Chassis Saver

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Have you used Chassis Saver, and did you like it?

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Chassis Saver

Postby WarTowels » Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:58 pm

Chassis Saver

As a primer or finish coat, Chassis Saver has become the industry standard for high performance protection on all vintage truck and auto underbody surfaces including frames, floor boards, engine compartments, trunk areas, under fenders, fire walls, rocker panels, behind bumpers, etc. The #1 choice for fleet maintenance at hundreds of public works facilities, DOT shops, truck maintenance and fleet refinishing shops nationwide. Extensively used on snow and ice removal equipment saving thousands of dollars in costly repairs.


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I purchased a quart of Chassis Saver from my local Robbins auto parts for just under $40. The current mid day temperatures are not ideal for this product, they are about 10 to 15 degrees to cold. But I figured it may just take a bit longer to dry.

So I followed the instructions which said that sand blasting areas and heavily sanding them made for best adhesion. I sand blasted some of the areas afflicted with rust on my drivers side frame, the other area's I painted I did not sand as the under body around the fender is a pretty coarse area.

My initial impression was, wow, this is going to take forever. The paint lays on thin, and even with effort I could clearly see the red paint below it. So I gave everything a nice once over base coat, and let it dry over night. This stuff takes hours, upon hours to dry. (4-5 with these temps).

Today I put on a second coat, and I can still see red paint through it. Disappointing.

Tomorrow I will put on a third coat and hopefully, that will be that.

It does dry to a very very hard substance, and I think it will work well once it's all said and done, but it's a long process to get full coverage it seems.

Price- A bit high imo, but cheaper than Por-15 by a few bucks.
Would I buy it again- No. It hasn't dazzled me into making me a return customer, I would try POR-15 or Rust Bullet next.
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Postby WarTowels » Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:59 pm

[Product pictures will go here]
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Postby 88st165 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:08 am

Wow good to know b/c I was going to buy a quart tomorrow. Id rather pay the extra $6 and get por15 b/c I was very impressed with it. Good thing my local paint supply store carries it in stock. I asked the owner his opinion on both and he said he sells more of the chassis saver b/c its cheaper.
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Postby WarTowels » Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:15 am

Glad I could help. :D
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Postby Mafix » Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:20 am

my entire unibody is coated in POR15. not 1 problem yet.
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Postby WarTowels » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:32 am

Inspecting my wheel well today, many many days after applying 'Rust Saver"- I tried to break off some drips it had made.

And then, of course a giant piece of hardened 'paint' came off. I flaked off some other areas too. I guess all the areas needed to be heavily scored before application.

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Postby Sifu » Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:30 pm

I don't want to thread jack too much but I'll add some input.

I'm restoring one of my MR2s with POR15 (all underbody or under panels). Easy cleanup and fairly easy application (I'm foam brushing it, I don't even want to try spraying). Clean it up good with a wire brush, remove as much rust as you can, use acetone/alcohol to clean grease/wax/gunk and brush it on. Dries pretty fast but I notice that it seems to coat better in cooler weather.

So far I'm pretty impressed with it. 2 coats is usually enough to cover fairly flat areas (sometimes I can get away with 1; 2 for areas where gravity forces it to collect). Sands easily and even levelling.

It is pretty $$$ but the money seems to be worth it. I will finish my MR2 with POR15 and then try Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on either the Alltrac or other MR2.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=24048&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=24048
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Postby Dups90gt » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:10 am

I also used por15 on my car on the rust prone areas and the rusted areas, i have not seen any rust since, i left it black to see if rust would come back on the rockers, it didnt, even on the part with a big rust hole. I did user theiri marine clean and metal ready and had ground the parts to metal with a wire wheel brush and an angle grinder (never again as bits of the wheel seem to find it self in the weirdest places like your socks and in your shoes days later) then used metal ready and finally the por 15. Downside is it takes a long time to dry before you can put on the second coat and then even longer before you can dust it with primer. Its pretty much your whole day. Wear gloves, rubber ones and use a brush not a sponge as the sponge seems to suck up the por15 and then fall apart and not spread well. Product spreads thick and then self levels flat with no runs and dries very shiny but gets discolored by UV rays so dust it with primer to cut back on your sanding so you can paint or putty it directly. Another down side is if it gets on your skin and you didnt wipe it off right away and dont have their thinner... its there for 4 days.

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i haven't used the other product but por is quite expensive but worth it in my opinion.
TIP: separate what you will use in smaller containers as if you leave too much air in the original container it will dry out, and if it dries on the lid youll have to cut it open as it wont open again... ever! it also wont stick to smooth plastic so you can use a KFC spoon to stir it.
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