My Budget 300bhp St185

MrDB

New member
Its deeper front to back and the take of pipe for blow off valve is straight not angled..

Ebay usually has a few and you can see the difference easily between 2wd one and 4wd.
 

MrDB

New member
As i will be needing better injectors a bit later when i get ecu etc, i will also need to get fuel rail bored out larger to improve flow, so with in keeping with my budget theme i made my own long drill bit and bored a spare rail have. Total cost £21 inc spare rail ;)

Used a normal 7mm drill and a 7mm masonary drill made a jig as follows out of wood.

Drill_Jig.jpg


Drill bits butt together then i weldeded them together and cleaned up with grinder.

IMG_0930Small.jpg


10 mins later 1 bored fuel rail... Used a short 7mm drill bit to get alligned then swapped to long drill for the rest.

IMG_0931Small.jpg


IMG_0932Small.jpg


Need to bung end then pop down to Pirtek to get fuel line fittings for adjustable FPR etc...
 

MrDB

New member
$70 ATS charge is the reason why i did it DIY. How can they justify that. Especially when they have a jig and just put the rail in and 10 seconds later its drilled and done. Bung the end i.e bolt and copper washer......

If i was confident i could get it right everytime i would be doing these for next to nothing on an exchange basis....

Thought i would post it up though as if someone wanted a go they now have the cheapest option.....
 

MrDB

New member
Well i managed to get a hold of a cosworth sierra 4x4 intercooler for £10 off ebay and fitted it today.

The size diffrence is significant. Its deeper wider and taller. But good news is it fits absolutly perfectly in the space between lights just needs a couple of tabs taking off. Intake temps are now significantly lower and takes a lot longer o build heat.

I even had to re program boost controller..
 

Kcman91gts

New member
Could you shine some light on that diy clear corner operation you did , i want to try it with both the front and side markers .. and whats the purpose of the break stopper ?
 

tw2

New member
It prevents the firewall from flexing when you stamp your foot on the brake. It braces the master cylinder and stops it from moving forwards.
 

MrDB

New member
The process is quiet easy for lights. Heat original set with hair drier, this will loosen the black mastic/glue you then need to pry the lens out.

Get some cardboard and make template for new lens.

I used a strip lighting lens cover and cut it up. I used araldite epoxy glue to stick lens to base and used cloths pegs to hold whilst drying.

I then masked them out and sprayed the edges black.

Job Done
 

Kcman91gts

New member
you mean that stuff used in office lights ..

and also with the brake stopper , did you have to tac that bolt onto the end of the MC so it could hold it or is there a hole for it .. i might give that a shot when i do my rear disk conversion.
 

tw2

New member
It sits very very close to the master cylinder but is not attached in any way. I was going to use a spare engine valve to make mine if that gives you an idea- just a nice flat surface for it to come into contact with when you brake hard.
 

Kcman91gts

New member
Ahhh ok .. i think i have the idea now ..

Any of you got any ideas for someone whos oil pressure gauge T just broke off in their head ? .. because i need some right about now .
 

tw2

New member
Yes.... don't use a T, they almost always break eventually. What do you have coming off it? If it is just the stock sensor and another one, ditch the stock sensor since the car doesn't use it for anything, it only powers the idiot light on the dash. If you have other crap then get a flexy section of oil hose to go to a T firmly mounted on something so it cannot crack.
 

Kcman91gts

New member
The T broke off today as i was changing out the oil pressure sensor and is now stuck in the opening for the sensor .. thats what i meant , i already had it T'd off but it broke today lol .. ive been told i may as well buy a new engine because having the head reworked is going to cost me out the ass.
 

MrDB

New member
Latest update.

Ive been offerd an emanage blue v.v.cheap with inj/ign harnesses, i know a couple og 185's running the emanage and im tempted to give it a go. I can then run at least 550's an sort out the fueling. Im not after much more hp yet just want to add a bit of safety to the setup now mainly due to clutch and std pistons etc...

What are peoples thoughts on the emanage blue??
 

MrDB

New member
Well now i have the emanage i can begin moving onto phase 2 of my mods..

so:

1) fit emanage.

I have enough wires on the harness to do ign and inj side so no extra costs with that I want to get a pressure sensor so i can get the maps done against that instead of the std AFM reading and hence it wont matter if i max out afm.. Not that £ so thats ok.

I need to get data lead for the emanage so i can reset all of the old st205 maps to zero and then wire it in so its doing nothing so i know its all working ok. I can also see then if im maxing out afm etc... from data logging within emanage.

going to try the dku-5 nokia lead mod and see if it works only going to cost around a £5 if not i can get a aftermarket lead for £30

2) Get st205 injectors 550's so i can run safer inj duty and also fit my bored fuel rail...

3) i purchased from a temperature switch which i want to wire up to a buzzer or led so i have an early warning on overheating as i hate just a gauge that just reads temp its to easy not to notice high temp for a few mins and then your fubared....

4) wire up my tvis controller so i can get it setup to open up earlier.

After those are done i can get the emanage mapped and if i can run uptop 1.2bar i will be happy with that and hopefully around 320hp if not more. In theory i could rub higher boost than that but im limited by clutch and std bottom end so im playing it a little safe...

If nokia cable comes through next week i will try and zero the maps and possibly fit the emanage to test the wiring etc...

Hopefully i will have it all setup around christmas time ;)
 
NICE!!! this is impressive stuff man, i thank you for sharing these ingenius ideas, i now have a few more things added to my list for winter upgrades lol
 

MrDB

New member
been a while since update.

So i have now added the emanage blue and an install guide is now available for anyone here http://www.adlracing.co.uk/files/Emanage Blue 3sgte.pdf

A simple DIY tune to remove ignition advance at higher revs/load seems to have made the world of diffence to top end pull ( butt dyno ). I have now basic fuel and ignition control and also data logging which with a bit of clever reading will also give me my 0-60 times... :)

Over holidays i will be finishing a few other little projects. Engine damper for £6 is one of them.....
 
Top