1026 GT-Four Normal Body

Corey

Active member
Night # 38 ~ 109 Hours

I'm exhausted. Its now 4:30 in the morning, and I've been going none stop since 1800 yesterday.

Stuff done: Oil pan sealed. Water pump installed with hoses from hell and water bypass pipes.

Entire turbo, manifold, DP assembly installed.

Fuel rail re-assembled and installed.

Fitted a few new coolant and vacumme hoses.

Tomorrow ill be getting ready to re-install the intake manifold, the valve cover, and timing belt.

Then its clutch and tranny time :shoots:

Once the motor is back together, i still need to change the fuel filter, the steering boots, and clean up the bay a bit.

I've extended the estimated finish date to thurday/friday. School is starting up again unfortunately :(

I'm going to bed for 3 hours before i have to go to work lol :twisted:
 

ST185pinjo

New member
Well, I don't look here for a few days and now got 8 pages to read throug. :shock:

Thanks for this write up.
Soon I will be in the same spot. Though not as thourough as you, just replacing seals, HG, water pump, oilpump, ARP headstuds, clutch and turbo-kit I hope. :D

This really looks good 8) , I hope it is leakfree.
 

Corey

Active member
More pics.

0229082233small.JPG


0229082234asmall.JPG


0229082234small.JPG


0301080118asmall.JPG


0301080330asmall.JPG


0301080428small.JPG


0301080429small.JPG


:D
 

Corey

Active member
Thanks :D

Night #39 ~114 hours

Spent all of tonight trying to figure out how to install the timing belt. But now that its done I'd have to say it's pretty straight forward.

I confused my self by thinking my timing belt alignment marks from the original which I transferred to the new one were incorrect, or that the old belt had stretched, causing me trouble with my new one.

In fact, the marks worked fine, and any errors in the crank angle disappeared as soon as the 13 ft lbs of torque to the tensioner pulley was applied to check the timing before pulling the pin.

So a 3* error worked out to a 0* error :)

At this point, I'm trying to decide if i want to try the "Missile Silo" Method of installing the tranny, and if I want to do that before or after I re-attach the intake manifold and wiring harness.

Cheers

Corey
 

Corey

Active member
Night # 41 ~ 128 Hours

Tonight I installed the valve cover, Distributor, water neck, wiring harness, and intake manifold

I HATE THAT MANIFOLD :shoots: really tought to get on by yourself i found. :(

I also installed a new fuel filter - which i noticed now comes with rubber insulators for the bolts for vibration protection.

I also installed the new steering boots, and in the process, found my old tierod ends were leaking a bit, so i ordered new ones from 1sttoyota.

Tomorrow night, im going to get the clutch on, Then ben will come over and he'll help me muscle the tranny on. At which point i can throw this thing back into the car :D

Cheers

Corey
 

ST185pinjo

New member
Can you make a good write-up of installing the clutch with nice pics? :wink:
I'll have to do that too, in about one month.

keep it up. 8)

Thanks.
 

Denver_whiteST185

New member
missle silo style is interesting to say the least, but it works. It will be MUCH easier if you level everything before trying to connect them
 

Corey

Active member
^^ I think we're going to try with the motor upright, just like we ripped it off.

Tranny goes on pallet, motor on hoist. Lower motor to tranny and wiggle tranny on.

UPDATE:

Night # 42 ~135 Hours

Tonight I finished up with the Manifold - braces, new hoses, double checking everything etc.

I also switched out the tranny cooler lines between my E150F and E154. The E154 lines are longer than what i need.

I then moved the motor onto the hoist, and began installing the clutch :)

Notes on ORC OGURA Clutch Install.

I dont recommend using the supplied bolts. They appear to be quite soft, and while i was doing the final torque to 80 ftlbs, they started to round off a bit :doh:

EDIT: Aug 26, 2012 - MUST use the supplied ORC bolts because they are lower profile. The OEM bolts will eventually grind against the clutch disk as it wears down.

So back out they came, and in went the oem bolts. The OEM bolts have a thicker head on them also.

Torque Values:

Flywheel Bolts - Stock torque of 80 ftlbs
Pressure Plate - 39.2 NM = 29 ftlbs

I didnt have an alignment tool, and it didnt come with one. So, this is what i tried. Got the idea from someone else who installed an ORC before.

I used an 18mm deep socket which slides into the disk. This is a good handle.

I then used the tips of Zap Straps, slid between the disk, and the flywheel stand offs where the pressure plate bolts too.

With these in place, one for each standoff. I hand tightened the PP bolts down just enough to apply some resistance to movement of the disk.

Then I could wiggle it around, till all the zap straps could slide in and out between the disk and standoff, with equal force.

I then slowly tightened the PP bolts down in about 7-10 passes, each time checking to make sure the resistance on the zap straps were the same all around.

Once the PP was right up against the standoffs, i did the final torqueing to 29 ftlbs, and rechecked the straps.

Im fairly confident this worked out to center the disk. :)

Tomorrow, Ben will be over and we'll chuck the tranny on, and ill finish up a few odds and ends, and it will be ready to go back into the car :D

I've got some pictures ill post tomorrow also :)

Cheers

Corey
 

Corey

Active member
Night # 43 ~143 Hours

THE TRANNY IS ON!!!! :D

Ben's friend Pat came by and helped us get the tranny on. It actually went very smoothly considering it was a first time for all.

Took about 45 minutes max. With the motor hanging, and the tranny sitting on a sheet of plywood on a pallet.

We blocked the tranny up on the back and left side so it had the same tilt as the motor. Then started to push the hanging motor into the tranny.

Once the pins lined up, we were able to thread a few bolts in which sinched it up further.

And i suppose the Zap strap method of clutch alignment worked because we had no trouble getting the input shaft in once the motor and tranny were properly lined up and not crooked.

Using a flashlight, we could look into the starter hole and see where the input shaft was in relation to the disk (high/low/left/right)


Then spent the rest of tonight getting the starter installed, checking the torque on all the bolts. Painting the tranny brackets, And screwing up the Left hand tranny seal for the 2nd time!!!

So, tomorrow i'll be placing an order with local toyota for a new seal. Which will take a day or two to get here :(

Guess that just gives me more time to check stuff over.

I've decided to use my old starter also. Once i cleaned it up, i found it was in far nicer condition that the ST205 starter i bought. And it worked fine before i started this project. There is a weight difference, but maybe 2-5 lbs max.

Tomorrow i'll post a hole bunch of pics. I didnt get around to it today because im back at school :(

Cheers

Corey
 

Corey

Active member
Pics :) Sry for crappy quality again. :x

0303080001small.JPG


0304080215small.JPG


0304080215bsmall.JPG


0304082145small.JPG


0304082249small.JPG


Disk Resting on the lower Flywheel standoffs before Plate goes on.
0304082248small.JPG


Plate on, make sure all the springs are set into their seats.
0304082255small.JPG


Alignment marks - There is one more on the PP
0304082256small.JPG


Tips of the zap straps I used to align the disk.
0304082331asmall.JPG


Straps go between flywheel standoffs, and the edge of the disk.
0304082331small.JPG


0305080011asmall.JPG


0305080011small.JPG


C030608_0153_01small.JPG


C030608_0154_00small.JPG


C030608_0154_02small.JPG


I've still got some high res 10mp pics of the shim-less buckets and a few things from a while back. Just need to get them off the camera.

Cheers

Corey
 

Corey

Active member
Thanks :)

Is OS giken the same as ORC?

I heard that Blitz was the same as ORC though.

Theoretically. The car should be just 20 hours away from starting. Seeing as it took my 20 hours to get to this point when i pulled it.

But, will have to wait till tomorrow after noon to get my new tranny seal. God i hope it goes in okay. Dont be suprised if you go into toyota one day for a left hand seal and find they have none left lol. I've destroyed them all.
 

darthripley

Moderator
Corey Darling":3v3bxh5q said:
Thanks :)

Is OS giken the same as ORC?

I heard that Blitz was the same as ORC though.

oh duh! i thought you had an OS Giken clutch :doh:
sorry i haven't been getting much sleep lately :(

you got a ST205 tranny too though correct?
i'm thinking about trying to pick one up when we pull our motor this summer & of course do the clutch at the same time.
did you get a lightened flywheel or just have the stock one resurfaced?
 

Corey

Active member
The ORC comes with a lightweight flywheel. Only thing it doesnt come with is an alignment tool lol.

I just suggest not using their flywheel bolts, and probably not the included grease. I used to MolySlip Molydidium MP Grease.

Very nice kit. Cost 1100 shipped.

The disk is very thin though... which reminds me, i forgot to measure it.

Id say its about 3mm thick. Hope it lasts.

Yep, 205 tranny.
 

Corey

Active member
Night #44 ~149 hours

Spent tonight mostly painting. I threw a quick coat of gloss black on the propshaft, to be followed by some clearcoat.

Then i painted the rest of the tranny mounts. I then painted the Rad fan shroud which was rusting a bit from salt.

I also installed the E150F tranny cooler lines onto the E154F, the power steering pump, and new powersteering belt.

Pretty much just waiting to get my new tranny seal, which will be in tomorrow for me to pick up. Once i get that in successfully, the car should be only a few days away from running, however, still unservicable because im waiting on 1sttoyota delivery of my new tierod ends and new turbo oil return hose. Both of which i can do once motor is in the car.

Cheers

Corey
 

Corey

Active member
Night #45 ~ 155 Hours

Tonight (7th) i threw some paint and clearcoat on the rear suspension. I also sprayed some rubber rock gaurd on the exposed sections of body above the propshaft.

I then installed the SS clutchline onto the tranny, and removed the old longitudinal x-member motor mounts - which i painted and clearcoated.

Tonight (8th) i'm going to install the new Speedsource mounts, get the crossmember back on, and get this motor back into the car :D

I also got the tranny oil seal in perfectly this time :D

Corey
 
Top