Project CMS

CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
The lawn was about a foot tall. Took me a couple hours to do the front, which is not big. It was just too much grass for my mower. I think it will go much quicker next week.
I picked up a craftman mower with a honda engine. It was $340, so it was not bad.
 
A

aus jd 2703

New member
hey cms are you still running ha's? if so how do u find them on the street?
firm or bone jaring? im trying to decide between rebuilding my ha's (bought them leaking and never used them) or to buy a new set of super streets?
thanks love the new paint
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
My advice, is since you have the HAs, get them rebuilt to your specs. This would also give you the option to choose new spring settings. If you provide Tein with all the data for your new build they can do it. My current level is pretty harsh. I don't need mine rebuilt, but I will be likely getting the lower spring options for the current build.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I am trying to order the tierod flip kit,
http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=843
But their site is not letting me. I am going to slowly assemble all the parts for my new hub setup. I need to do the bearings on the rav4 spindles, then get a rav4 ball joint. All that will be left after that is doing the flip kit and fabricating my new brake setup. It might take me all summer to get this all together, but It will be all worth it once I do.

EDIT: I emailed them and placed my order. You can not order through the site.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have been looking into trim restoration. You can see thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=41088

I have had a problem for a while, I need to get to the root of it. It only happens when I back up, and it only happens when I first move my car from being parked. I get a loud strong pop from what feels like a front axle. I had replaced both the front axles, and I have been working on this project for so long I am not sure when this started. So is there a way to determine if the axle or something has a problem? What other parts can produce such a loud violent pop? I can post video if I need to.
 
Landon

Landon

New member
are you able to have someone look/listen down by the tranny when you do this? would it happen if you were in reverse to begin with when you parked? thing that comes to mind is that maybe your reverse idler gear is somehow not working right...
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
The car is always parked in neutral. It only seems to happen when I back up. Truman priest might come by next week and give me a hand. I ordered my wideband today. I went with the aem controller and will put windows on my macbook so I can use the AEM logging software.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have started looking into the AC stuff again, and I left my battery on the charger for a while during me doing yard work. I ran it for 10 minutes after the charge and it was running very different. It did not sound bad before, but it sounds better now. I have been thinking about my plug fouling issue and it came to me after this. For over the past couple years the car has been operating on a near dead battery. Since the car was only started every couple of weeks the battery was usually dead and I would bump it off to run it for a few. Even when the car had been at the painter and I had a new battery, it sat and drained. Its a small odyssey battery. It made me wonder if a weak charge can effect the ignition system enough to not give it a full burn like it should. I hope it is something as simple as this. Currently the car has code 54 due to the circuit being made loose by the first guy who tried to paint the car and my wideband will be here next week sometime. First I will try and get some reading with the code 54 to see if it is true that the ecu dumps fuel to try and reduce temps, and then I will see how everything is after sorting out the code 54. I decided I am not going to do the ground fix for the level sensor. I am going to run the level sensor since it will warn me if I have a leak in the system. Then I can see where I am at and how to fix it.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
So when taking o2 readings does the engine need to be under load? Will I need to drive around or can I do it in the driveway.
 
T

Trumanpriest

Member
My understanding is that you will have different readings at different load based on your fuel maps. You will want drive fairly aggressively to make sure of your AFR at WOT. I'm no expert though so hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
So my wife's PC isn't going to cut it. It overheats and has no battery life. So I am going to use my macbook. I was going to have to dual boot, but I found out about this emulator VirtualBox that will allow me just to add on a windows OS. So when I get time I am going to setup my laptop and see if I can get some readings. I installed the wideband in the car, I think I need to come up with another way to power it because once I put the dash and stuff in I will not have access to my power terminals.
 
Z

zblu81

New member
check for a sticking caliper with your "popping" issue. My S-10 p/u does the same thing and I know the caliper is sticky and it doesn't have an axle up front.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I will check that.

I decided I am going to focus on one thing at a time now. I tend to take on too many projects and never finish one. The priority project will be my air/fuel issues and why I am fouling plugs. Then after that I can worry about A/C as its in the 90s here now and I need A/C to drive around.

So related to the wideband I had to order a cable. I order some sort of chip adapter and it does not seem like a solution for reading the wideband. Its sort of an over complicated tool so I ordered the kind of setup everyone else uses to keep things simple. Hope to have it by wednesday so I can sort this issue out.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I got the cable in today but I am trying to figure out how to get virtual box to forward ports so I can use the serial adapter. Anyhow, I hope to get some readings once I get over this last hurdle. Should have just bought one with a gauge, but I wanted the better range of readings.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have wasted enough time trying to get these serial ports to forward through virtual box. Screw it, I am going to use bootcamp and just install windows in another partition. oi.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Well I have spent a lot of time getting the pc sorted out today, but I think I have a short somewhere in the system. For whatever reason I may have burnt out a fuse. I was going to save it till I was done with the O2 tests, but I think I need to redo all my wiring now. I know my code 54 setup got mangled by the first painter, so I think that is the culprit. I will double check everything to be sure though. Sigh.
 
M

MWP

New member
CMS-GT4":2my6e20k said:
So when taking o2 readings does the engine need to be under load? Will I need to drive around or can I do it in the driveway.
Click to expand...

Seeing this question is a bit of a worry... you should do some research on general engine tuning theory if you need to ask this.

You dont "take" EGO readings.
With a in-car installed wideband, you drive around as per normal and make sure the EGO readings are appropriate for the conditions at that moment in time.
Dont log the EGO data (its meaningless unless you also log everything else the ECU is doing).... just watch the gauge.
 
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