1026 GT-Four Normal Body

Corey

Active member
Pics

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DSC02183small.JPG



Intake manifold. The TVIS is smaller than i expected. Some of the butterfly valves have deposits on them.

I unbolted the Throttle body from the manifold to get at he Cold start injector banjo bolt, and a few sensor connectors, but rather than removing all 3 off the hoses on the right side, i only removed the one i could actually access, and just pulled the throttle body aside while i unbolted the fuel line banjo bolt.

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Corey
 

syko says

Active member
What youre supposed to have a picture of is you inside your engine bay. :smokes:

Anyhow, great job on the updates and such. Must be fun to play around with and actually get to clean everything up. When do you plan to get her back on the road?
 

Corey

Active member
lol. I've stood in the bay, but noone around to take a picture :( But dont worry its high on my list :)

Well, i was hoping for sometime this week. But now with wanting to get a MHG, that means a good week waiting for the parts. which will have to wait till friday (payday). Then i need to find a shop that can mill the head down.

So unfortunately, it could be another 2 weeks.

But, after messing with this stuff up to this point, id hate to have to try and get the head off while the motor is in the car. took me about 2 hours just to get the intake manifold off while it was out lol.

I cant wait to see what condition the head gasket is in.

I've also got to buy some metal flat bar, and fab up a peice that uses the tranny mounting points, and two of the lowest flywheel bolts, to hold the crank while i try and undo the crank pulley.

I've got a new oil pump gasket, and rear main seal housing gasket, so ill remove those to get the old oil seals out. And then reseal the oil pan.

While the head is off getting machined, ill clean up the engine bay. I've got to replace the driver's side (RHD) steering boot, its completely ripped.

And ill get started on replacing all the vacumme hoses with my new silicone :)

My turbo also has very little to zero shaft play. Not enough to see, but JUST enough to feel. Which is FAR better than Ben's two turbos, there's got to be a good 1-2 mm of radial play on those, and some front to back :|

Corey
 

etantshi

Moderator
You don't need to do all that fab work to hold the crank. Just reinstall the flywheel, and install one of the upper tranny bolts. Then use a socket to keep the crank still by letting the socket catch the teeth and tranny bolth thus keeping the flywheel from moving, then you can easily undo the crank pulley bolt.
 

Corey

Active member
I think ill try that real quick before getting the bar stock. but the stock will be really easy to make, just need to drill 4 holes, and use the existing bolts.

I stopped by a local engine machine shop, they said that if i brought in my head, they could mill it down for $100. And that depending on where the valves sit, they can remain in the head :)

But he also strongly suggesting getting the block milled down also.

Which probably involves removing pistions doesnt it?? :| This is starting to get out of my league lol.

After looking at the TVIS/Intake manifold inlets, and how much smaller the manifold's inlets are, im going to use Ben's carbide burr to port them out.

I think ill also port out my waste gate a bit also.

Any comments on that, will i need the waste gate ported?

Thanks

Corey
 

etantshi

Moderator
Corey Darling":2utxmig1 said:
I think ill try that real quick before getting the bar stock. but the stock will be really easy to make, just need to drill 4 holes, and use the existing bolts.

I stopped by a local engine machine shop, they said that if i brought in my head, they could mill it down for $100. And that depending on where the valves sit, they can remain in the head :)

But he also strongly suggesting getting the block milled down also.

Which probably involves removing pistions doesnt it?? :| This is starting to get out of my league lol.

After looking at the TVIS/Intake manifold inlets, and how much smaller the manifold's inlets are, im going to use Ben's carbide burr to port them out.

I think ill also port out my waste gate a bit also.

Any comments on that, will i need the waste gate ported?

Thanks

Corey

In order to make sure the valves sit right, you should take out the cams. Just be sure to keep track of your buckets.
 

Corey

Active member
Oh yes, cams will be coming out, because dont they need to be out to get the head off?

EDIT: Nope, cams can stay in to get the head off. But they will need to be removed to get the #3 head bolt out of its hole once off.

With the cams out, will all the valve componets just spill out of their holes? i thought a special tool (spring compresser?) was needed to remove the valves?

Does 100$ sound okay to have the head milled?
 

Corey

Active member
I tried placing a long socket extender (~8 inch) between one of the tranny bolts in the block, and some flywheel bolts.

Now, just to be clear, lefty loosey righty tighty for the Crank Bolt right????

Cause holy crap lol.
 

Corey

Active member
GOT IT :D

Some penetrating oil and Torch... and a ben later lol. I stood on the engine while it hung from the hoist, and ben yarded on it.
 

tjdouble07

New member
Corey Darling":2dchgtyg said:
Oh yes, cams will be coming out, because dont they need to be out to get the head off?

With the cams out, will all the valve componets just spill out of their holes? i thought a special tool (spring compresser?) was needed to remove the valves?

Does 100$ sound okay to have the head milled?

You don't need to pull the cams out to pull the head if you are using head studs. If you're running stock head bolts though, you may be right...

As far as the valve stuff coming out with the cams out, you can pull out the shims and buckets with the cams out (they shouldn't fall out unless you were turn the head almost upside down), but you need to compress the valve springs with the shims and buckets out to take the valve retainers/keepers/springs/valves out. As far as stuff spilling out, you need not worry. :)

And $100 sounds reasonable for getting the head milled.
 

Denver_whiteST185

New member
so, whats the best way to re-torque the crank pulley after everything is reinstalled?

my shifter hardware kit finally came last night (TWM shipped it january 9th :doh:) and thats the ONLY thing i haven't torqued down yet (i even got those damn axle hex nuts torqued. those things suck).
 

Corey

Active member
Im just going to do the opposite. Place the socket entension on the opposite side of the tranny bolt, and torque the bolt to 80 ftlbs as per the bgb, which is basically a lug nut, so it shouldnt be too tough. But for some reason, getting it off was a bugger.

Any special tools needed to remove the pisons/crank?

How many people only mill the head? Any problems associated with this?

The shop i talked to said that if both surfaces arn't completely smooth, that when the cometic gasket starts moving around due to expansion, it can tear it up a bit.

The shop said i could keep the valves in the head if they dont protrude past the deck surface, which they dont. Which is good.

Because at this point, it seems like a MHG is going to cost a good 500$. and extend my project another week, week and a half. :doh:

So, should i get both milled? .1mm each? or just the head, .2 mm?

Thanks :)

Corey
 

tjdouble07

New member
I would mill both surfaces if you are planning on running lots of boost. If you are only planning on the 10-11 psi you said then honestly I don't think a MHG is necessary. If you do go with one though, do your best to make both surfaces as smooth and true as possible. I went as far as using a lapping tool and going through multiple lapping compound grits until both surfaces were very smooth. You wouldn't believe it until you saw it for yourself, but even a machined surface will have high and low spots that show up with a flat, hardened lapping tool and a few passes over your block with lapping compound. As I said though, unless you are planning on running high boost this kind of detail is probably an overkill. And honestly, my opinion is you probably don't need a multi-layer head gasket to begin with unless you are planning on running 15-20+ psi on something other then a stock turbo. I ran 16 psi for years on the stock CT26 and headgasket and never had a problem. Only after I threw on my first t3/t4 and turned the boost up did I see a problem.

One more thing to consider... If you go with a MHG, you might as well run at least ARP standard head studs...


As for pulling your pistons, all you really need is a good socket set and maybe an air gun to pull the cross members so you can pull off your pan, if you are planning on doing it with the motor in the car. With your head removed of course, it's as simple as rotating your crank until two of the pistons are at the top, and then loosening the two bolts on each of the rods. Then take an extension or some thing similar, and with a hammer or mallet, give the head of each bolt a tap to break the rods loose. Then just take the bolts the rest of the way out, take the rod cap out, (placing it on a clean rag or something and laying it in order so you can keep them straight as to which one belongs to what) and with someone on the top of the motor, push the rod all the way up and have them pull the piston out through the top. Piece of cake. Just repeat the process of the others and you are golden! :)

Pulling the crank pretty much requires the motor out of the car, but it's pretty self explanitory when you do it. Basically pull of your front and rear main seals, and just unbolt the crank. I've done it a bunch of times, so maybe I'm a little bit optimistic, but I think someone with a bit of mechanical knowedge and a clean place to work should be able to accomplish it no prob.

Putting everything back together is a little more tricky, especially when you need to figure out bearing clearances, and torque sequences, etc. I'd have your machinist help you out with that... :wink:
 

Corey

Active member
Cool, thanks for the info everyone.

I've changed my mind again. I will do the head gasket, but simply replace it with another paper one, and some ARP Studs.

Im getting in over my head. I cant afford the time, money, and learning curve of properly setting up a MHG.

So, with stock head gasket, i just clean the surfaces, swap the new one in, and install new studs ? Assuming my head is still flat?

This is probably the best option for me. Now i should have the car back on the road a week sooner, and a good 350 bucks cheaper :)

There is something worring be about the ARP studs.

I read that due to the way they torque the head to the block, the block can actually warp???

Is this true?

Thanks

Corey
 

tjdouble07

New member
Corey Darling":1pnx0kov said:
There is something worring be about the ARP studs.

I read that due to the way they torque the head to the block, the block can actually warp???

Is this true?

Thanks

Corey


I've been running ARP's for about 5 years now, with no ill effects. You just need to make sure to use the moly lube that comes with them, and don't over-torque them. Also, a lot of the mr2 guys say to retorque them after a few thousand miles on the car, making sure to loosen them first before you re-torque them.

Hope that helps.
 

Corey

Active member
By loosen them, do you mean completely remove them and retorque from 0, or just crack them loose a bit?

I think ill paint a white strip on the nuts, all in the same direction, so that when i got to retorque them, i can tell if they did infact move or not.

Update: Night #9 ~35 hours

Used a two-arm gear puller, and a socket extension to remove the crank pulley. Took alot, including a bit of heat from a torch, but it started to slowly come off.

Then we got the timing belt covers off, and followed the GTfours.co.uk timing belt guide for removing while retaining the mechanical timing. then removed the tensioner and idler pulley.

Tomorrow im going to get some longer bolts so we can bolt my motor up to the motor stand. At which point we'll take the head off, and the oil pan/oil pump/rear main seal housing.

one thing we immediately noticed was the amount of oil coming from the seals :|

Some from the exhaust cam seal, and some maybe from the oil pump gasket itself.

Sure am glad im replacing them all now. When i started, i thought it would be kinda overkill on a low mileage engine.

Im really looking forward to seeing what the HG looks like. Kinda hoping its damaged in some way, that way it will justify taking the head off lol. Just hope the head isnt warped.

Pics up tomorrow

Corey
 

Shaggz00

Active member
Corey Darling":32vmkotp said:
By loosen them, do you mean completely remove them and retorque from 0, or just crack them loose a bit?

Go in order and crack each one loose, then re-torque. I re-torqued mine after about 100 miles, but the guys at ARP said that all you really need is one full heat cycle.
 
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