Project CMS

CMS-GT4

Active member
Yeah, I might worry about it more if some reason I have to drive more. We usually take my wife's car. Once I am done with my brakes, I we are planning on selling the Z and her CRV to get her something new. We usually drive her car everywhere. My car is only driven for fun or for me to go to class or errands. Once the baby comes, then I am likely only driving it to take the kid somewhere or autox events.
To give my eyes a break in between work (till I get glasses) I am doing small things on the car. I am going to put in my door screws today. So that wraps another item up. I am going to use some magic eraser and see what I can do with some of the plastic tarnish. If the weather stays like this for next week I am pulling the seats out to steam clean the carpet. I may order the stuff used to restore these seats to fix my side bolsters. My seats are in pretty good condition less that.
viewtopic.php?f=49&t=41950

Due to my driveway I have kept my splitters off. Since I was working on a new lip idea someone offered to buy them. So they are going to a new home. I look forward to someone actually getting to use them. Before mailing them off I took some comparison shots with my lip. I think I will mess around with a heat gun and see if I can get this camaro lip mounted up. I will likely paint it myself. Paintscratch.com sells spray cans of oem paint. I am thinking of getting that and the rubberizer primer to do my own coloring. I am thinking I will either use an epoxy to join the lip or rent a plastic welder.

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GT4times2

Moderator
They both look nice, but prefer the PS with the RPF1s. They are cheaper to replace, and easier to source than Volks, unless you want to go Varrstoens or Rotas. They look just like the Volk TE37s. I know Varrstoen has a nice variety of sizes/offsets for their 5x100 patterns. Here's the site.

http://varrstoen.com/blog/
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I saw those. I think they actually look better because you can get the nicer face in a smaller size that volk only sells with the super wide sizes. I want light weight though, so its going to be authentic. I am trying to keep my unsprung weight as close to stock as I can while increasing my grip. 16lbs wheels + 23lb (245) tires puts me right at what my adrs were at with a 205 wide tire. The question will become if I keep the sportmax wheels. I like them, and they suit the car. I guess I will just wait till I do my brakes to decide. Then I sell the Z.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have not looked at them. After price shopping, I am likely ending up with a yellow top again.

So I am trying to decide what to do with my suspension. I can either get softer springs, or I can see if I can trade it for something softer. I sort of would consider trading it plus cash with someone's stock suspension housing so I can make one that suits my needs.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Not sure yet but it would likely be enough to build another suspension. I paid around 1600 for them and they are still pretty low milage. I would even consider trading for a set of tein ss just to keep things simple.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
That is something I might consider. It would be nice if it was with someone closer though, cause its going to cost some bucks to ship that far. I am going to mess with them some more once my new battery gets here then I will start figuring out what I want to do.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I found this. I am going to play with my settings a little more and see what I can come up with before I decide they are too harsh for me.

I have a set of Tien HEs on my Nissan 240sx and they are great. Do you drive an FC or an FD? The spring rates for the FC are the same as the rates for my s14. The FD has a higher rate that is pretty stiff for the street.
Either way, its all about damping. When I first put in the suspension I thought it was over the top and would skip across the road when I hit bumps. It was because I had the damper too soft! Is sounds backwards but you need to control that really high spring rate. I run a setting of 7 clicks back from the hardest setting on the street. Some people even say that you can wear out the dampers faster if you run them too soft. I don't know about that but life was much better after I went from the Tein sugested setting of 11 clicks up to 7.

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=198874
 

athousandleaves

New member
Where I live the roads are very rough so I completely agree with what you quoted there.
I found that for normal driving I had to set the dampening at a split ratio like 6 clicks for the front and 10 clicks for the rear and the driving was much more bareable.

I have a feeling that driving on full hard for a month or so was what finally gave me a slipped disc :(

Have you looked into just buying different weight springs from Tein? 6/4kg or 4/4kg might make it more daily drivable over the HA's. A friend of mine got the BC coilovers in a 12/12 setup, his car isn't running yet but I have a feeling he might regret going that stiff!
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Tein said I can go down the 8kg front and 5kg in the rear w/o having to revalve them. That has been what I planed to do, but I am trying to make sure that is my issue before spending the money. I need to check and make sure my front sway bar isn't bound up, then I am going to adjust my dampning to see if that resolves it.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
So the battery came in and took the car out for a test. The HAs have a range of 16 clicks. Running on their suggested settings is too rough. Running on 1 does not dampen enough. I am running on 12 in the front and 14 in the rear. Its been a while since I rode on A firmer setting. The car did feel different. Its dealing with the bumps better though. I think I may be a click away from the optimal street setting on these. So I will be able to likely make them work for me. There is a chance I may go down to a softer spring still, but I think I can make these good enough for the road as is.

I started steam cleaning my carpet as well. Its looking much better though I have a couple of stains I need to figure out how to remove. One rust colored one in particular.

I also cut my lip in half today. I purchased a diamond cutter for my dremel to get a clean cut. This lip is a lot wider than my car, so cutting it in half will make it easier for me to get one side sorted out and centered then I can make a final cut on both sides to make it meet in the middle. I am still debating on what method I am going to use to mold it. I was going to mount it with its natural curve but I think that the dip part is too far to the sides. This is if I was also going to cut the length of the lip.
NOTE: The sides are higher than they should be, but I had no one to help hold it so its resting on my wheel spoke.
Instead I think I am going to use a heat gun to get a new curve out of it that moves the dip towards the center and keeps me from having to cut the lip anymore. I can make it fit this way by holding it, but I think if I can use a heat gun on it I can prevent any future deformation. I need to go get some screws for mounting then I will start trying to figure this out.

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EDIT: Also this lip does not look bad on the back of the car, and it actually fits the curve better. I would only bother if I ran across another for a decent price.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Here is the amount of bend I took out with a little work from the heat gun. I can now wrap it on the bumper. I need to pick up some screws then I will see if I can git it. The right is the new curve.

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CMS-GT4

Active member
I should have snagged one before I started bending it. I may give it a try if I don't have to bend it too far back.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Here you go. I had no one to help so I had to hold each side with one hand. A notch would need to be cut out for the exhaust.
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CMS-GT4

Active member
So anyone have suggestions for getting power to something near the head interior light? I was going to tap into it, but I am not sure if the power that goes to the motor is continuous to the motor and interrupted by the relay or switched on 12v. I was thinking of tapping into my sunroof motor to power my radar detector.
Edit:
Here is a bgb page. It looks like its switched to the w-g wire then to the run roof relay.
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CMS-GT4

Active member
So I was messing with the lip tonight and decided to compare it to the pics. They only cut it on the center, not on the ends as well. I was scaling it up tonight and it ends in the same places. I think I want to mess with the end cap though as it has a bit more curve to it. I imagine some heat gun magic can square it up. Once I go get some mounting hardware I am going to get it fitted so I can cut it then paint it.

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