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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:45 pm

Thanks. So my epoxy came in for my lip. I am going to fix it up today. I just need to get an alignment and a couple things welded, and I am good to go. I am hoping this group buy for the front lsd goes through. I am still debating on my spring rates for next year. Since I don't drive far, I am going to leave them as is, but if I am on the highways more I will definitely drop them as I catch air when driving. Once my wife gets me a drill press I will likely do my brake upgrade. I may not do the splitter till the spring either since I will likely have the lip off when it snows. I might not even get much snow action since I am going to Malaysia for christmas, and I am debating on the whole school thing next semester. I will also worry about the A/C next spring. If I figure it out before then, great but I will likely not do it until then. I have a big Chinese test tomorrow, so once I am ahead on that stuff I am going to start looking to do an official shoot around here and with something better than my phone.
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Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
www.noritoy.com | noritoy.deviantart.com | http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=19891
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby UtahSleeper » Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:46 pm

Looking damn good!

On the mirror, not sure if there is much that can be done besides replacing. Do most rear views have the same size? Maybe just find a newer one to replace it with, or do like darth did and replace it with a modern one that has a compass and such :)

Most of my searchs have looked like they alll mount 1 of 2 ways.
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:33 pm

Thanks. I might look into another mirror then. I want to mount my radar detector from it as well.

So I setup my epoxy today. This stuff is meant for fiberglass and has a high strength rating. Hopefully this fixes the smal split areas then I can mount it. Anyone have their washer motor go out? I am trying to figure out why mine isn't sending fluid. It seems to be plugged in, and the line is connected from what I can tell.

This weekend I plan on changing back to antifreeze, installing my water temp sensor and my boost solenoid. I get an alignment tomorrow.

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Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby MWP » Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:54 pm

Hmmm.
I would have added some fibreglass matt around the back of the cracks to give it some extra strength.
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Thu Oct 27, 2011 10:11 pm

It wasn't cracked all the way through. Just the lip of it had a crack pulling off. Once I Lear Fiberglass in the sprint I think I will make a copy of them for backup.
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92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:23 pm

Since its hard to find out online I will share it here. If you use a greddy ebc, you need to tap into the fpr line to go to the back of the unit. Seems this is barely mentioned online. I found it on the gt4oc.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/s ... clnk&gl=us

I installed the water temp sensor today, the boost solenoid, the heat shield, antifreeze etc.... I also test fit my lip and while I was there I found a scrape under my bumper. I have a feeling the damn alignment shop did it, but there is not way to prove it.

Anyhow, here is the engine bay as of now. Not the prettiest, but it does what it needs to do. I will adjust the boost tomorrow once I read up how to use this controller.

Image
Image
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Sun Oct 30, 2011 9:54 pm

So I installed the lip, mesh and the rear hatch cover. Other than the boost and a few screws my list is pretty small. Last night I realized I need a horn thanks to stupid drivers. So that and my window washer are my last priorities. I am not sure how long I will leave the lip on cause it might not last long around here, or even getting out of my driveway. The wife does not care for the splitters since there is not middle section and I agree it would look better with a center section.

Image
Image
Image

This is what it might look like if I get a splitter on my current setup.

Image
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby concealer404 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 11:59 am

CMS-GT4 wrote:Since its hard to find out online I will share it here. If you use a greddy ebc, you need to tap into the fpr line to go to the back of the unit. Seems this is barely mentioned online. I found it on the gt4oc.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/s ... clnk&gl=us

I installed the water temp sensor today, the boost solenoid, the heat shield, antifreeze etc.... I also test fit my lip and while I was there I found a scrape under my bumper. I have a feeling the damn alignment shop did it, but there is not way to prove it.

Anyhow, here is the engine bay as of now. Not the prettiest, but it does what it needs to do. I will adjust the boost tomorrow once I read up how to use this controller.



It actually says in the instruction manual to tap into the FPR line. :P (Or... at least it did in the Profec B Spec II.)

HOWEVER, you'll find that works on SOME cars, and not on others. (Didn't work on mine.) I wouldn't take much stock in their instructions either way, so i'm glad you had someone to point you in the right direction. (Their directions are also wrong for installing with an external wastegate.)

I can't see the pics right now, but is it a Spec II? You're going to be doing a lot of reading, and probably some math equations if you want to dial it in correctly. Let me see if i can find the formulas that i had worked out for you. :) I hope it works out for you, it drove me insane to the point that i sold it and i'm just rocking a cheapo ball/spring manual controller until i finish my HKS "Tower of Power."
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 4:27 pm

Yeah its a spec 2. I saw it says some vehicles uses the fpr tap, but there was no list of these vehicles so I could not be sure. I am not sure when I will try and set it up some time this week.
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:14 pm

I started tuning my bost controller. It goes up to 15 but drops off real quick. I think I need to play with the warning and gain some to get it to hold better. I am liking it so far.
I am also trying to figure out my horn situation as well. I may have to drill a hole in the hub to get a wire through there for the horn. I might get a horn ring like this.
http://www.nsx1.com/images/steering_whe ... nter_b.jpg
I also checked out home depot today for materials ro make a bumper undertray. They sell a roll of 20" x 10' aluminum that would be easy to trim and bolt under neath the bumper. I am going to see what my other options are but this would be a cheap solution.
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby Hotrodhendrix » Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:27 pm

I used the same aluminum roll to make a bumper trey on my VR4. Easy as pie.
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Tue Nov 01, 2011 8:22 pm

Did you paint it black or leave it as is?
Coldiron
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby Hotrodhendrix » Tue Nov 01, 2011 8:28 pm

CMS-GT4 wrote:Did you paint it black or leave it as is?


I painted it black along with the intercooler.
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby CMS-GT4 » Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:28 am

I went back and picked up the roll of aluminum and some nice metal snips. I will paint it tomorrow since it will be in the 70s then I can figure out how I am going to mount it. I have a few things to order than I am going to be done with the car for the year, and I will pick back up in the spring. I had been watching my water temp gauge as well during these wot runs. 125 degrees is the hottest it got. The weather is in the high 60s or so.

I am almost done with my boost controller. I just have a little tweaking to do. I want to run about 15psi on high boost. This was a good guide to setting up the controller.

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo-guides/8 ... ec-ii.html

Please note: This writeup was taken from an evolutionm.net thread. It is NOT specific to SR20s but will help set you on the right path.


Before you begin, you should have an idea of what you're aiming for. For EVOs, 19psi (131 kPa) seems to be a safe setting based on what people on the forums have found since it is close to what the stock boost pressure is, yet there is an increase in power due to the Greddy unit keeping the boost close to 19psi while the stock boost tapers off as the RPMs increase. I will henceforth refer to what you're aiming for as "desired boost pressure".

Definitions and things you need to know before you start:

SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).

GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.

START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).

WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).

LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower to when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR SET VALUE MINUS 4%.

PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.

LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.

Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.

Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.

Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.

The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:

1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.

2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.



The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Re: Project CMS: adjustments

Postby Hotrodhendrix » Wed Nov 02, 2011 12:29 pm

Awesome post. Probably would be a good one for the how to section
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