EGR Blockoff - Top Notch!

Finally got around to installing the EGR Blockoff on my 165 -







Everything fit and worked fine. I would recommend including a small vacuum cap with the kit to cap off the line running to the valve, just to make it complete.

how's it running? I thought that would cause pinging because the combustion temps rise. Be careful.

I read that it would raise combustion temps as well - However, I'm not terribly concerned. Regardless of what the EGRs intended function was, the computer will continue to monitor the oxygen sensor and run 14.7:1 AFRs and the timing will be the same whether EGR is functional or not, so I doubt that the EGTs will be sky high or even worth worrying about. If it was that important, every Alltrac would be equipped with EGR.

That being said, I'm waiting on a couple other parts before I drive it regularly. I did find out, however, that my EGR was malfunctioning and staying open all the time - Which caused me to foul plugs regularly as well as messing with the idle. The car idles better and runs smoother now with no hiccuping and (hopefully) no more fouled plugs.

EGR only functions in cruising and off power situations basically. When your WOT the EGR is closed.
Basically that means its not going to make you knock more or anything like that. It is there to save gas when your barely on the throttle. ..And to carbon up your intake

Anyway I was going to ask where you bought them, they look nice and thick.

KO Racing - Hence why I posted it in this forum.

The kit was very complete - The only items not included were a vacuum cap for the vac. port and a resistor to avoid the dreaded CEL... Or at least not add to the stack of codes I get.

um actually no, it's function is to reburn exhaust gases for purely environmental purposes, reducing NOx to combat smog. Since being designed into the system, the exhaust gases cool the combustion chamber as a by-product and thus the process temps are raised by leaning the air/fuel mixture to counteract this. It's actually bad for both fuel economy and efficiency, but our government would like us to be able to breathe so they made it mandatory.

As for the O2 sensor, that's not going to save you. Check around, every document around on EGR states that an EGR stuck closed is going to cause knock. The ECU controls the air/fuel mixture as well as the EGR via the vacuum system, if it thinks the EGR is open it's going to make your mix accordingly which will be too hot without the exhaust gases being introduced. www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf

jprine01":8drlluen said:

EGR only functions in cruising and off power situations basically. When your WOT the EGR is closed.
Basically that means its not going to make you knock more or anything like that. It is there to save gas when your barely on the throttle. ..And to carbon up your intake

Anyway I was going to ask where you bought them, they look nice and thick.

Click to expand...

In Closed-Loop operation, regardless of what the EGR is doing, the computer is going to try to make the oxygen sensor switch. This means it will always try to maintain a perfect 14.7:1 AFR. It wil do this whether the EGR is open, closed, or missing.

FWIW, my EGR was stuck open (recirculating constantly, no matter what)... Far worse than it being missing.

For the record,

EGR works by simply adding a non-combustable product into the chamber, which reduces the temperature of the controlled burn. Temperature is what creates NOx, (NOx=super-heated air, air is made of Nitrogen and Oxygen), and EGR is purely designed to reduce combustion temperature. Unfortunately, NOx is a direct byproduct of efficient combustion, and is the only exhaust gas that is directly linked to causing cancer (the others, CO,CO2, and HC just put holes in the atmosphere). Therefor, it seems unlikely that EGR would be used in Closed Loop operation, due to the fact that closed loop operation does not happen during high power (read high NOx) conditions. Closed loop, O2 sensor control, is only used during specific conditions i.e. engine warm, specific throttle position range, and specific boost conditions(warm cruising, warm idle conditions). Closed loop is not used under high power conditions - the ecu has a specific high power/high boost/full throttle map that is used for safety. This map is open loop and generally rich in mixture and low in ignition advance to accomodate for various fuel qualities. This (full throttle/high boost) happens to be the condition in which NOx would be at it's worst, so EGR would be employed. SO-------- if the ECU is open loop, and expecting EGR to be active, it should be providing the appropriate amount of fuel for this condition, which means that if EGR is disconnected the ECU will not be compensating (via closed loop) with fuel for the added COMBUSTABLE fresh air. If the 'full throttle/high boost/open loop' map is safely rich enough than no problem, if not, then ping away baby. Oh yeah, then the knock sensor comes in.....blah, blah, blah,

Meh - if you have a standalone lack of EGR only causes increased power

someone told me that if i was to solder a 1k resistor between the egr plug than it will be ok. i was wondering since i dont have an egr valve, will i be able to pass smog or i wouldnt at all because smog is a big thing here in cali. and right now it keeps on boggin or choking at 3k rpm when i open full throttle/full boost on second gear, is it because of the missing egr valve?

Hey i don't have an EGR on mine as my motor is from Japan. It has an EGR bolted on to pass smog which it did as all the Smog officials here in Cali do is check to see if it's installed. The wires don't even go anywhere though.

However, I do notice that sometimes I get a little bit of pinging. I am wondering if

A: I should get a Japanese ECU to run my Japanesse Motor
or
B: If I should have the EGR system totally installed?

What do you all think?