'91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby UtahSleeper » Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:19 pm

+1 Glad your taking your time to revive her. You may want to consider sand blasting/cleaning up alot of the rust parts as you work on them or in the area.
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia" -Valvetrain woes

Postby phattyduck » Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:46 pm

Fox 21 Alpha wrote:Does anyone know what the hell this thing is?
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OMG Rust! I'm so glad I live in California... :D

As for that pipe, it is a vent line for the charcoal canister. It just sits in a little hole in the crossmember, effectively in the open air.

-Charlie
'89 Camry LE Alltrac 3S-GTE - SV25/ST205 hybrid
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby Fox 21 Alpha » Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:25 am

So after a little vacation to the sand box we're back to it! :D :twisted:

So I went ahead and got the block and head cleaned up and machined/checked. Reused the pistons, had the machine shop clean them however and replace the rings. Crank was ground down by 1mm I believe to get it inline and they supplied the main and cap bearings and thrust washers that supposedly compensate for the 1mm. Seeing as everything was freshly machined and me and buddy had already oiled and torqued everything down, I didn't feel like ripping it all back apart just to check with plastigauge. Even though I spent damn near 2 days lookin for the stuff. Seeing as the book says to do it to check if it needs machined, and I just got everything machined, one would assume it'd be all in spec, so no need right? :|

So got the crank put in, threw the oil pan on real quick to help cover up the engine to paint and also make it easier to paint the pan itself (used the screws to cover the screw holes). I went with the dupli-color engine enamel, did about 3 or 4 coats of red then about 2 or 3 coats of clear. I really liked the clean cast iron look from the machine shop, but didn't realize that 1) That's a color you can get in the enamel and 2) You could always just use clear by itself. I think the red turned out pretty good though, we'll see how it looks when I pull the tape off. Pics below.

A few notes for painting your engine
-It was definitely easier on the stand, as long as you can spin the engine in all directions. Makes taping a little tough but worth it.
-Wear a mask, no matter how little you think you'll need it or how well vented the place is
-Use the painting plastic tarps/drop cloths everywhere, including behind you. I only did about the 180 infront of me I was painting on, and almost ruined the box of powdercoated stuff sitting behind me, luckily caught it in time.
-An exacto to trim your tape on the engine makes a world of difference from just using a razor blade (see below)
-The hardest thing about actually painting was getting all the different angles and crevices. I first was gonna paint just with the engine upside down, but then for the 3rd coat decided to flip it upright, and was glad I did. I also tried to give one coat in a left angle and the other coat at a right angle, you almost have to have it sprayed from every direction to catch everything. I ended up using the whole can and kinda almost ran out. I think more coats that were lighter would have worked better. Might have been easier to brush it on it retrospect, but I think the cans turned out well too, and it went fast.

I also got the rear subframe pulled out and disassembled. I was able to source the two main forward bolts (there's access plugs under the rear seat) from the dealer, so that solves the broken bolt issue. They were a little pricey but the guy helped me out. I'll get pics next time.

I got poly bushings for the trailing arms, but wanted to use OEM for the no 1 and 2 control arms as I've read is good. I also read that you can only get those bushings by buying the entire arms. At a good discount they run abouts $150 a piece (x4) so about $600 just for those 4 bushings. Mine look ok compared to the rest of the bushings so I'll just resuse them for now. I'll put anti seize on everything so I can replace them easier in the future when I got spare money and time.

I got mario's rear diff bushing and his subframe bushing kit. I have barely a clue how it goes together, or how to get the old bushings out, so I'll take another look at that. The search for using his bushings didn't turn up much but questions, and there's some tips for the old bushings, but no pictures. My main questions is should I reuse the old washers that go with the old rubber bushings and if so where? And do these need lubricated?

I also did some sanding under the car, but seeing as I'm using POR15 which you can apply directly to rust, it seems useless to do on the surface rust stuff, so I just got rid of the major stuff. Not sure how the POR15 will attach to the rubber coating on the bottom of the car, but as long as it grabs the bare metal that's all that's important. Only found one hole so far in the rear rocker panel, appears the water had no where to drain, so I may fix that with a drain hole when I patch it.

Still not much progress on the steering rack bolt dilemma. I looked at Meurz's build which has some good bare frame photos and it appears there's no access. The dealer some stuff up but all we could find was the entire steering rack panel which is the width of the firewall and wraps around and is welded to the car (read: frame piece). Which of course I couldn't even order let alone replace. So I'm talking to some guys who do mobile welding. I think the best two options are to cut the entire top half/third and bend it back, replace the bolts and weld it back, or cut a square around the two bolts, replace, and reweld. Hope it goes right eitherway or this car will never drive right again....

I also broke the damn pulley on the power steering pump trying to take it off, it ripped a nice size chip out of it. Ordered one for a 1.6L off of rock auto but the pulley was too big :( The MR2s don't use power steering pumps so god knows where I'll find a pulley for the power steering pump. Still trying to find a nice crank pulley and bolt to go with it...


So the plan is to get the rear subframe and frame cleaned up of the major stuff and coated with por15 (along with all arms). Gonna work on sanding and painting this week. I need an oil pick up gasket to start back up with the engine reassembly. Bouncing between things on the car kinda makes parts pile up, you forget stuff, and everything becomes a mess, but its also kinda having difference stuff to pick from and not getting bogged down in one thing, but next time I think maybe I'll try and keep it to mini projects at a time instead the about 10 I'm doing now haha.

Steering rack mess for those not trackin....(The cut bolt/stud just spins, appears it broke its hold welds in the back, and the right one is getting close)
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Some engine prep work
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Pre-exacto
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Post exacto
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Post Paint
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It ran a little, not a perfect job, but pretty good for first time I think
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This motherf'er......
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No idea how any of this shit goes back together, looks like its supposed to be precise, I'm hoping the old settings will be good :twisted: :|
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Gas tank strap pre sand...
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Gas tank strap post sand (I know its an amazing difference right? :roll:
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I feel like I should be tipping the postman...
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby underscore » Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:08 pm

Nice work! Sucks about that PS bolt though. For the pulley on the pump, you can also use:

08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA CELICA ST16*
08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA CELICA ST16*
09/1989-08/1993 TOYOTA CELICA AT180,ST18*
09/1993-07/1999 TOYOTA CELICA AT200,ST204
06/1991-07/1996 TOYOTA CAMRY SXV10,VCV10,MCV10
09/1991-06/1996 TOYOTA CAMRY SXV10,VCV10,MCV10
11/1995-07/2000 TOYOTA RAV4 SXA1*

So it shouldn't be too hard for you to find one locally.
★ 1991 GTFour RC ~ "Rebel Scum" ★
It's for sale! http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=52181
Build thread http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=44216
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby Fox 21 Alpha » Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:10 pm

Yeah thats what I thought and what we looked up at the dealer, so I thought I was all good when I orded one off of rockauto for the 91 1.6 Celica, but it got here and its way too big, probably by a good inch or so. Its Dorman PT# 300-403. I looked around a bit for the later Celicas and Camrys and apparently they have one listed for the Camry that's 4.12 inch in diameter, which sounds about right since this big one I got is 5.12. Now I don't know if the center will be right or the width, but might be worth checking into if someone runs into the problem in the future. I think smaller pulley is dorman pt number 300-404?

I was able to grab one off another member's 205 so that should be on the way shortly, hopin that works out instead.
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby toayoztan » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:36 am

For the bushings on the subframe and what not, if you don't have a press, burn them out. I have a press, and I still burned them out.

For the toe arms in the rear, just set it all to zero, then take it to get the whole car realigned. Make sure to get a brass (or steel) brush and clean the washers and surfaces real good so you get a clean area to work with for the guys to adjust your rear toe.

As for the PS stud, that whole piece is spot welded to the firewall. You can buy a spot weld drill bit, drill out all the spot welds, and pull that off (that's what it looks to be like anyway). Thing is, you'll need to figure out a way to spot weld it back on...not sure if you access to a welder or someone who can. If you have an air gun, you may be able to thread the nut on by hand to the stud as best you can right before you would need a socket (and of course the stud to stay still). Then get an air gun and blast it on the nut, and it may spin the nut with enough force/speed w/o having the stud secured. Of course, this doesn't fix the problem, but it may work for now. However, since your motor is out, and you are taking care of everything, best to go ahead and just fix it now.

I feel you on the mini project deal. I outlined a plan on what to work on next to get the car back together, but I keep going off on tangents to take care of smaller things along the way.

Example: Put interior back together. Oh, what's this...ABS harness? I'll rip it out...damn, maybe I should rip out the AC wiring too...and now my dash harness is in shambles on the ground lol.

I just write a To-Do list. One list for major things to get done in order (I hate putting stuff on, then having to take it back off b/c I didn't think it through first - like putting your dash and center console together, then completely rip it apart to take out the harness :doh:). I make another list of "things to get done NOW" - aka, I refer to this list daily, to make sure I don't keep moving on without finishing up other things first so I don't get into a 10 project predicament :wink: . It makes me move a little slower, but keeps things less hectic for me anyway.

Bryan
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby phattyduck » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:46 pm

Fox 21 Alpha wrote:Still not much progress on the steering rack bolt dilemma. I looked at Meurz's build which has some good bare frame photos and it appears there's no access. The dealer some stuff up but all we could find was the entire steering rack panel which is the width of the firewall and wraps around and is welded to the car (read: frame piece). Which of course I couldn't even order let alone replace. So I'm talking to some guys who do mobile welding. I think the best two options are to cut the entire top half/third and bend it back, replace the bolts and weld it back, or cut a square around the two bolts, replace, and reweld. Hope it goes right eitherway or this car will never drive right again....

Steering rack mess for those not trackin....(The cut bolt/stud just spins, appears it broke its hold welds in the back, and the right one is getting close)

Image
The studs are supposed to be 'loose' in their mounts in the firewall. The stud on the driver's side is probably fine.

As for the passenger side, you are going to have to cut a hole, repair the problem and weld up the hole, sadly. :doh:

-Charlie
'89 Camry LE Alltrac 3S-GTE - SV25/ST205 hybrid
'99 4Runner SR5 4WD 5VZ-FE
Previous: '88 Camry LE Alltrac 3S-GE BEAMS, '90 Camry 3S-GTE, '90 Camry DX
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby Street_Chally73 » Sat Nov 03, 2012 8:18 am

The progress is looking good so far, sans the busted bolt. :roll: I would have to agree with Phattyduck on the fact that the LH one should be okay after running a thread chaser over it several times to clean up any previously semi-stripped threads (my kit has saved me a TON of times already). :wink: Also, the suggestion to use an oxy-acetylene torch to burn out the old rubber bushings will save you some serious time & frustration than if you were to only use a hydraulic press or specific bushing tools.

Also, if you want to get all of those scale-rusted parts extra clean before you prep & paint them, use an angle grinder or even a drill & use a 4 1/2" cupped wire wheel and go to town on all of those parts (that is, provided you don't have access to a sandblaster). Just make sure you're wearing plenty of protective clothing (long-sleeved shirt, goggles, gloves, & a face mask) 'cause you will be impaled by small pieces of wire as you go along (consider it a session of accu-puncture in the garage, lol). :twisted:

Keep up the good work!! The engine's looking good now that it has a fresh coat of paint on it. 8)
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time. Again.

Postby Fox 21 Alpha » Fri Jan 23, 2015 8:42 am

Just realized I never updated this. I got the engine back together, but had a rough start (only firing on two cylinders, because the fuel injector wires were loose in the ECU. That only took a week and a half to figure it out.

I had a guy come and cut around the studs, and well two new ones in place. Accidentally gave him the ones that weren't stainless but hopefully they hold for the life the car. If I remember right he cut a square around the studs to remove them from the car, pulled the old ones out of the hole, put the new ones in place, welded them, and then welded the square back on and cleaned it all up.

Anyways long story short I drove the car for about a week working through various small issues, leaks, intake piping since the stock stuff didn't fit the new turbo, etc etc. I actually had to have my ATA intercooler pipe-to-turbo cut and rewelded twice to get the angle close enough to make the connection to the turbo. Very irritating. Oh but little I knew...

So the first time I get the car over 4000 RPMs, if that, is on my way to work on a nice open stretch. I think I almost hit 50 mph. Ohhhh. As I pull into work my oil pressure light began to flicker on and off. So I park it, can't find any oil leaks or anything funny, and go to work. On the ride home everything seems fine. Then about 30 mins later as I get close to home its flicker on and off more, and sometimes almost staying faintly lit. I triple check my levels, all good.

Long story short I connect a pressure gauge up to the oil level sensor port, and while cold I blow the PSI off the charts, probably thanks to the ATS high volume pump and the fresh rebuild. However as the engine heats up, I steadily loose pressure until its dipping below 4 psi at idle (which is minimum spec per the BGB). A quick look at the main bearings shows pretty decent scoring and damage.

So I have the dealer rip the engine out cause I couldn't bear to turn around and do it myself again. Tear it all down, back to the machine shop, regrind the crank even more, new bigger bearings to compensate, they take the cylinder walls out to .020 or whatever and hone them, new pistons and rings, head is checked and reworked, etc, etc etc, basically another $1000 to redo everything. By now I could have bought an ATS built long block but I digress.

So now Im finally getting ready to put the engine back in a second time. I think Im going to try doing it myself again to save some money. I just got the tranny mated up and Im doing some small chores like fixing the broken speedo and whatnot. Im hoping things go better for me this time. I also practically destroyed my brand new snow tires due to my toe being severely off in the short time I drove it. I'll be lucky to get 3 months out of whats left of them...

Good news is that the engine sounded beautiful and healthy, and besides some bullshit with clutch and brake noise and the broken speedo and few odds and ends, seemed to work and run decent. A local guy said it was the smoothest running engine he'd ever heard. Hopefully she does just as well this time, and the oversized pistons don't crack the walls, which I hear can be a problem.

Pics to come...
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby Rymantas » Sat Aug 27, 2016 3:47 pm

Just saw this post here. I am a local Pittsburgher as well! It is good to see more 3s cars in the area!

Do you still have the car!? There are a few MR2s rolling around the area that I am trying to get to meet up for a few local car meets!

Hope all is well!
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Re: '91 All Trac Project "Mia"-Engine Rebuild Time

Postby Fox 21 Alpha » Fri Sep 23, 2016 1:44 am

Haha yeah I do, she's getting the engine swapped again
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