Megan Racing Coilovers - Installed and reviewed!
- Thread starter Turbo Lean
- Start date
935motorsports
New member
They are not out yet, which is why they are not listed.
CelicaSoul
New member
GrpAGT4":vjrw1sic said:
thats the swaybar endlink. old ones are near impossible to remove without cutting them from the strut. so now he has to replace the endlinks with stock or aftemarket ones.
935motorsports
New member
noooooooooooooo!
Excellent start for a review. Love the pics. I'm thinking about purchasing a set so this is good info. Maybe I'm a PITA but I was more looking forward to a bit more technical review of their performance rather than a "seat of the pants" perspective...primarily because I'll be autocrossing with the car soon.
Some stats on their compression and rebound, consistency and the variance of these across damping settings would be awesome. If anyone gets a set of these, if they can be shock dyno'd that would be awesome.
Maybe you can write Megan and let them know of the two quirks so manufacturing adjustments can be made for future runs.
Cheers.
Some stats on their compression and rebound, consistency and the variance of these across damping settings would be awesome. If anyone gets a set of these, if they can be shock dyno'd that would be awesome.
Maybe you can write Megan and let them know of the two quirks so manufacturing adjustments can be made for future runs.
Cheers.
935motorsports
New member
You are welcome to try a set out. If you don't like them, send them back! You will be credited the full amount of the set.
gt4tified":2clzofh8 said:
I am with gt4ified here, I think Megan should correct any issues with their prototypes if this is an application-specific set. I hear great things about Megan coilovers and plan to buy a set in the future, but I don't see why produce an application-specific set that requires modification/messing around to fit. I am sure it's easy for them correct.
Cheers,
Timmey
935motorsports
New member
I've read the comments in the first post, but "move this back a bit", does not translate well into the design of a product.
Detailed drawings, with measurements, must be provided, to make any changes.
Now, if we provide measurements of the stock parts, compared to the megan parts, any differences can easily be identified and corrected.
I will forward the comments about the size of the brake bracket, and adding the possibility to having the rear one open, like the front.
Detailed drawings, with measurements, must be provided, to make any changes.
Now, if we provide measurements of the stock parts, compared to the megan parts, any differences can easily be identified and corrected.
I will forward the comments about the size of the brake bracket, and adding the possibility to having the rear one open, like the front.
gtfourdreams
New member
im gonna add this on here because there's not really another place to put this... maybe i'll PM robert too.
on this thread it says 8kg/mm front and 4kg/mm rear, (which equates to about the same as tien ss) but on 935motorsports, it says 18kg/mm and 14kg/mm which scared the crap out of me because that would be like riding on rocks.
on this thread it says 8kg/mm front and 4kg/mm rear, (which equates to about the same as tien ss) but on 935motorsports, it says 18kg/mm and 14kg/mm which scared the crap out of me because that would be like riding on rocks.
Does anyone have some tips on initial setup of these? I'm installing them tomorrow and any time that can be saved with getting the initial height set would be great. I'm also wondering where people are putting their camber plates when they get an alignment. I was thinking of making it so that I have a little bit of adjustment for positive camber and a lot of adjustment for negative camber rather than putting it in the middle.
edmonton_oiler16
New member
as soon as they make a new batch and fix there problems i will buy a set of these
concealer404
New member
TimmyD":1ddaffqt said:
Dead center will give you more adjustment in either direction than you will ever need. Unless you're into cording tires in 100 miles or less.
I set mine to -1.5 front, -0.75 rear, with a very slight amount of toe all around to attempt to help out tire longevity.
I probably wouldn't suggest you do that.
I was planning 1.5 front and 0.5 rear with 0 toe all around (Whiteline specs). I got as close to that with factory gear as possible and liked it. I want to be able to crank in as much negative camber as possible for AutoX too. Do you have an idea of what the camber difference is from one extreme to the other?
Any tips for setting initial height?
Any tips for setting initial height?