CMS-GT4 wrote: I really wish there was a simple how to book to into car electronics.
We did a distribution block on my nephew's Mustang, the PO had about 15 wires running to the hatch where there used to be several amps, crossovers, neons and all kinds of crap. We yanked all but two, used one to pull a single heavy gauge (2ga, I believe) wire for the distribution block and the other to connect to the radio's acc wire for the relay to the distribution block. We mounted everything to the back of his subwoofer box, and after 2 12" subs, 2 6X9's, two amps, powered crossover and several ducted cooling fans were installed, you really had to look to see the wires. We got the positive distribution block at an audio shop, the relay from a local supply store (forget which one), and for the grounds we actually got a "ground strip", the kind you'll find in your house's circuit breaker, from the local hardware store and grounded it directly to a body-to-chassis bolt. Everything was tested for correct voltage and worked like a charm. We did an inline fuse before the relay and most of the electronics had built-in fuses. Later on, we wired in a "bypass" so he could "daisy chain" with his friends when they had a party and have several speaker systems in different cars running off of the same cd. Apparently one of his friends had one of those "welder" alternators on his big truck and had the setup to power several systems with only one vehicle running.
It's not a hard thing to install and set up, but once you do, it makes later electronic addons, not to mention hiding the wiring, SOOO much easier. Also, most things that require a "constant on" need it for flash memory, like the radio settings on your stereo, and they don't require mega amperage, so having a smaller, lower draw block for those might be a good idea, and just set it up with it's own master fuse before
the relay going to the big distribution block.