From Tune Ups to Oil Changes, maintenance related
Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:53 pm
Vapour lock wouldn't go away by removing the cap if it's the injectors that are locked. Once my Cherokee is warmed up if I shut it off the fuel in one or two of the injectors vapourizes from the heat, if I try starting it before it cools to a liquid I get a misfire until it clears out. If they all locked up like that then it would do exactly what you're describing. I'm not sure exactly how to diagnose or fix it if that's your problem but it's something to look at.
Have you confirmed that your injectors are firing while the engine is being cranked?
Thu Nov 05, 2015 9:32 pm
I haven't confirmed it. Maybe I'll try to get it symptomatic and take out both the fuel line and the injectors for testing.
Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:00 am
I had a problem with start being a little intermittent. I noticed a clamp on one of the intake pipes was off and the hose pipe was not completely connected. Pushed it back on and start start up issue was fixed
Sun Feb 05, 2017 8:35 am
Have you tried to measure the amperage draw when it has been hot and would not start ? It sounds like a starter motor issue, I had it on my Sierra where it would not start, got the recovery to it and they did that and that's how I found that out.
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Mon Feb 06, 2017 12:51 am
Yep I would put betting money on it being the fuel filter. I've had that happen on my 162. It seems the crap in the filter
moves around with the fuel pressure/flow and blocks the filter medium, then settles when the car has been standing for a while, allowing fuel to by-pass it (the crap that is).
By the way there is a fuel pump cut off wire at the MAF. (no air flow = no fuel flow)
Mon Feb 06, 2017 11:47 pm
freddie wrote:By the way there is a fuel pump cut off wire at the MAF. (no air flow = no fuel flow)
Know what wire color that is?
I've been leaning more towards vapor lock myself but will entertain all options.
Tue Feb 07, 2017 12:32 am
185s don't have that, their ECU controls fuel pump shutoff.
As a mechanic, my first thought hearing the symptoms is coil.
But I don't have the car in front of me.
Next time it won't start shoot some starting fluid in it and see if it fires up. If not you're looking at a fuel problem.
If it is fuel most likely either filter, pump or control. Control is easy to verify; when it won't start disconnect the pump and put a test light in the connector. If you have light the control is fine, if not, something's wrong in the EFI system [probably ECU or COR].
Filter is easy to change and is good as preventative maintenance anyways.
Tue Feb 07, 2017 2:01 am
Coil has been replaced and so has the fuel pump.
A shop sprayed some fluid in and got it to start so suggested I replace the pump. Still had the problem afterwards. I can hear the fuel pump running too which would lead me to believe the powers is getting to it.
Where is the filter located on the st185.
Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:14 pm
Fuel filter is located on right hand side of the engine right below where the cruise control box is. You will see it in line if you follow the fuel rail where it starts going underneath the car. This at least applies to the usdm alltracs.
Tue Feb 07, 2017 8:17 pm
IIRC Homologation cars don't have cruise control.
It should be under your intercooler overflow bottle. Down low by the bottom of the L strut tower.
Just follow the fuel supply hose.
For some reason a lot of people have trouble getting this off. Loosen the bracket for the filter, get a wrench on the nut for the fuel line [make sure it's on there GOOD; if you round off the nut it becomes a PITA]. IIRC you can knock off that little bracket on top of the filter [holds the supply line in place] and then put a socket on the nut on top of the filter. Bump it with an impact gun. Don't go crazy, it's not a lug nut, you just want to bump it loose. Or if you're not feeling the impact gun try with a rachet. If find this much easier than using a wrench on the top or the bottom.
A factory pump you shouldn't hear running, a walbro you probably will. But only if the engine is cranking or running.
If the pump is working the control is obviously good. I doubt all 4 injectors [or all 4 resistors or controllers in the ECU] are not working at the same time. Unless the wire that feeds the resistors has a bad connection.
Start with the easy [filter]. Then move on if that doesn't fix it.
Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:48 am
Yeah, no cruise control on the RC.
It does have the larger Walbro pump.
Thanks guys. I'll start there and see what I can find.
Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:54 pm
Sounds like vapor lock to me... But anything could be going on. I had a 93 Camry that did a similar thing. After it was hot I could turn it off and it would fire up right away, but if I waited 5-10 min it would crank for a good 6 sec before it would start.
Maybe have a look at the TPS? may be out of spec? who knows!? my 89 GT-S Celica had some funny starting issues with a bad TPS.
maxaud wrote:Bringing this thread back to life. Been a while since I've been on.
STILL having this issue.
Basically, if I drive any long distance or if I drive the car for longer than 30-40 minutes and I shut it off it wont want to start. Simply turns over and doesn't even sound like it's trying to start.
Was told it may be vapor lock in the fuel system but I still encountered the issue with the fuel cap off.
Seems to be fuel related instead of spark.
Any other ideas as to what this may be?
Thu Feb 09, 2017 5:28 am
Your symptoms sound similar to an issue I had November, 2015. It was an intermittent issue that was difficult to diagnose. . (well, for the most part I was too lazy to find the problem until I was forced to while stranded). I too thought it was a pump. I had spark but no fuel. .
FC Zach wrote:
Last November I diagnosed and repaired an intermittent engine stalling issue (and no start) when my Celica left me stranded in a store parking lot. I suspected it was a fuel pump issue but it was in fact a fuel pump relay that caused all my headaches, I was grateful it was this simple and that I didn't have to pull the tank and replace the pump
I started an emergency help thread and from the help I got there I was able to get the car running. Try this next time it wont start:
FC Zach wrote:Found that I was supposed to bridge terminals Fp and +B. . . did that and car runs. If I disconnect the jumper wire the car cuts off.
Here's the thread:http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=51010
Thu Feb 09, 2017 3:09 pm
I actually replaced the relay too but I replaced it with a used one from a junkyard so it could be the culprit still. It does it get very, very, very hot.nthanks for the heads up.
Thu Feb 09, 2017 3:12 pm
If it's getting that hot then it's probably bad.
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