Clutch pedal jams

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Clutch pedal jams

Postby GeKID » Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:15 pm

My clutch pedal on 185rc keeps jaming
i replaced master cylinder clutch kit and reassembled pedal mechanism , but still the same.

it could be problem with clutch cover assy, but clutch isnt slipping, so i have no clue where is the problem.

Anybody had similar problem?
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Postby LegacyofDan » Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:41 pm

clutch slave?

and are u loosing any fluid? u may have a leak?

throwing out ideas :)
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Postby GeKID » Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:12 pm

nope fluid isn't leaking,

idea about clutch slave is worth checking.
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Postby gt4tified » Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:08 pm

Check slave...did you also bleed it properly when reassembling?
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Postby LegacyofDan » Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:10 pm

valid point, u would be surprised how much one lil tiny ass air bubble can do :)
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Postby GeKID » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:39 pm

i think i did proper job on bleeding system, but still will try again.

thx
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:39 pm

What are the symptoms of a bad slave cylinder?
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Postby GeKID » Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:52 pm

i guess leaking is main failure of slave cylinder :)
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Postby siralys » Fri Feb 20, 2009 3:19 pm

I had the same problem with my vw. My pedal just stuck to the floor one day, I could pull it out by hand but it had no pressure at all. It was the slave cylinder, after replacing it and bleeding the system it worked perfectly. When I had it out the seal had blew out completely. I was luicky as hell too because it happened when I got home after a 2.5 hour turnpike drive, It would've sucked if I got stuck there.
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Postby grip addict » Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:58 pm

well... you CAN shift without ever touching the clutch, but its not something you really should do if at all possible. you have to time it just right, and let off the gas before moving the lever. its a trick some of the drag race kids employ, i've always been too nervous of the consequences to try it myself tho.
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sat Feb 21, 2009 6:10 pm

Speed shifting. I had to do it on the AT when my clutch MC went out years ago.

You rev it to a certain rpm and you can pull it out of gear and by raising it to a certain rpm you can pop it into the next gear. Its not that easy to do in traffic but its not that bad on the interstate. Mine happened in traffic... fun experience.
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Postby Simba » Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:30 pm

If the pedal is sticking to the floor, the first thing you should check is the adjustment rod. The lock nut can come loose, and over time the rod will slowly screw itself in, to the point that the return spring is no longer effective and the pedal will stay on the floor.

Unless you've got fluid all over the clutch pedal, which is the only place the master will leak if the seals fail, it's likely the adjustment rod.

I had this happen to me once, and took to safety wiring the adjustment nut to prevent it.

Lots of fast, loud things.
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Postby alltracman78 » Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:54 pm

Simba wrote:If the pedal is sticking to the floor, the first thing you should check is the adjustment rod. The lock nut can come loose, and over time the rod will slowly screw itself in, to the point that the return spring is no longer effective and the pedal will stay on the floor.

Unless you've got fluid all over the clutch pedal, which is the only place the master will leak if the seals fail, it's likely the adjustment rod.

I had this happen to me once, and took to safety wiring the adjustment nut to prevent it.


The clutch master cylinder can [and usually does] leak internally. If it does this, there will be no fluid escaping from it. You will just have little to no clutch.

Furthermore, the slave cylinder can also leak [this will show fluid everywhere] and cause the pedal to stick.

It is possible for the rod to come out of adjustment, but that rarely happens; and seeing as the OP stated he had clutch fluid all over his slave cylinder, that is the place to start.
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Postby txironhead » Sun Feb 22, 2009 1:10 am

CMS-GT4 wrote:Speed shifting. I had to do it on the AT when my clutch MC went out years ago.

You rev it to a certain rpm and you can pull it out of gear and by raising it to a certain rpm you can pop it into the next gear. Its not that easy to do in traffic but its not that bad on the interstate. Mine happened in traffic... fun experience.


It's also interesting to note that a lot of drag bikes do this intentionally by installing a timing interrupter and an air or electric shifter.....with a quick push of a button, the timing is interrupted for a fraction of a second as the air or electric solenoid kicks the gear up. Only use the clutch for launch, push buttons for the rest of the 1/4 mile, WOT. Never installed it on a car, always wondered if I could, but shifters on bikes are simple up/down instead of H-pattern, so the solenoid config would be interesting.
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Postby Simba » Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:46 am

alltracman78 wrote:The clutch master cylinder can [and usually does] leak internally. If it does this, there will be no fluid escaping from it. You will just have little to no clutch.


While the primary seal can fail independent of the secondary on the pedal shaft, I've never once, in several dozen master cylinder failures, seen one go without the other and obvious leakage.

It is possible for the rod to come out of adjustment, but that rarely happens; and seeing as the OP stated he had clutch fluid all over his slave cylinder, that is the place to start.


Wasn't especially clear that something was leaking, as he specifically said it wasn't. Regardless, my point was that the lock nut and rod adjustment is worth checking failing any obvious signs of leakage.

Lots of fast, loud things.
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