Picked up a clean camry alltrac

phattyduck

New member
The correct dream car (well, daily driver) is the the ST205/Camry Alltrac hybrid:

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:D

185/70-14 is the stock tire size. You can easily do a 195 for a bit more ground clearance. My white Alltrac has 205/60-14's (or is it 65?) on it, but I can't verify that is good with clearances as I haven't really driven that one (though the previous owner put many Sierra snow miles on those tires). There's not a ton of extra room in the wheel wells, but you should have room for a bit more tire at stock height.

Expect to get 20-26mpg in the mountains with a good-running Camry Alltrac (the regular FWD 5-speed is a 30mpg+ car...).

-Charlie
 

TDISyncro

New member
Amazing car Charlie ! Thanks for the info on the tires. I am putting together an order right now. Already got the Aisin clutch. I'm thinking rear main seal and input shaft for the transmission while I'm in there. I will be doing a complete tune up as well...anything else you can think of while I'm in there ? Anyone have the part # for the input shaft seal ? Thanks

Also, am I reading correctly the 4cyls take ATF Dexron III in the manual transmissions ?
 

phattyduck

New member
The transmission input shaft seal requires complete disassembly of the transmission and generally doesn't leak. You shouldn't need to worry about it. Rear main is a good idea while you are in there. Oh, and use thread sealant on the (new!) flywheel bolts - they are through-drilled into the crankcase and require sealant.

FWD 4-cylinder trans uses Dexron II+ fluid, same as all the FWD autos. The 6-cylinder manual uses GL-4 gear oil. The Alltrac manual trans requires GL-5 gear oil. The Alltrac Auto requires Toyota Type T-VI fluid. Drain with both drain plugs, fill on the front of the trans until fluid comes back out. Expect to use 4-5 quarts, regular non-synthetic is probably your best bet to keep the synchros happy.

Use OEM or NGK ignition components - all others are inferior. Check the ignition coil for crack (located inside the distributor) and replace if you fine anything. The engine is non-interference, so don't freak out about the timing belt. Check all the bushings in the front suspension. The front control arm to swaybar bushings are probably shot - get a set of new loaded control arms on eBay for a good price. If you have clunking in the rear, check the rear diff mount (back side) and the lateral link outer bushings - both of those are the same parts as the Celica Alltrac. Plan on replacing the axle seals and the rear output seal since you are dropping the transmission.

Good luck dealing with the cold. I hate working on cars if its below about 50*F. :D

-Charlie
 

TDISyncro

New member
Update: I have the car on jackstands and the engine/trans about 6 inches off the ground. I hope to separate them tomorrow. I hope the flywheel can be machined as it seems the all trac ones are different from the 2wds and no one has them in Stock locally.

Quick question. The exhaust looks good up to the first muffler but then hell from there on. Are these mufflers available aftermarket anywhere or will a muffler shop have to fab something up? I'd rather just bolt something on.

Thanks
 

phattyduck

New member
I've seen the pre-made exhaust parts on the normal parts store websites. Make sure you get the Alltrac version - the exhaust is 100% different from the main cat back.

If you do get the flywheel machined, make sure they do a good job - it has a stepped face and requires special machining.

There's a pretty good chance that a complete Celica Alltrac clutch/flywheel setup will work for you too. I wish I could confirm that 100% though. (if you have an 8-bolt flywheel, it is very likely to work)

-Charlie
 

TDISyncro

New member
Thanks for the info. Oreillys can special order the rear section of exhaust for $187. I can get the rear and mid section for under $200 shipped from partsgeek. I may just have a muffler shop fabricate something....well see.

Well. I can say without a doubt that was the hardest transmission removal I have ever done.....but I did it. When I got in there I found this....the broken pieces were causing two of the fingers to never release. Oreillys wanted $54 for a 2wd flywheel and $297 for an all trac one. Both plates were the same diameter and thickness but the all trac had a bit more surface area for the slightly larger clutch disc. I removed the dowels from the stock plate and had the plate machined down along with the step so I think it should work just fine. I will not be reassembling the car until next weekend. I'm stoked thats all it was.

Another question. The rear main seal looks incredibly clean with not even the slightest sign of seeping. Should I leave it alone ?

 

CSAlltrac

New member
TDISyncro":1mi4psms said:
Another question. The rear main seal looks incredibly clean with not even the slightest sign of seeping. Should I leave it alone ?
I would not touch it if its clean, despite what some may say, the factory assembly is supior to anything else. Just be sure to thread seal/locktite flywheel bolts. I would also advise against doing a FWD flywheel. It could work and if you go that route I hope you prove me wrong but its a ton of work to get in there, would be a shame to have to do it twice over a bit of cash. I've been there, it can break a man down.
 

TDISyncro

New member
Thanks for the reply. I guess I was not very clear above. I ended up having the stock all trac flywheel (mine was 8 bolt) machined....not the 2wd one. I bought some thread sealant for the flywheel bolts, do you add loctite on top of this ? Thanks
 

CSAlltrac

New member
I read it as you modifying a FWD fly, glad you're not. I've always done thread sealant with locktite behind it with some space between the two. Have never had issues
 

phattyduck

New member
I used thread sealant only on my flywheel bolts. I can't remember what the factory service manual calls for, exactly.

If you do decide to replace the rear main, get the factory part there... I would probably replace it if I was near 200k miles and leave it at less than 150k. In between... I don't know.

-Charlie
 

TDISyncro

New member
Thanks Charlie...I just went with sealant on those bolts. Well its done...two weekends later its up and driving. I think I was just under 15 hours with clutch, reseal of the spark plug tubes, and a basic tune up/ clean grounds/ belt etc. I actually lowered the engine about 12 inches and left it in the bay and pulled the trans/ transfer case from there. It was rough laying on a cold floor but I'm used to wrenching on stuff this way. The clutch seems to be working fine but the throwout bearing that came in my AISIN CKT-015 kit was not the right one...I'm wondering if someone switched it out. The one in the kit did not fit over the sleeve inside the bellhousing. I got the correct throwout bearing from Oreillys (National Brand) for $66.00. I will try to contact the company I got it from and see if they can do anything.

Clutch seems to be working fine. The exhaust system came from Parts Geek today but I did not have time to install it. I'm curious. Every car friend I know says no way...they didn't make a camry Alltrac. Were all VW/ Audi heads so that doesnt mean much. Does anyone know production numbers on these things ? We are getting snow this week. I hope to get it smogged and see how it does !


Thanks. Any word on the production numbers would be appreciated
 

smog7

Moderator
phattyduck":q5rhji6h said:
The correct dream car (well, daily driver) is the the ST205/Camry Alltrac hybrid:

942059_10151463759508731_1237073983_n_zps09bbfd40.jpg


null_zpsd61a1eea.jpg


:D

185/70-14 is the stock tire size. You can easily do a 195 for a bit more ground clearance. My white Alltrac has 205/60-14's (or is it 65?) on it, but I can't verify that is good with clearances as I haven't really driven that one (though the previous owner put many Sierra snow miles on those tires). There's not a ton of extra room in the wheel wells, but you should have room for a bit more tire at stock height.

Expect to get 20-26mpg in the mountains with a good-running Camry Alltrac (the regular FWD 5-speed is a 30mpg+ car...).

-Charlie


Did Su at agp do the swap? Looks familiar.
 

New Guy

New member
Every time I see a red 'Trac I get a stiffy. I'm still completely weirded out that mine seems to be the only one ever to be both tagged and badged as a DLX, not a DX.

Every time I see Charlie's 'Trac I get a bigger stiffy. HHHHHNNNNNGGGGGGGG that car. Made me scrap my innocent hopes of a Redtop 'Trac (which means I'll probably buy his if he sells it...... Yeah, that's how Camry All-Tracs work) and I'm shooting for ~450whp with mine eventually. Hoping to pull the trigger on that this year.
 

TDISyncro

New member
I'd like to thank everyone who helped in this thread. I drove it 45 miles back up to Tahoe this morning without issue. The thermostat started to stick open but I'll fix that today. I was able to get the cali plate YES AWD for it so my lady doesn't have to argue with the chain control guys about it being all wheel. Thanks for the help !

ps - If anyone has a set of factory hub caps that would have come on this car I'll buy them. Thanks
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phattyduck

New member
I've had a few 'conversations' with the chain control guys... And I've had highway patrol follow me, waiting for me to get stuck. Hehehe... Doesn't happen as long as you are smart about where you go.

Come to think of it, I've never put chains on one of my own cars. Yay AWD...

-Charlie
 

TDISyncro

New member
Just a heads up. The pick n pull in Carson city has two pretty clean camry all tracs at the moment. Also, are the pre 90 bumpers made of a different material ? The rear one on mine is very wavy. It looks to me like they changed to a different material in 91 that didn't get wavy with the heat....is that correct ?
 
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