Project CMS

CMS-GT4

Active member
I looked into them, and compared to the guides they are authentic. I am sure the guy expects more for them, but they are a pick up only auction. Those usually don't end well for the seller and its been at its starting bid of $99 since it started. Not to say that it could get bid up there. I have passed on a lot of great cheap wheel deals because of the whole pickup only issue, though there were some nice OZ cronos HT a few hours away I almost got since they were so cheap. I passed due to 18s.

I was talking to the wife today and she thinks I should not bother with the seats. Do I really need another project? Likely not. I am also not sure I will save that much money in the long run vs just buying something new. Right now my focus really needs to be designing my new ball joint setup.
 

underscore

Well-known member
If you wanted to do a custom fabric/colour setup it might be more worth it, if nothing else they'd be something to tinker with until you get the sewing sorted out.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I aksed the seller a couple more questions and it looks like the recliner is also busted on one of the seats. They sold for $99 but I am fine with getting a new set down the road. I spoke to Weaver, who sells TTE parts about a lower ball joint. He thinks one used to be made, but would need an order of 200 units to get it made again. Needless to say I am back to getting something fabricated. Looks like the weather is warm here again, so once I get some parts in I will do a little work here and there. I am hoping to get my shirts back online soon. Things have just been crazy lately.
I also ordered a new chassis bgb since mine was stolen.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have been trying to reach a few companies about interchangeable or custom ball joints. I hit up super pro, moog, and some places that make lift kits for rav4s. I have also been trying to find vehicles that the celica ball might fit, but I have read toyota uses a unique taper. Not sure how true that is or not. I need to find out the taper. Right now the simplest solution is having an adapter plate made that allows me to fit an extended moog bal joint for a domestic. I just have to ream the spindle. I was hoping to avoid that but domestic ball joints run 14-20 bucks each compared to even oem prices. So I might be able to correct my geometry and create a cost savings.

I also picked up a copy of the chassis BGB to replace my stolen copy. $35 shipped on ebay.
a72ed580a5f911e2a15322000aa80445_7.jpg
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
That bastard painter who screwed me on my car. He slammed my fiber glass splitters and never returned my bgb. I cut my losses since that was the only thing I was aware I did not get back.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Not much time for anything these days. I was just happy to take the car for a spin last night. Left my work in gaming to focus on my own stuff. Planning a new compressor and new Ball joint and then I will just enjoy the car.

cmsparkpark.jpg
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Thanks. I actually did some more work to it. I think I'll post the revised version to my DA account.
http://noritoy.deviantart.com/art/Gtfou ... -372689813

I am revisiting my battery relocation. I ground to the chassis, but not to the engine. I am thinking of running an additional ground.
I currently run two big bolts through the rear floor pan to hold my metal tray down. I did not think of using anchor bolts like the stock one does. I am going to look into some short j hook bolts and likely move my battery to a location to maximizes my space in the trunk and lets me remove it as well.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install ... trunk.html
 

underscore

Well-known member
I don't think there's much point in running another ground back to the engine bay, I mean the entire body is a ground after all.
 
it is a good idea to run a wire between the block and the negative terminal, as the return path for the spark/ignition circuit is much better achieved through a direct copper path, as opposed to a steel path, with many contact points
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
From what I have read starting is better with the ground to engine. I know once I added several ground to the engine the car ran considerably better, so I think there is something to this. Right now I am just going to get my charging array setup, I will extend the ground later on. I will likely just run two on the chassis for now.

I found my future wheel if they make proper offsets and widths in 17s.
http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/gtf01.asp
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Thanks. I am starting to do a few things to it before I get too busy and it gets too hot. I was looking at the Sard exhaust and I think I can remove the silencer mechanism. Its held on by 3 bolts in the exhaust tip. I am curious how it will drive with the device removed and how much louder it will be.
I also noticed apexi makes a similar silencer. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/APEXI-ACTIVE ... 0816634219
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I removed the Sard's silencer last night. Before doing so I got video so there is a sound comparison before and after.
The outlet was usually 1.4" unless under heavy load. The tip is 3.8." I think the silencer was too restrictive. Now that its gone I am going to adjust my boost controller.

Video of the comparison.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGti7U2P ... e=youtu.be

Camera setup.
fe6b20d6d09e11e2975a22000a1fb425_7.jpg


Fully extended tip.
a098bf4ad22411e2992f22000a1fb823_7.jpg


The silencer.
87ccae18d30a11e2882622000a1f985d_7.jpg
 
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