My GT-Four A - *stroker being put in*

darthripley":24z3immy said:

you can cut off the 205 tmic mounting points & it will not go anywhere.
that's what we did & that will allow you to massage it into place so it sits straighter on top of the motor.
an alternative to re-welding the pipe that goes to turbo is heating it up with a torch & carefully bending it/moving it over more to the left.

the new rad looks nice & good deal on getting the midpipe ceramic coated.
everything is looking great

Click to expand...

Nice. I'll cut mine off too then. It'll make insulating the bottom easier too when I finally get around to it.

I think I already scraped the coating on a speed bump....lol..sigh. My car is pretty high up too, to the point of looking awkward. How do you guys with lowered st185 and midpipes do it?

I was planning on lowering her about 1", just to make the wheels look natural. It looks strange right now. I am not sure if that's an option now.

Timmey

well ive got thw whiteline kit, so Konis and whiteline slightly lowered springs which is about an inch lower and it still looks high lol.

As for road clearance issues there are some because my mid pipe has a big dent in it, along with the sump lol not cool. so i think if ur handling is good i wouldn't lower it by much at all. not worth the pain.. imagine the damage to mine if the sum cracked and spewed out oil..

:shoots:

Joe just sliced off the brackets with a dremel:



yeah, it's way easier to get the lagging on the bottom with the stupid brackets cut off. there's just nowhere to really attach them if you have a regular ST185 instead of a RC/CS version.
you can also cut a little of the piping that goes to the TB to allow it to move upwards along with cutting some of the piping to the turbo.
you have to work with it for quite awhile to get the fitment to be just right to allow the tmic to sit on there straight instead of cock-eyed.

hmm... we haven't scraped the midpipe & we're lowered by ~1.25 inches give or take (springs are still settling) & we also have an Aussie just like yours.
of course we don't DD the car & avoid speedbumps etc at all costs lol
what size rims do you have?

you could always get coilovers that way you could adjust the height :shrug:

I have 17 x 7 wheels with 215/45/17 Bridgestones. It looks like at least 2" of clearance between the tire and wheel well. I go amazingly slow over bumps. Then again my suspension is making some crazy squeaking noises and seem blown. Perhaps it's not my ride height and my car is 'bouncing' down too far and scraping.

Thanks for the WTA IC details! I better find my rip-off-dremel!

Timmey

not a prob - glad to help on the WTA

yeah if you're struts are blown + worn out strut top mounts that could be big part of your scraping problem.

we're on 16" rims + lowered & don't have any problems. i wouldn't go any lower than 1.5" drop though b/c you might really scrape everything then.

Cool.

I am thinking of going with Megan Racing, Tein or D2 Coilovers. I don't want to have a really harsh ride though, so soft ones. Some research is in order, but I'll be replacing my suspension soon.

Timmey

Update:

I bought a plug and play Haltech E8 from MR20C.com that was done by tuner-deals.com! By 'done' I mean Haltech doesn't make a plug and play kit for the MR2/Alltrac, and tuner-deals.com makes it's own box and loom for it. It's coming with a a cold injector blockoff plate (not sure if my wolfkatz side feed rail needs it though..), a 3bar MAP and IAT sensor. I also have an AEM UEGO Wideband to wire into this. I am stoked.

I built up all these parts, saved to put them all in (shop labour), etc, got laid off, sold my AEM computer and never installed anything that depended on a Standalone (bigger injectors, etc), so I just never installed anything, even the T3/T4 turbo! Now that I have this on the way, I think I just need some head studs and maybe cam/cam gears.

When I need a forged setup, I'll probably just sell the motor and buy a stroker used from mr2oc.com when the opportunity arises. I think it would end up being the cheaper route in my situation.

Thats the update for now! This means my KO T3/T4, SARD Injectors/FPR, Wolfkatz rail, walbro will all be going in soon.

Cheers,

Timmey

if you don't want bone jarring hardness, just use upgraded shocks and lowering springs. They give a firmer ride, but the difference is night and day between old shocks and new

Yeah,

This would probably provide the best balance for what I'm looking for. It just sucks that it would be literally the same or cheaper to go coilovers. The rears for this car seem like a PITA to upgrade, my shop isn't stoked at all to do that install.

My shocks are very blown right now, the rear is making a lot of spring noises all a sudden, when I first got it it wasn't doing this. Initially I thought my swaybar bushings were squeaking or it was something to do with that, but I'm thinking now that the shocks are just blown.

Timmey

Dont say that mate. mine are making the same noise.. i had a full car picking up my dad and his gf from the airport and it sounded sooooooo bad. i was hoping it was the swaybar too lol..

There are some Teins on ebay going for 1.1k atm.. hmmmmm

You mean to say that the cost of some springs and aftermarket replacement shocks is the same price as a set of coilovers?? :shock:

Now that sucks!

When I had my spring and shock combo, it was aftermarket replacement KYB shocks at the factory stroke and some lowering springs. Came in at less than half the cost of a set of tein SS coilovers here in NZ.

Shocks and springs are easy to replace. Need rattle gun, spring compressors, ratchet/spanner set, allen key set, pliers, some rags, empty container, twine or zip ties to hold the brake line away and a bit of elbow grease.. maybe some WD40 as well.

Front shocks are replaced with insert into shock body. Rear shocks are straight swap overs. Watch for oil in old front shock body.. rag cleans that up lol. Allen key is used to release rear sway bar.

If you don't have spring compressors, use the weight of the car to hold the pressure of the spring and when you jack it up, you will unload the spring. This is assuming you have removed the shock shaft nut on the top first with a rattle gun (need to remove with gun as teh shock shaft rotates in teh shock body. Just make sure you seat the spring correctly when you lower it back down when you finish.

Check dust boots and rebound rubbers on shock shaft for wear. May be advised to change these over and yes, they are generic components so should be readily available from any shock shop or compentant auto parts store.

Also, check the top hat / top shock plate as the bearings can fail after years of road use. If you pop the plastic cap on the top hat (which you will have to to access the shock shaft nut) and see some bearings floating around.. time to change the top plate. Interchangable between st18x models.

See, so easy, i remembered all this from memory

So now you've had the ASI installed for a while do you recommend them? im upgrading for track work and i know there bloody cheap and a stockist is nearby.

What are your thoughts?

I'm not amazed, but my rad isn't leaking!

With a slim 12" fan, which is to be fair supposedly less powerful than the OEM fan, I am getting about a hair better performance I saw from my 19 year old OEM rad with this brand new 56mm rad, with new coolant.

Given the added surface area I would have expected more, but it was cheap and fixed my problem which was leaking and not necessarily cooling performance. I'm removing the A/C sometime soon and will put a 2nd fan in, both on the opposite side pushing 100% of the time and will let you know how it goes. Right now the single fan is wired to the stock wiring and only turns on when the car turns it on, usually at idle.

Cheers,

Timmey

DeeCee":2hiu07w9 said:

You mean to say that the cost of some springs and aftermarket replacement shocks is the same price as a set of coilovers?? :shock:

Now that sucks!

When I had my spring and shock combo, it was aftermarket replacement KYB shocks at the factory stroke and some lowering springs. Came in at less than half the cost of a set of tein SS coilovers here in NZ.

Shocks and springs are easy to replace. Need rattle gun, spring compressors, ratchet/spanner set, allen key set, pliers, some rags, empty container, twine or zip ties to hold the brake line away and a bit of elbow grease.. maybe some WD40 as well.

Front shocks are replaced with insert into shock body. Rear shocks are straight swap overs. Watch for oil in old front shock body.. rag cleans that up lol. Allen key is used to release rear sway bar.

If you don't have spring compressors, use the weight of the car to hold the pressure of the spring and when you jack it up, you will unload the spring. This is assuming you have removed the shock shaft nut on the top first with a rattle gun (need to remove with gun as teh shock shaft rotates in teh shock body. Just make sure you seat the spring correctly when you lower it back down when you finish.

Check dust boots and rebound rubbers on shock shaft for wear. May be advised to change these over and yes, they are generic components so should be readily available from any shock shop or compentant auto parts store.

Also, check the top hat / top shock plate as the bearings can fail after years of road use. If you pop the plastic cap on the top hat (which you will have to to access the shock shaft nut) and see some bearings floating around.. time to change the top plate. Interchangable between st18x models.

See, so easy, i remembered all this from memory

Click to expand...

You've got me thinking DeeCee.

Maybe I will just go springs/struts, maybe some softer adjustable ones. Yeah, a nice set of Koni's yellows + labour (cause I don't weld, have no time or any good tools) seemed to work out to about 1000-1100 Canadian, when a set of Megan Racing coilovers is about 1100 Canadian (about 900 USD), and 100-200 install.

So no, not cheaper, but almost.

Timmey

WTF hahaha. And then I read Koni's = $$

And why you need to weld anything for suspension? Only st205 owners have to do that for their BC superstreet coilovers :lol:

Have a think about KYB instead of Konis. Sure adjustable is nice, but when you are paying that for Koni's then the difference between that and coilovers is less than 10% difference.

You say you want a more supple ride, but really you are looking at performance options, so which one should you be really seriously looking at? Coilovers are generally a more firmer ride. I've never known any set to provide a more supple ride over standard.

I think I'm just confused. You're right.

I better look at some struts and springs. I think that is the better route. I really don't want to go through all that work to not like the ride of my car. Right now I sure as hell don't like the suspension though. Right now my primary priority is getting my haltech and sb46 in though. My car isn't running very well with a BOV, and freaks out when I shift.

Speaking of haltech, it arrived about 2 weeks ago. I got it from a guy just over in Vancouver, BC off of mr2oc.com, unused! It's pnp E8 kit for the 3sgte that tuner-deals.com did the loom for. Otherwise, this was never a pnp EMS for the 3sgte. This has a 3 bar external GM map, an IAT and a cold-start-injector plate for the IAT to be dropped in place of. This should be a remarkably easy install. This setup will be tied into my AEM UEGO wideband, and I plan to get a boost solenoid for on-ems boost control.

More tempting stuff to stick in my closet and cry inside until I have cams, cam gears, head studs and a HG.



Timmey

Update?

I wish.

Nothing new as of yet. Got the Haltech. I might install the T3/T4, but I have no internals, so at this point I'm debating on installing it. The car shifts really bad with the BOV, so maybe I'll just install the Haltech and remove the AFM.

Timmey

I just confirmed with my tuner/fab guy. They're moving shop, so no major work (turbo, haltech, fuel system, dyno) will be done until Spring. In the meantime I'll get little bits done - gauges, catch can, things like that.

Timmey

Update:

Some bad luck lately. 3 problems all of a sudden. I moved into a new house recently and she's gone from secure underground parking to sitting outside in the cold, and I think it's trying to strike.

My battery died the other day - strange. It's a huge, new, AC Delco Professional 750CCA. I've had some grounding problems that may have caused this I haven't got around to fixing. My Battery light, Intercooler heat warning light and my tail light warning lights flash on my dash while driving, possibly interrupting the charging of my battery if it's due to grounding problems. I do notice a bit of a dim in the brightness of the lights when this happens, so it could be the alternator no longer charging. I bought an automatic battery charger and filled it up to 100%. I also relocated my trunk-battery-box's ground and have also looked at the grounds for the alternator but the flashing continues with the fully charged battery and moved ground. An Engine grounding kit I installed a few months ago also didn't fix so time to tear open the dash.

While I fixed this, I noticed very white smoke coming from my car smelling like oil - great. Blown turbo, or HG. The car still idles surprisingly well, but is kind of bitchy, and this could explain it. No work on this yet.

The day I charged my battery, Xmas eve, I go to the store to get some booze. When I pulled out of the parking lot after, I realized I had a flat on my front right wheel - THE SAME WHEEL that blew a 10-month-new Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position (top of the line Bridgestone all-season, lots of $$$) and bent my wheel less than 8 months prior. Seeing I bought the first tire that blewout from Tire Rack, and they have no warranty in Canada, I got another brand new Pole Position tire for $300-something from a local shop and paid $160 to get the wheel straitened in Vancouver, and I was on my merry way. Now, less than 8 months later from that first blowout, that same wheel has a flat with a whole new tire. WTF? I took the wheel/tire back to the local shop I bought the second tire from and they couldn't find any leaks after inspecting, replacing the valve and remounting. Strange.

Needless to say I am afraid to touch my car.

Timmey