battery relocation?

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battery relocation?

Postby jonnyboygt4 » Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:17 pm

I was just curious....from what i read on previous posts on the forum regarding this topic...id like to do it on a budget....

what id like to know is....do i have to use the same negative post as whats under the hood? or can i just set it up to ground? another is for the positive cable....can i use say a power cable from a subwoofer (0 gauge)? and just attach it to the current positive cable under the hood?

also would i need to run a on/off switch? i know ill have to make some sort of battery bracket to hold it down...ive got that part figured out....

your help is always appreciated... :D
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby DeeCee » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:05 pm

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Re: battery relocation?

Postby alltracst185 » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:11 pm

Yes
Yes
No switch

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Re: battery relocation?

Postby Simba » Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:01 pm

"Doing it on a budget" is an easy way to burn your car to the ground. Do it properly or don't.

You want a large fuse or breaker very close to the battery, not a switch, and certainly not straight cable.

You can ground it anywhere, but it needs to be a GOOD ground. Shock tower is a good place.

For the positive side, err on the side of too much. I used 0/1 gauge welding cable. I would not trust the small strand car audio stuff.

My setup is here.

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Re: battery relocation?

Postby jonnyboygt4 » Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:48 am

Simba wrote:"Doing it on a budget" is an easy way to burn your car to the ground. Do it properly or don't.

You want a large fuse or breaker very close to the battery, not a switch, and certainly not straight cable.

You can ground it anywhere, but it needs to be a GOOD ground. Shock tower is a good place.

For the positive side, err on the side of too much. I used 0/1 gauge welding cable. I would not trust the small strand car audio stuff.

My setup is here.



thx for your input....ill be doing it right....
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby 2of81 » Sat Mar 12, 2011 10:37 pm

Probablly wont hurt in this application like I have seen in others but welding cable isn't resistant to oil like real battery cable is.
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby DeeCee » Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:13 pm

actually, it is dependant on the insulation. A lot of welding cable is double insulated and I've never had any issues with the use of welding cable as battery cable in the relocations I have done over the years.
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby Simba » Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:53 am

The cable I used is double insulated, sheathed with synthetic rubber. It's impervious to oil and most contaminants.

However, a proper wire run goes through the interior of the car with proper sheathing, and generally doesn't run anywhere where chemicals would become an issue to begin with.

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Re: battery relocation?

Postby klue » Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:04 am

Simba wrote:The cable I used is double insulated, sheathed with synthetic rubber. It's impervious to oil and most contaminants.

However, a proper wire run goes through the interior of the car with proper sheathing, and generally doesn't run anywhere where chemicals would become an issue to begin with.

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Re: battery relocation?

Postby alltracst185 » Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:29 pm

Run the wire like you would for a sound system, through the fire wall and under the carpet :wink:
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby aus jd 2703 » Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:39 pm

do u have to run a earth/-ve cable the full length or can you just run a short earth to the rear shock tower or the floor pan?
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby DeeCee » Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:48 am

short earth to a chassis rail is the best. Or the rail that goes between the strut towers. Strut tower and floor pan are thin metal spot welded to the main chassis rails and don't conduct as well as the main pieces of metal in the car.

Short answer, no need for full length negative cable.
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby jonnyboygt4 » Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:30 pm

can anyone tell me....ive started to look at the wiring for the battery....now...it looks like the factory wiring is pretty small...looks to be either 6 or 8 gauge...?


now i have some 4 gauge wiring already ran for my sub...would this not be good enough to use ?

also the 2 wires that come off the negative under the hood....one is enigine ground and the other is a body ground? so if i were to run the battery in the rear i would just need to make sure the engine was ground.. and could just ditch the body ground as I would be grounding it in the rear anyways ?

just want to clear this up before i actually do this lol....

ive already purchased everything i think i need....new connectors, battery box, gel cell battery....and 200amp breaker ...
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Re: battery relocation?

Postby Simba » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:07 am

jonnyboygt4 wrote:can anyone tell me....ive started to look at the wiring for the battery....now...it looks like the factory wiring is pretty small...looks to be either 6 or 8 gauge...?


Yes, there's a reason: It's short. The longer the distance, the heavier the gauge required.

now i have some 4 gauge wiring already ran for my sub...would this not be good enough to use ?


Is it worth saving $100 or so on the correct cable to have your car potentially burn to the ground?

also the 2 wires that come off the negative under the hood....one is enigine ground and the other is a body ground? so if i were to run the battery in the rear i would just need to make sure the engine was ground.. and could just ditch the body ground as I would be grounding it in the rear anyways ?


One is the transmission ground. You want to connect that point to a good chassis ground. The rest is not needed with the battery elsewhere.

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Re: battery relocation?

Postby jonnyboygt4 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:11 am

now i have some 4 gauge wiring already ran for my sub...would this not be good enough to use ?


Is it worth saving $100 or so on the correct cable to have your car potentially burn to the ground?

[/quote]


I see what your saying...but Ive read elsewhere that people had been running 4 gauge wire without problem....wouldn't the fuse or breaker take care of any issues that would occur preventing your vehicle from actually catching fire? the 4 gauge insulated cable I have seems at least double the size of the factory cable....?

this question is strictly out of curiosity....I have since ordered a 0 gauge wiring kit and will be installing that...but i dont think im gonna go the replace all the grounds route tho....unless of course its easier than I think?

but just to clear things up from that tutorial ...? to replace the starter wire and engine ground what all needs to come off....i would imagine, the air box, and all that stuff in that area?
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