Project CMS

CMS-GT4

Active member
I went back and picked up the roll of aluminum and some nice metal snips. I will paint it tomorrow since it will be in the 70s then I can figure out how I am going to mount it. I have a few things to order than I am going to be done with the car for the year, and I will pick back up in the spring. I had been watching my water temp gauge as well during these wot runs. 125 degrees is the hottest it got. The weather is in the high 60s or so.

I am almost done with my boost controller. I just have a little tweaking to do. I want to run about 15psi on high boost. This was a good guide to setting up the controller.

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo-guides/8 ... ec-ii.html

Please note: This writeup was taken from an evolutionm.net thread. It is NOT specific to SR20s but will help set you on the right path.


Before you begin, you should have an idea of what you're aiming for. For EVOs, 19psi (131 kPa) seems to be a safe setting based on what people on the forums have found since it is close to what the stock boost pressure is, yet there is an increase in power due to the Greddy unit keeping the boost close to 19psi while the stock boost tapers off as the RPMs increase. I will henceforth refer to what you're aiming for as "desired boost pressure".

Definitions and things you need to know before you start:

SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).

GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.

START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).

WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).

LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower to when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR SET VALUE MINUS 4%.

PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.

LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.

Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.

Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.

Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.

The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:

1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.

2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.



The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Added to faq. Today I installed my intercooler overflow reservoir. I also worked on the underpanel some. I am hoping I can keep it from being noisy. I still need to trim it up some. I am hoping it will work out.
Planning a cruise this weekend, so hopefully get some photos in.
photoukz.jpg

photoob.jpg


Also in celebration of 100 pages here is a gif of the stages of my car.

71079898.gif
 

Landon

New member
dude... that splitter looks soo sick. what did you get for the two side pieces? cause i would love to get those and then build a aluminum piece like you show that continues into a skid plates basically under the engine. i think it'd be hella clean.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I got the last set from from the guy who got them made in the UK years ago. They were made for our cars. I had intentions of making a full lip from them, but I am afraid they are going to get broken on my driveway, thanks to the way they do water drainage here. I am still debating on what I am going to do, just because of that.
 

Hotrodhendrix

New member
Those would be pretty easy for a buddy of mine to make and sale but he would of course need enough interest. Looks great man. Ohh and I forgot your car was red before. :twisted:
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Its not just my driveway, I think I would have to plan my trips as well. Most stores here have that same weird drainage in front of their drives plus a slope at the entrance. I am amazed how hard it is to get places considering how damn flat it is here. I really mis driving back in knoxville. I think I will make a road trip in the alltrac there maybe next year just to go driving.

Yep it was red. It was perfect. Even though it turned out great, I would trade all my mods to get the car back the way it was when I bought it. It was showroom new then. I supposed one can not go to hell and back Unscathed.

So a few notes. It looks like with the ASI rad I get about 188 degrees for normal temps. I am trying to get a fix on my fuel economy as well. I have gone about 215 miles on 3/4 a tank. The first 1/4 was largely at WOT while tuning my boost controller. If I can get 300 miles a tank I would be happy. I found that when my fuel light comes on I have used around 14.9 gallons. So if I can 300 miles in that range I think the car will be acceptable.

I only have a couple of things I am doing this year. I want to make sure the window washer works, and a horn. Everything else goes to the 2012 backlog. I have one month till I got to Malaysia/ Japan, and I have some dental stuff to do, school finals, as well as release another game before I go.
 

toayoztan

Moderator
CMS-GT4":3nq1d0pc said:
Anyone know of any good shops to hunt for parts in Tokyo?

I think I am going to do this LED mod so I can get the brightness back into my dash. I am curious how hard it would be to do the temp controls as well.
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=21981

There's a huge thread with contributions by Simba, JustJoe, and myself regarding LED setup in the gauge cluster and temp controls, where to get them, which to get, etc.

I'll try and find it later if you don't find it.

Needless to say, regardless which LED lights you get for the HVAC, it isn't that great due to uneven lighting. I plan to make a custom LED setup for the HVAC to get nice bright even lighting.

Bryan
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I am wrapping up finals and an update for our latest iphone game.
The car came a long way this year. I will be picking up next year once I get back. I will be in Malaysia and Japan. If you get bored you can follow on twitter and instagram. I will be sharing some of the stuff I run across over there.
www.twitter.com/noritoy
http://instagrid.me/noritoy/
It snowing right now, so there I hope these tires can get me through the next couple days of classes before I go.
photo2fh.jpg
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I am back from Japan now. A bit jet lagged, but here are some photos from my trip to Japan, Singapore and Malaysia that are mostly car centric.

P1050577.jpg


P1050578.jpg


P1050582.jpg


P1050600.jpg


P1050628.jpg


P1050629.jpg


P1050633.jpg


P1050640.jpg


P1050352.jpg


P1050400.jpg


P1050401.jpg


P1050402.jpg


P1050403.jpg


P1050422.jpg


P1050413.jpg


P1050419.jpg


P1050423.jpg


P1050467.jpg


P1050455.jpg


P1050475.jpg


P1050479.jpg


P1050480.jpg


P1050519.jpg


Turbo charged.
P1050533.jpg


P1050177.jpg


P1050198.jpg


P1050219.jpg


IMG_2945.jpg


IMG_2969.jpg


IMG_2971.jpg


IMG_2974.jpg


IMG_2989.jpg


IMG_3009.jpg


IMG_3010.jpg


IMG_3011.jpg


IMG_3012.jpg


IMG_2888.jpg


IMG_2894.jpg


IMG_2892.jpg


IMG_2524.jpg


IMG_2479.jpg


IMG_2431.jpg


IMG_2426.jpg


blogger-image--858361652.jpg


blogger-image--1585622135.jpg


blogger-image-387058444.jpg
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have seen as many caldina gtfours this trip as I have seen celica gtfours my entire life. They are very popular in Malaysia.
 
Top