Visual Styling, Spoilers, and rims
Wed Apr 09, 2014 4:19 pm
You'll need to rewire the light in the dash.
Wed Apr 09, 2014 4:39 pm
How would that be rewired?
Wed Apr 09, 2014 5:16 pm
Here light bulb are extremely reglemented, you always get pulled over with HID's , blue-ish bulb etc...
So I bought some 240sx S13 projector ''seal beam'' with a H4 socket.
Then I used some good PIAA bulb , I went with the NightTech.
Ive been driving with this setup for over a year and a half now, couldn`t be happier, I don`t blind anybody and I see very far, the beam could be a bit wider , but the high beam fixes that.
Wed Apr 09, 2014 5:17 pm
So that it triggers on the circuit being closed as opposed to load or w/e else it uses.
Fri Apr 11, 2014 3:28 am
I got a reply back from tech support regarding the indicator lamp not working. . .
" I don't know for sure if current draw is the problem, but odds are that is the problem. Measuring the resistance of the incandescent lamp won't be that useful for what he is trying to do. The resistance of the incandescent lamp will change quite a bit when operating, so it won't help to know the resistance when the lamp is off. Measuring the LED lamp resistance will not tell you anything because it is an active device.
If he can measure current, that is a more meaningful measurement. I expect the incandescent to draw something like 4 or 5 amps. The LED headlamp draws only about 2.5 Amps in high beam mode. (and varies a bit over temperature) To make the LED draw the same current as the incandescent will take a VERY powerful resistor. (24 Watts to 36 Watts, best to target a 50 W capable resistor because it will be in the hot engine compartment) These resistors will get very hot and will need to be properly mounted and mesh shielded to prevent them from melting stuff that falls on them in the engine compartment. (or burning you while you are working on something else with the high beam lamps on)
I don't believe it would be necessary to match the current of the incandescent lamp. It may only take another 0.5 Amp to get it working. That would be something like a 10 Watt resistor of 27 Ohms. Still will be hot, but not as bad as the 50 Watt resistors. Still needs to be mounted and mesh shielded to prevent them from melting stuff or burning you. Get a 1/2 dozen of them so you can add them in until the indicator starts working. (each resistor added in parallel to the lamp will add about 0.5 Amps of current) 6W incandescent bulbs can be used the same way, but it will be a little weird having lights inside the engine compartment. An adjustable 50W resistor can also be used, but I don't know how one of those resistors will like living in the engine compartment. (corrosion of the exposed wires in the power variable resistor is my concern)
Do not try this if you don't know what you are doing, it is possible to make some very bad mistakes with resistors of this power range.
It is easier to just add a blue 12V indicator lamp that is wired in parallel with one of the lamp's high beam wires and use that as the high beam indicator. (but doesn't look so good)
I hope that helps you. There is not an easy way to make an LED headlamp act like an incandescent."
Based off what I read in that reply I could use resistors but as I was worried about from the start, heat is going to be an issue with using them. . Using the small incandescent bulbs in-line with the high beam wires seems like an easy fix, I may try this.
Fri Apr 11, 2014 2:49 pm
Using the resistors do add draw just to get an indicator light seems silly anyways, one of the perks of LED's is that you reduce the load on your electrical system.
Sat Apr 12, 2014 3:13 am
I don't see it as silly to try to make the indicator lamp function as it should. I really like these LED lights, they have made a huge difference as I had expected they would and that is the main reason I chose them. The low amp draw is a perk to using these, I completely agree with you there! I just like for everything to work like it should from the factory.
I am not an electrical engineer so I had no idea where to begin, except here of course. I have come to the conclusion that some things are just better left alone and that this is not worth the effort (not the way I operate and would normally say that is just laziness!) however I did purchase the resistors from Radio Shack today but now I am afraid to put these damn things anywhere from the scare of hearing that they reach really high temps so I am at a standstill with this. .
Maybe I am silly
Mon Apr 14, 2014 5:29 pm
The part I'm referring to as silly is using resistors to make it work, they would have to take huge power draws to match up to your regular headlights and if you screw up you could light your car on fire and burn it to the ground.
Having a functional indicator isn't silly, as should be fairly easy to do. I haven't got a lot of spare time atm but I'm sure one of the other electrically inclined members can go through the schematics and come up with an easy fix to make it work.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:18 pm
Thanks! You're right, I definitely don't want to damage the electronics or car. Any guidance on that would be greatly appreciated, I'm sure it may be of help to others as well.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:42 pm
If I get some time tomorrow I will look up the guage schematic on TIS and the headlamp schematic as well. If they list the guage board circuit in the schematic I might be able to help. I'll have some spare time (wife and child free lol) after work to look at it.
On a completely unrelated note does anyone know if the 90mm Hella lamp modules can be disassembled? I'm wondering if HID projector lense glass can be swapped into the less expensive non-HID modules. I have RX350 units sitting in my tool box that may work but I'm not quite ready to buy a new module to cut up.
Thu Jul 31, 2014 7:27 pm
What projectors did you use? Are you able to utilize the flip up still or is it now fixed?
Fri Aug 01, 2014 3:22 am
CSAlltrac wrote:What projectors did you use? Are you able to utilize the flip up still or is it now fixed?
Morimoto mini d2s. They flip up and down perfect and no modding anything on the car itself other then routing the wiring harness and screwing the ballasts in some where
Fri Aug 08, 2014 4:38 pm
I wired up two LED spot lights, 5" 20w CREE, far brighter than stock high-beams with more spread too.
Fri Aug 22, 2014 1:54 pm
My favorite photo from last night.
What do you guys think?
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