i will be getting good pics of worn components and adding them to my website. these are to show problem areas with the MR2 in regards to poor shift quality, grinding, etc.
for starters i added pics of the shift lever bushing (
ORDER NEW ONE HERE!! ) and a worn one to ogle:
http://www.chicoraceworks.com/gallery/shifting
the shifter linkage bushing can be purchased new through Toyota if worn out bad enough or turned 90 degrees to get the better sides in contact with the "groove". when i turn these or replace them i lubricate (synthetic bearing grease) liberally wherever the bushing is touching something to minimize future wear/friction.
i will be adding more pics when i find some good, worn shifter cables to compare also worn clutch pedals, etc.
for shifter cable bushings there are several options available:
http://www.chicoraceworks.com/gallery/shifting/worn_cable_bushing
1) Speed Source brass shifter bushings
2) CRW spherical bearing (replica of Phoenix Power cable bushings)
ORDER HERE!!
3) roller skate bearings (search!)
for the clutch pedal itself when worn out:
1) buy new pedal from toyota
2) have hole welded up and redrilled
3) drill larger for bearing mod (
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=234491 )
4) order CRW solid roller clevis kit = end of problem
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=417544
for the clutch master clevis when worn out or broken:
1) buy new from toyota
2) buy new clutch master which comes with new clevis
3) buy CRW solid roller clevis:
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=417544
the clutch master and slave cylinders do need replaced from time to time and can be worn out and not leak (they do it internally). best solution is to buy and replace both at same time and not rebuild them. they don't cost much... rebuilds generally don't last long or are done incorrectly. so buying new makes the job done right the first time.
bleeding the clutch system properly is another issue most folks have. i use the mity vac and suck the fluid through the entire system and end up with a nice, stiff pedal every time. there are times when it is difficult to bleed with the mity vac but sometimes pumping the clutch pedal manually a few times (slowly) will help jump start it.
as for trans fluid my personal recommendation is as follows:
S54 (NA trans) *ALL* redline shockproof superlightweight -- can get away with lightweight shockproof also
E153 (turbo trans) *open diff, OEM LSD or Quaife LSD* redline shockproof lightweight or can use heavy weight shockproof in warmer climates but i prefer the lightweight.
E153 (turbo trans) *clutch style LSD IE: Kaaz, TRD, cusco, etc)* standard non synthetic 75/90 (GL4 or GL5) gear oil with friction modifier AKA LSD additive ** have heard of someone using the redline shockproof lightweight with the ford LSD additive and having no chattering issues**
as far as other trans fluid recommendations you can search for "transmission fluid" and see what I and others have to say about various brands... just i recommend what i have used for 10+ years with no problems and offers buttery smooth shifting.