strange no boost

Ok I'm out of ideas here. Still having acceleration issues with the ever-so-intermittent times where it actually drives like it should (for about 30 seconds or less, then goes back to shit).

In the last 6 months I have replaced the o2 sensor, replaced the knock sensor, replaced the ks wire with a shielded one, replaced the fuse box (under hood, driver's side—separate issue), and yet I'm still getting the check engine light (code 52) coming on when I rev past ~ 1600 rpms, and the car is driving like crap (super slow).

I have no idea what else it could be. Any ideas where to go from here???
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
So, has all the basic stuff been checked? (plugs, wires, dist cap, fuel system cleaner)

I know it may not be related to the code 52, but worth a check.

I would also check the ECU. Pop it open and check for any blown caps.
 
No, haven't checked any of that yet. I'll have to get that stuff checked when I bring it back in. I was just trying to get an idea of where to go from here. Thanks for the answers!
 

___Scott___

Active member
My ST165 had a flaky EFI relay and it caused all sorts of nonsense trouble codes and erratic behavior. Since you seem to be running out of ideas, that´s one to consider.
 

___Scott___

Active member
A new relay bought me some time before it started to act up too. I kept the old relay and when the new one showed signs of flaking out, I grabbed the old one and looked at what was going on inside. That is the most ridiculous relay design I've ever seen. I then pulled the guts out of it and replaced them with solid state electronics. I've been running with the modified relay for a few weeks and so far, so good. The car has never run better.
 

Killtodie

New member
tingfrompradu":1kdlhey6 said:
So I was driving around the block tonight. Boosted in 1st gear, shifted, and then all of a sudden no boost. Turbo wouldn't even spool. It felt like something was clogged somewhere I think is the best way to describe it. In fact, the harder I stepped on the gas, the more the car resisted to go. So I feathered the gas pedal for about 5-10 seconds and boost kicked back in.

Any clue what this could be???


My turbine exploded and got blown out the exhaust. Take off the intake, see if the compressor wheel spins at idle. You can then remove the O2 sensor, stick something in there and feel for the turbine.
 
So the shop I took it to says I have a bad injector on cylinder #4. Any chance this could be due to a bad efi relay, or am I just grasping at straws? I'm looking at $600 just to replace one injector, and $1400 for all 4, so I wanna rule everything out, because chances are better that I'll sell the car than fix it at this point
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
tingfrompradu":2ztygtkq said:
So the shop I took it to says I have a bad injector on cylinder #4. Any chance this could be due to a bad efi relay, or am I just grasping at straws? I'm looking at $600 just to replace one injector, and $1400 for all 4, so I wanna rule everything out, because chances are better that I'll sell the car than fix it at this point

Can you not replace it yourself?

Doubt a relay would be an issue, but you can swap it easily enough.

May also try a fuel system cleaner as maybe the injector is just dirty.
 
I'm not sure if I could. Never tackled fuel injectors before. Is that something someone like me with low to medium knowledge of engines could take on?

And yeah, they dumped a bunch of fuel cleaner in there, so gonna keep driving it and see if that helps at all.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Don't replace the injectors, get them cleaned and flow matched. If you can't find a local place to do it contact Witchhunter, they provide cleaning and flow matching services for a lot cheaper than new injectors.
 
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