POR15/Rust Bullet advice to coat underside?
- Thread starter toayoztan
- Start date
I'm just about the try the Metal Ready & POR-15 combo.
The instructions on the Metal Ready bottle said to thoroughly rinse with water after applying it and letting it dry for 20 seconds,
which I didn't fully get. So I found this as an fyi.
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/in ... opic=29491
The instructions on the Metal Ready bottle said to thoroughly rinse with water after applying it and letting it dry for 20 seconds,
which I didn't fully get. So I found this as an fyi.
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/in ... opic=29491
TomsGT4":2bgeuehq said:
Cool, thanks for the heads up. I have all the stuff sitting in my living room, waiting to be put on. I almost got done stripping my car out, just have the fuel tank and lines (i've been busy with tests the last 3 weeks, but will be resuming in the near near future!).
I'm still debating if i should do the undercoat before or after my body/paint job...i'm somewhat opting for afterwards. This may sound illogical, but i'd like to ensure the underside is clean as a whistle while I put everything back on, and I can always maske off areas near the underchassis where I would be coating...
Bryan
No prob. I'm glad to see others are trying to keep their cars looking good also 
Little confused. Isn't the cleanest surface (for the underbody) one that is freshly painted & completely cured?
I'd be afraid of spraying the undercoat especially around the engine bay after doing a paint job.
toayoztan":1sn6hmap said:
Little confused. Isn't the cleanest surface (for the underbody) one that is freshly painted & completely cured?
I'd be afraid of spraying the undercoat especially around the engine bay after doing a paint job.
TomsGT4":39701wor said:No prob. I'm glad to see others are trying to keep their cars looking good also
toayoztan":39701wor said:
Little confused. Isn't the cleanest surface (for the underbody) one that is freshly painted & completely cured?
I'd be afraid of spraying the undercoat especially around the engine bay after doing a paint job.
I'm not spraying the por15 on, i'll be applying it with a brush.
What I mean by clean is, I don't want to clean the underside and put por15 on it, then get the car back after a paint/body job to find the underside with dirt/overspray/whatever. However, it wouldn't take much to just rinse and wash the underside either after getting it back from the shop, considering por15 would be already applied and should rinse down relatively easily.
However, he has to fix rust on my driver side rear quarter panel (where the mudflap would go), and i need to replace part of my passenger rocker panel. This would need to get done first before I can por15 the underside and appropriate areas, so I would have to getthe car back from him after going through the body shop...but then i'm not sure if that would hinder the prep process for painting. I'll need to talk with him about the plans. I really don't want to tow the car back and forth twice.
Bryan
Ahh I see. Sure, that makes sense then.
Actually that's what I'm doing right now-- quarter/rocker panels.
It started out as surface rust (at least that's what I thought), and ended up with some pretty good sized holes after blowing it all away with wire wheel.
After thinking it through a little, I don't think I'll use the Metal Ready on the interior of the rocker panel, or up inside the panels, because of the "rinse with water" directions.
I just don't like the idea of spraying water all in there & not be able to get it all dry.
In fact what do you think? Only use the Metal Ready where the bare metal is smooth, where it needs to be etched (for guaranteed adhesion)?
Actually that's what I'm doing right now-- quarter/rocker panels.
It started out as surface rust (at least that's what I thought), and ended up with some pretty good sized holes after blowing it all away with wire wheel.
After thinking it through a little, I don't think I'll use the Metal Ready on the interior of the rocker panel, or up inside the panels, because of the "rinse with water" directions.
I just don't like the idea of spraying water all in there & not be able to get it all dry.
In fact what do you think? Only use the Metal Ready where the bare metal is smooth, where it needs to be etched (for guaranteed adhesion)?
TomsGT4":366emnfb said:
I'll be using Metal Ready for the underside of the chassis and smooth areas. As for areas like the inside of the rocker panels (and maybe inside of rear quarter panel where rear speakers go), I may just use rust converter and the POR15.
I don't like the idea of having to rinse Metal Ready with water, followed by getting it completely dry before applying POR15, for hard to reach areas.
I'll have to look into a good rust converter.
Did you order a new rocker panel? I'm curious that, if you did, if you don't mind taking a picture of it? I'm curious about how the rocker panel comes apart around the door jamb area...it looks to be spot welded in a bunch of places, to which I can drill those out and cut off the rocker panel where needed. Then i'll make the same cuts on the new one and weld it into place and grind down the welds to smooth them out.
Bryan
toayoztan":rejtwor0 said:
Thanks. This is good as it sounds like we've come to a similar conclusion about this.
toayoztan":rejtwor0 said:
There are no holes so large that I need a new rocker panel. They're small enough that I can glass over them without too much problem.
Though, I did buy 2 rocker panels for my Corolla for about $100 (but they were for the 4-door sedan, and I own a 2-door SR5 Coupe).
The reason for this is that unfortunately the rocker panel is welded in place from the factory and there are no replacement parts. I believe this is the case with the Celica also. Possibly all 2 door coupes?
That being said, maybe this might help you...
The rocker sold to me could be used to replace damaged surface: From where the carpet meets the chassis (under the door), wrapping around all the way under, to where the sheet metal comes together at the lip (where people like to jack up their cars & bend it to shit). Although the top half was of a "generic" completely different design (4-door sedan styling).
Fortunately I found that most Toyota rocker panels are the same for the bottom half (rounded part that meets up with the lip under the car). Happily, that's where cars usually rust out. So I ripped the rocker I bought in half and riveted only the bottom half to the car. Fit perfectly. I even used the sheet metal left over to patch other holes.
I do have a picture of that rocker panel (before it was cut) if you want, I can post it.
Now... just need a warmer day to get more painting done ~tomorrow should be 80º here
TomsGT4":1mhw43kp said:
You mention there is no factory replacement of the rocker panel for 2 door coupes...I think I'm a little confused on what you mean exactly. Toyota has the rocker panel available for the alltrac. however, i noticed that it extends back into behind the rear quarter panel. What I was going to do is drill out all the spot welds on the top (where the carpet "hooks on the lip") and drill out the spot welds on the bottom (the bottom lip area where people inappropriately put a jack), then cut the rocker panel straight through where it meets the rear door jamb area (hope this makes sense). I COULD just try to form the metal myself to patch up that hole, but i'm not sure how much of the rest of the rocker panel is starting to rot or is fragile. I really want to avoid the body shop on this one since A) my little brother is a hell of a welder and B) i'm pretty particular on how well things get done.
Yeah could you post up a pic of that rocker panel? If anything, I could just use the new rocker panel and cut out 'plates' from it to replace, if taking out the rocker panel on my alltrac isn't really that feasible.
Thanks for any help!
Bryan
toayoztan":2bo1diva said:
Huh, didn't know that, and sorry I should have mentioned Non-OEM.
I looked into it for the Corolla on a local part supplier computer database and it showed an n/a. I asked out of curiosity about the Celica. He didn't look, but said that they wouldn't make one for that car either, and then something about coupes. Anyway, apparently he wasn't talking OEM and I have not looked into it because I figured it might cost hundreds of $. But thanks, saw the other thread too.
toayoztan":2bo1diva said:
Part of the rocker that needed to be replaced on the Corolla.
This is before I cut the top section off. You can see where the door jamb would work if the entire part was being replace on the 4-door sedan, & it ends at the wheel well.
