? lol
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Postby $200GT-4 » Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:22 am

The only downsides I was ever aware of on a stock type car running a 160 T-stat was the accelerated wear and possibly richer A?F ratios. I know the diff between 180 and 195 wasn't that much, but when you drop down to 160 (this is all oil temp) things really start to wear out quickly. Also, stock cars always have 195's so they're tuned to run that hot. I don't know when they go into closed loop, but I was always under the impression that a coolant temp of 160 would be walking the line in terms of that. I'd heard people running 5.0 Mustangs saying, on stock electronics, their cars were faster with 195 stats but in my old 350 TBI Chevy truck my truck had noticeably more scoot when running 160 or 180. For wear purposes I fitted a 180 stat, and that's what I try to run all my cars at. In V-8's, coolant also flows through the intake manifold. The cooler the intake is, the cooler the intake charge is, so every car is different. If you're using a standalone it would behoove you to run a 170 or 180 IMO since you can tune your car to be dead on at those temps.
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Postby RedCelicaTRD » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:23 am

etantshi wrote:
EC Knightrider wrote:Didn't think my thermostat question would get so heated


This is the internet. What did you expect? lol



Image

:D
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Postby etantshi » Sat Jan 26, 2008 4:33 am

lol
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Postby Shaggz00 » Sat Jan 26, 2008 6:02 am

RedCelicaTRD wrote:Image

:D


nice :lol:

It's like the one on the right has conceded to the undeniable fate of this thread, and is already mourning the loss. While the one on the left searches desperately for a solution, lolz
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Re: Thermostat ratings

Postby Corey » Thu May 07, 2015 1:23 am

Thought I'd throw some numbers I recently recorded into this thread: I've been using a 71C TRD Thermostat for ~55,000 km in my Ron Davis Rad.

Recorded using TOYOBD1 Datalogger: Cruise coolant temp appears to hover aroung 75-78C. Once stopped at idle, it climbs to 94.8C over the course of 2 minutes, at which point the radiator fan turned on. Within ~10 seconds, the rad fan would turn off and the temperature would read 92C. This would repeat as the temp climbed back up over 94.8.

These temperatures are measured in the coolant neck (correct me if I'm wrong).

Inside the car, the stock temp gauge sits left of centre while cruising (so ~78C I guess), but quickly moves to the middle (presumably around 95C) when stopped.

This was taken 3 years ago while driving through the mountains in the middle of summer. I took it because it was the coolest I had seen the temp gauge dip and it was during a long downhill portion of the drive at idle. It normally sits slightly higher than this.

Image

I just read the BGB coolant system description. The rad fan is designed to activate at >93C coolant temp (measured at the radiator temperature swtich), and it is supposed to stop at <83C.

I'm thinking about splitting the difference and trying the ATS 76C thermostat next.
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