Hey, guys first off I do not have any experience with audio systems, I don't know anything about how the amp/head unit powers the speakers or anything like that. Although with that know I do want to do all this work myself and also rewire the cars audio system. I have been reading everywhere on this forum about replacing this and that, but I have not really gotten what I wanted, so I will ask. I want to replace the entire system 10 setup. I know I will have to buy a new head unit, amp, and speakers. I do have the 8" Kickers in the doors, so that leaves me with getting 8 speakers. The head unit I want is a Alpine CDA-9847. With this what kind of amp will I need to power the 10 speakers and what are good speakers to replace the other 8 with.
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Help with replacing entire System 10
- Thread starter PhilipK
- Start date
omgitsroy326
New member
well you won't really need an external amp unless you wanna go all out. You can survive by say gettin a 4V head unit w/ internal amp and just get speakers all around.
If you wanna go with say a 12' sub then you'll have to get an amp.
I guess my question is... what are you aiming for ? Cuase if you're going to go all out i'd suggest 3 amps.
1 for sub
2 more for the rest of the speakers
Now if you're going to run some seroius bass you'd probably wanna consider not using your mid low range in the back.
If you wanna go with say a 12' sub then you'll have to get an amp.
I guess my question is... what are you aiming for ? Cuase if you're going to go all out i'd suggest 3 amps.
1 for sub
2 more for the rest of the speakers
Now if you're going to run some seroius bass you'd probably wanna consider not using your mid low range in the back.
So the Alpine CDA-9847 head unit will be able to run the 10 speakers? All I want to do is replace all the speakers in the car with new ones. I just want a good sound, nothing to crazy. I just need to revamp this old system 10, its getting pretty bad, skipping all the time, and the static in the speakers it bad too.
omgitsroy326
New member
hmm... i haven't installed my head unit yet...
Usually head units would have
8 speaker wires...
but for this car if it's 8 speaker then it's 16... if you're stuff has something for subs you can probably put your lows from the rears there...
you're going to probably have to merge some wires... i could be wrong. .
but you'd probably wanna check the wire diagram of your alpine.
I'll be doing my head unit in a couple of days.. i'd have to look at the wires and see how it would be connected, but if you're not going to go crazy then you should just run your alpine w/ the internal amp... it should be enough.
Usually head units would have
8 speaker wires...
but for this car if it's 8 speaker then it's 16... if you're stuff has something for subs you can probably put your lows from the rears there...
you're going to probably have to merge some wires... i could be wrong. .
but you'd probably wanna check the wire diagram of your alpine.
I'll be doing my head unit in a couple of days.. i'd have to look at the wires and see how it would be connected, but if you're not going to go crazy then you should just run your alpine w/ the internal amp... it should be enough.
How much money do you want to spend? I think this will greatly effect what people recommend.
If you buy component speakers you can hook most the speakers directly to the head unit, but it will never sound as clear as an amp if you like to turn it up loud and you are anal about that sort of thing. A head unit that says 50watts max, is just that its MAX.. It wont be able to put out 25watts without distorting.. And if your buying speakers that are like 75watt RMS 150watt MAX 25watts isn't going to do crap.
If you want to go all out personally I would go with 3way component up front and 2way component in the back with a nice decent size 4channel amp. You shouldnt need a sub with a set of nice speakers but if you want a sub then your going to need a 5channel or use 2 amps.
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/4268.html
Something like that for the front, you can fit larger then the 6.5" in the doors but I imagine it would sound good either way. Some speaker companies you can order the individual component speakers to make a custom set with 1", 4" and 8". If you didnt know component speakers all hook into a crossover that splits the frequencys into the individual speakers, and the whole set then hooks up like one normal speaker.
Edit-
Reread your post, sounds like your keeping your 8" door subs so you would just need 2 sets of 2way components. I've used lots of headunits all brands and all the built in amps suck for nice aftermarket speakers like I was saying before, but of all I have used my midpriced Alpine (400$) sounded the best when turned up. But I would still get a real amp for your main speakers if you are willing to spend the money.
If you buy component speakers you can hook most the speakers directly to the head unit, but it will never sound as clear as an amp if you like to turn it up loud and you are anal about that sort of thing. A head unit that says 50watts max, is just that its MAX.. It wont be able to put out 25watts without distorting.. And if your buying speakers that are like 75watt RMS 150watt MAX 25watts isn't going to do crap.
If you want to go all out personally I would go with 3way component up front and 2way component in the back with a nice decent size 4channel amp. You shouldnt need a sub with a set of nice speakers but if you want a sub then your going to need a 5channel or use 2 amps.
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/4268.html
Something like that for the front, you can fit larger then the 6.5" in the doors but I imagine it would sound good either way. Some speaker companies you can order the individual component speakers to make a custom set with 1", 4" and 8". If you didnt know component speakers all hook into a crossover that splits the frequencys into the individual speakers, and the whole set then hooks up like one normal speaker.
Edit-
Reread your post, sounds like your keeping your 8" door subs so you would just need 2 sets of 2way components. I've used lots of headunits all brands and all the built in amps suck for nice aftermarket speakers like I was saying before, but of all I have used my midpriced Alpine (400$) sounded the best when turned up. But I would still get a real amp for your main speakers if you are willing to spend the money.
Component means multi speakers that make up a single system basically... On a 3 way you have a woofer for low (6.5-8"), midrange for mid(4"), and a tweeter for highs(1") and they all hook together into a box that splits the frequencys to the appropriate speakers above. So the 3 in the front left would all hook up as one front left speaker, the 3 on the front right would all hook up as one front right speaker. Same thing with 2 way component except you only have 2 speakers a high and a mid-low speaker.
On a regular non component car speaker, each speaker plays the full range but still usually has multispeakers stuffed inside the same hole.
System10 is a component system stock. The stock door speakers are woofers that go with the other front speakers, not subs or speakers that are supposed to work on their own.
A sub or sub-woofer is a woofer that plays notes lower then a normal woofer. Its not a replacement for a woofer because it doesnt play the same frequencys it plays lower ones. So if you just had subwoofer-midrange-tweeter you'd be loosing a whole set of frequencys and music wouldn't sound right.
These days people just stick a buncha subs in and crank it up till the lug nuts rattle off their car though so, you have to decide what you want. What music you listen to will make a difference too..
On a regular non component car speaker, each speaker plays the full range but still usually has multispeakers stuffed inside the same hole.
System10 is a component system stock. The stock door speakers are woofers that go with the other front speakers, not subs or speakers that are supposed to work on their own.
A sub or sub-woofer is a woofer that plays notes lower then a normal woofer. Its not a replacement for a woofer because it doesnt play the same frequencys it plays lower ones. So if you just had subwoofer-midrange-tweeter you'd be loosing a whole set of frequencys and music wouldn't sound right.
These days people just stick a buncha subs in and crank it up till the lug nuts rattle off their car though so, you have to decide what you want. What music you listen to will make a difference too..
Ok it sounds like you don't want to spend a lot of money at all and you are looking for something easy, correct? You can use that alpine headunit to power all your speakers except the 8" ones in the doors.
Behind the headunit the wires go to the speakers, they split on the way and the channel that goes to the (front right) will power the 4" mid and the tweeter. There are resisters on the speakers that will split the highs and lows. So just get a wiring harness and hook this heat unit up to your car, This will greatly reduce the quality of sound in your car.
Now If you also want those 8" subs in the doors to work you are going to need a small external amplifier. I have a kenwood one if you would like it ($40 shipped) its a 35wattx2. To hook this up you need rca cables to give it signal. The amp also needs power from the battery and a ground. and also one wire connecting it to the headunit to tell it when to turn on called the remote wire.
Are your stock speakers blown? I highly doubt as the static is probably from the old underpowered amplifier.
Pm me with any other questions on installing anything as that is my thing. Erik
Behind the headunit the wires go to the speakers, they split on the way and the channel that goes to the (front right) will power the 4" mid and the tweeter. There are resisters on the speakers that will split the highs and lows. So just get a wiring harness and hook this heat unit up to your car, This will greatly reduce the quality of sound in your car.
Now If you also want those 8" subs in the doors to work you are going to need a small external amplifier. I have a kenwood one if you would like it ($40 shipped) its a 35wattx2. To hook this up you need rca cables to give it signal. The amp also needs power from the battery and a ground. and also one wire connecting it to the headunit to tell it when to turn on called the remote wire.
Are your stock speakers blown? I highly doubt as the static is probably from the old underpowered amplifier.
Pm me with any other questions on installing anything as that is my thing. Erik
jprine01":3m28ei3c said:If you want to go all out personally I would go with 3way component up front and 2way component in the back with a nice decent size 4channel amp. You shouldnt need a sub with a set of nice speakers but if you want a sub then your going to need a 5channel or use 2 amps.
This is what I would strongly reccomend, make the system sound like it should. I have MB Quart 3ways with 8's in the front and Clarion 2 ways in the rear with all the crossovers and such. For amplifaction I have a Fosgate Power 550X which at a 4 ohm load is 68X4 and 2 ohm 137x4 I think this should be a good sound when I install. I think a removable 10 or 12" sub would be nice with a decent sized amp but I doubt I will be doing this too soon.
Don't be a cheesedick and run ten speakers off the headunit. I think Toyota used a amp for some reason and it sounds good.