1026 GT-Four Normal Body

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Postby Corey » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:01 pm

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Intake manifod. The TVIS is smaller than i expected. Some of the butterfly valves have deposits on them.

I unbolted the Throttle body from the manifold to get at he Cold start injector banjo bolt, and a few sensor connectors, but rather than removing all 3 off the hoses on the right side, i only removed the one i could actually access, and just pulled the throttle body aside while i unbolted the fuel line banjo bolt.

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Last edited by Corey on Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby syko says » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:45 pm

What youre supposed to have a picture of is you inside your engine bay. :smokes:

Anyhow, great job on the updates and such. Must be fun to play around with and actually get to clean everything up. When do you plan to get her back on the road?
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Postby Corey » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:16 pm

lol. I've stood in the bay, but noone around to take a picture :( But dont worry its high on my list :)

Well, i was hoping for sometime this week. But now with wanting to get a MHG, that means a good week waiting for the parts. which will have to wait till friday (payday). Then i need to find a shop that can mill the head down.

So unfortunately, it could be another 2 weeks.

But, after messing with this stuff up to this point, id hate to have to try and get the head off while the motor is in the car. took me about 2 hours just to get the intake manifold off while it was out lol.

I cant wait to see what condition the head gasket is in.

I've also got to buy some metal flat bar, and fab up a peice that uses the tranny mounting points, and two of the lowest flywheel bolts, to hold the crank while i try and undo the crank pulley.

I've got a new oil pump gasket, and rear main seal housing gasket, so ill remove those to get the old oil seals out. And then reseal the oil pan.

While the head is off getting machined, ill clean up the engine bay. I've got to replace the driver's side (RHD) steering boot, its completely ripped.

And ill get started on replacing all the vacumme hoses with my new silicone :)

My turbo also has very little to zero shaft play. Not enough to see, but JUST enough to feel. Which is FAR better than Ben's two turbos, there's got to be a good 1-2 mm of radial play on those, and some front to back :|

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Postby etantshi » Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:30 am

You don't need to do all that fab work to hold the crank. Just reinstall the flywheel, and install one of the upper tranny bolts. Then use a socket to keep the crank still by letting the socket catch the teeth and tranny bolth thus keeping the flywheel from moving, then you can easily undo the crank pulley bolt.
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Postby Corey » Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:44 am

I think ill try that real quick before getting the bar stock. but the stock will be really easy to make, just need to drill 4 holes, and use the existing bolts.

I stopped by a local engine machine shop, they said that if i brought in my head, they could mill it down for $100. And that depending on where the valves sit, they can remain in the head :)

But he also strongly suggesting getting the block milled down also.

Which probably involves removing pistions doesnt it?? :| This is starting to get out of my league lol.

After looking at the TVIS/Intake manifold inlets, and how much smaller the manifold's inlets are, im going to use Ben's carbide burr to port them out.

I think ill also port out my waste gate a bit also.

Any comments on that, will i need the waste gate ported?

Thanks

Corey
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Postby etantshi » Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:47 am

Corey Darling wrote:I think ill try that real quick before getting the bar stock. but the stock will be really easy to make, just need to drill 4 holes, and use the existing bolts.

I stopped by a local engine machine shop, they said that if i brought in my head, they could mill it down for $100. And that depending on where the valves sit, they can remain in the head :)

But he also strongly suggesting getting the block milled down also.

Which probably involves removing pistions doesnt it?? :| This is starting to get out of my league lol.

After looking at the TVIS/Intake manifold inlets, and how much smaller the manifold's inlets are, im going to use Ben's carbide burr to port them out.

I think ill also port out my waste gate a bit also.

Any comments on that, will i need the waste gate ported?

Thanks

Corey


In order to make sure the valves sit right, you should take out the cams. Just be sure to keep track of your buckets.
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Postby Corey » Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:51 am

Oh yes, cams will be coming out, because dont they need to be out to get the head off?

EDIT: Nope, cams can stay in to get the head off. But they will need to be removed to get the #3 head bolt out of its hole once off.

With the cams out, will all the valve componets just spill out of their holes? i thought a special tool (spring compresser?) was needed to remove the valves?

Does 100$ sound okay to have the head milled?
Last edited by Corey on Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Corey » Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:15 am

I tried placing a long socket extender (~8 inch) between one of the tranny bolts in the block, and some flywheel bolts.

Now, just to be clear, lefty loosey righty tighty for the Crank Bolt right????

Cause holy crap lol.
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Postby WarTowels » Wed Jan 30, 2008 5:06 am

Dude! AWESOME.

I'm so jealous, I cant wait to get my engine out.

Maybe next year...

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Postby darthripley » Wed Jan 30, 2008 5:11 am

soak the crank pulley bolt in pb blaster overnite - should break loose after that.
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Postby Corey » Wed Jan 30, 2008 5:29 am

GOT IT :D

Some penetrating oil and Torch... and a ben later lol. I stood on the engine while it hung from the hoist, and ben yarded on it.
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Postby etantshi » Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:10 pm

That bolt is one of the reasons why I got impact tools.
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Postby tjdouble07 » Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:30 pm

Corey Darling wrote:Oh yes, cams will be coming out, because dont they need to be out to get the head off?

With the cams out, will all the valve componets just spill out of their holes? i thought a special tool (spring compresser?) was needed to remove the valves?

Does 100$ sound okay to have the head milled?


You don't need to pull the cams out to pull the head if you are using head studs. If you're running stock head bolts though, you may be right...

As far as the valve stuff coming out with the cams out, you can pull out the shims and buckets with the cams out (they shouldn't fall out unless you were turn the head almost upside down), but you need to compress the valve springs with the shims and buckets out to take the valve retainers/keepers/springs/valves out. As far as stuff spilling out, you need not worry. :)

And $100 sounds reasonable for getting the head milled.
Last edited by tjdouble07 on Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Denver_whiteST185 » Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:30 pm

so, whats the best way to re-torque the crank pulley after everything is reinstalled?

my shifter hardware kit finally came last night (TWM shipped it january 9th :doh:) and thats the ONLY thing i haven't torqued down yet (i even got those damn axle hex nuts torqued. those things suck).
^Ted^

went back to the dark side of hondas!!!
(not really, i just own a completely UNmodified 91 civic dx that gets 45+ mpg now)
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Postby Corey » Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:54 pm

Im just going to do the opposite. Place the socket entension on the opposite side of the tranny bolt, and torque the bolt to 80 ftlbs as per the bgb, which is basically a lug nut, so it shouldnt be too tough. But for some reason, getting it off was a bugger.

Any special tools needed to remove the pisons/crank?

How many people only mill the head? Any problems associated with this?

The shop i talked to said that if both surfaces arn't completely smooth, that when the cometic gasket starts moving around due to expansion, it can tear it up a bit.

The shop said i could keep the valves in the head if they dont protrude past the deck surface, which they dont. Which is good.

Because at this point, it seems like a MHG is going to cost a good 500$. and extend my project another week, week and a half. :doh:

So, should i get both milled? .1mm each? or just the head, .2 mm?

Thanks :)

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