OKC Project-8/1/15-Another fun car!

toayoztan

Moderator
I am in the process of rebuilding my Alltrac. I like to use a lot of pictures, so for those that love pics, you won't be disappointed!

Thanks for checking this out!

UPDATES
7/24/10 - Page 1
Parts
10/01/10 - 1
Motor and tearing/stripping down the car to prep for full body/paint job
10/05/10 - 2
Motor disassembly
11/08/10 - 2
Parts
3/06/11 - 3
Body prepped and painted
3/10/11 - 4
Interior cleaning, before and after
3/14/11 - 4
Engine bay cleaning, before and after
3/24/11 - 4
POR15 on front of car
4/10/11 - 5
More parts and OEM stuff
5/09/11 - 6
Fender-well and rear-underside cleaned, before and after
10/22/11 - 6
More parts and motor build
10/23/11 - 7
Block build and powder coating work
11/04/11 - 7
OEM parts, rebuilt alternator and starter, ASI radiator, Tein SS
11/07/11 - 8
Oil Dip Stick with Plasti Dip and teardown of the suspension/spindle stuff
12/24/11 - 9
Rear drivetrain parts coated and cleaned
12/30/11 - 10
Front suspension parts coated, SuperPro Bushings installed
1/16/12 - 12
Front and Rear suspension installed
6/02/12 - 15
Rear exterior stuff installed.
6/10/12 - 16
Rest of the rear together with ebrake installed.
7/21/12 - 18
Pics of the ACPT CF DS and sunroof drain tubes rerouted.
8/05/12 - 19
Freshly waxed with Collinite 915 and pics of wheels.
10/14/12 - 20 and 21
Door and interior stuff put back together.
11/08/12 - 24
ABS and Cruise Control wires removed.
12/20/12 - 24
AC removal complete. New windshield. Dash and rear speakers installed.
1/11/13 - 27
Carpet, rear seats, rear passenger and trunk panels installed. Front end stuff installed.
1/19/13 - 27
Hood latch assy, power steering, and windshield wipers installed.
2/21/13, 4/12/13 - 29, 30
Wheels!
 

toayoztan

Moderator
PARTS - these will on my alltrac and the 93 motor it was pulled from. I have a 92 motor around that I may throw a stroker in later or do something different with. I'm a proponent of keeping the original motor/block with the car so I probably wouldn't use the 5s block, but I'm not looking for insane HP either with this car. Enjoy!

CP 9.0:1 86.5mm Pistons
dsc1192mod1.jpg


Eagle H-Beam Rods with ARP Rod Bolts
dsc1193mod1.jpg


Main and Rod ACL Race Bearings with ACL Thrust Washers
dsc1353mod1.jpg


ARP Main and Head Studs
dsc1261mod1.jpg


ARP Flywheel Bolts
dsc1258mod1.jpg


ATS 170-degree Thermostat
dsc1231mod1.jpg


ATS GM Knock Sensor Adapter and Pigtail
dsc1266mod1.jpg


Ferrea 1mm Oversized (OS) Intake and Exhaust Valves
dsc1200mod1.jpg


Ferrea Valve Seals
dsc1216mod1.jpg


Ferrea Keepers
dsc1212mod1.jpg


HKS Valve Springs
dsc1220mod1.jpg


Brian Crower (BC) Titanium Spring Retainers
dsc1283mod1.jpg


HKS 272 Intake and 264 Exhaust Camshafts
dsc1223mod1.jpg


Fidanza 4-point Adjustable Cam Gears
dsc1273mod1.jpg


Speed Source Top Feed Fuel Rail (TFFR)
dsc1232mod1.jpg


Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
dsc1271mod1.jpg


Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
dsc1326mod1.jpg


Precision 750hp Bar and Plate Intercooler
dsc1357mod1.jpg


Straight Pins (I forget where these go exactly, but I'll figure it out)
dsc1285mod1.jpg


Key (Crankshaft Gear)
dsc1286mod1.jpg


Key (Crankshaft Pulley/Harmonic Balancer)
dsc1289mod1.jpg


Crankshaft/Timing Belt Guide
dsc1287mod1.jpg


Crankshaft Bolt
dsc1288mod1.jpg


Idler Pulley 1
dsc1306mod1.jpg


Idler Pulley 2
dsc1301mod1.jpg


Idler Pulley 2 Bolt
dsc1291mod1.jpg


Cam Gear Bolts
dsc1292mod1.jpg


Timing Belt Tensioner
dsc1294mod1.jpg


Toyota Oil Filter
dsc1305mod1.jpg


Toyota Waterpump
dsc1308mod1.jpg


"3SGTE" Upper Timing Cover Sticker
dsc1303mod1.jpg


"Spark Plug Info" Upper Timing Cover Sticker (I don't know why I got this...probably won't put this on)
dsc1304mod1.jpg


Speed Source Shift Cable Bushing Kit
dsc1248mod1.jpg


Speed Source Shifter Base Bushing Kit
dsc1256mod1.jpg


TWM Performance Short Shifter
dsc1314mod1.jpg


TWM Performance A6 Leopard Shiftknob (Gun Blue Finish)
dsc1320mod1.jpg


Speed Source Crossmember Bushing Kit
dsc1238mod1.jpg


Speed Source Polyurethane Engine Mounts
dsc1243mod1.jpg


Mario's Solid Aluminum Rear Differential Cushion w/ Solid Rear Differential Mounts
dsc1329mod1.jpg


Mario's Solid Rear Subframe Mounts
dsc1331mod1.jpg


These show the descriptions of the following bushings with part numbers for anyone that's curious (these bushings can be found at rocketeerperformance.com or 185performance.com):
dsc1332mod1.jpg

dsc1339mod1.jpg


dsc1338mod1.jpg


dsc1343mod1.jpg


dsc1344mod1.jpg


dsc1345mod1.jpg


dsc1346mod1.jpg


dsc1348mod1.jpg


Whiteline Rear Adjustable Sway Bar
dsc1368mod1.jpg


Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Sorry, I know it's a lot of pictures to load up.

If you see "red x's" then you can either just refresh the page or right click on the "red x" and click on "show picture" when the menu pops up.

If there's still problems loading, i may just switch to photobucket. Once the pictures are loaded up though and you revisit, there shouldn't be problems having them load up again since more than likely your internet settings have cookies enabled.

Bryan
 

gt4gordon

New member
Lilking the look of this project what's your plans for the car?
Love to see loads of pictures. Look forward to see the build start.
 

Meurz

New member
This is going to be EFFING good. Please continue posting such crisp and large pics. This is how a project thread needs to be imo, while I'm planning my own big build, I'm all ears. Well, eyes. Love it!

:notworthy:
 

toayoztan

Moderator
gt4gordon: Plans are to add a better turbo (nothing HUGE) with an EMS tune and see what happens. Then I'll adjust and tweak or change out what I need/want when I have more money, time, and experience with the setup. In terms of numbers, not really shooting for a specific HP goal at the moment.

Meurz: Thanks! Yeah, I'll definitely keep this updated with plenty of pics!

Bryan
 

turbo4wd

Moderator
SleepingTurbo":18n3z7yb said:
where can i get the solid aluminum diff mount and rear subframe bushings? all the marios stuff?

This is the only email I can find.. its old so I don't know if it still works, but it wouldn't hurt to try: mario.koenig@gmx.at

Here's his profile on the forum: (but it looks like he hasn't been around in a while so not sure if a PM would get answered quickly)
http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=29

Like everyone has said in the past, fair prices, quick shipping. Hopefully he's still making them, or has some new old stock on hand..
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Everything on the exterior was absolutely removed. The exterior, all jambs, behind door panels, behind front fenders, engine bay, etc will be painted. The interior will be left untouched. I plan to just wipe up the interior really well. Here ae some pics throughout the tear down process. In total, I took about 1100 photos to ensure I don't miss where a single bolt goes (yes, I am OCD about certain things! :lol: ).

Here's the car in it's "raw/original" form right before I started tearing her down. At this point, the car was still running perfectly fine.
img1901edit.jpg


First off, drop and pull the motor! Here's the motor before I started on it. Dirty, but over the years it's been freshened up and tuned, so it still pulled its weight!
img1910edit.jpg


Lifting up the car to clear the motor. I find it's always easy to pull the motor from the botom (and put it back through from the top...).
img1963edit.jpg


Do we have enough clearance? I think it's ready to be pulled out!
img1984edit.jpg


Here's the back of the car at the time...the rear is pretty slammed, but with ample room if needed to raise the front higher...
img1998edit.jpg


Here's the engine bay, minus the motor/transmission. Wow...talk about grime, debris, dirt...unsatisfactory!
img2028edit.jpg


Next, pulled a few things off, including the front bumper skin/fascia. This will be replaced with the CS bumper and skin.
img2046edit.jpg


Also pulled a few other things around the car, including the headlights and bumper itself. Looks pretty cool to me actually...the car's nose doesn't look so pointy/flat anymore!
img2105edit.jpg


Also, got some of the interior pulled (I ended up pulling the dash and a lot more after the picture was taken). The brown stuff on the floor pan wipes off with a rag+cleaner. No nasty surprises or rust that I've found under the carpet! I'll probably end up leaving the original sound deadening in there...unsure yet...
img2370edit.jpg


Another view of the interior...
img2377edit.jpg


Here's a view of the rear with the panels taken out. Again..no rust or nasty surprises. You can't see the left and right bank of the trunk area, but there's no rust there either. Relatively clean for its age!
img2789edit.jpg


You can see here, the entire sunroof assembly has been removed to ensure this area gets hit with fresh paint and to remove any dirt/grime/surface rust/etc.
img3008edit.jpg


The frame is ready for body/paint work and on the trailer to be hauled over to the shop!
dsc0259edit.jpg


Rear view...
dsc0252edit.jpg


Front view...
dsc0257edit.jpg


Other things you didn't get to see removed are the windows, side view mirrors, front fenders, rear bumper, rear diff assembly, gas tanks, EVERYTHING under the car except rear subframe and ebrake cables, every single clip/bolt/plastic piece on the outside, etc. I really don't think it was possible to strip it down further on the exterior (yes, OCD in me!).

Thanks for looking!

Bryan
 

GT4times2

Moderator
Now that's how You do a strip down for a rebuild. What color are you planning to paint it? These days when it comes to Alltracs, I'm more into restorations along mild engine/suspension mods, than all out hp quests (while neglecting the rest of the car).

I'm keeping an eye out for this thread. Good work so far.


Did you pressure clean/degrease the engine bay btw? Are you going to respray it?
 

darthripley

Moderator
GT4times2":25veoprp said:
Now that's how You do a strip down for a rebuild. What color are you planning to paint it?

+1 really good prep is one of the biggest keys to a paint job coming out nicely.

we'll have to meet up once you get it painted & going on the road again :)
 

toayoztan

Moderator
MWP: Yeah, "unfortunately" I am keeping a running tab of the cost of this project, and it's not pretty lol.

Muerz: Thanks! It'll get even better when I get the time to post more pics. I'll be posting up pictures of the engine tear down and getting the block/head back from the machine shop soon.

GT4times2: Thanks, I really wanted to not take any shortcuts with this project. As for the color, I'm going with black(ish) still. It's not going to be the OEM color, but it'll stick with black with some metallic/pearl in it. I know that seems "loud" to have metallic/pearl in there, but it's so subtle, many wouldn't notice it unless you got up to it in person. Main reason to go with it was ease of finding a color (it's an OEM color) and maintenance (as a lot of the swirl marks, etc won't be so visible in direct light).

As for the all out build, I won't be quite there (yet), but I wanted to make sure everything else got taken care of first (all the suspension and exterior including the bay). I look at it as having a solid foundation...and it makes me feel better I'm building/putting a nice motor into a car that wont' break down due to worn out suspension, rust problems, oxidized paint, etc.

I didn't do anything with the bay except completely strip it of parts/hardware/etc. My painter will be cleaning the bay area to prep for painting. Although we talked about it, I'm going to call him tomorrow again to make sure we are still on the same page about that haha.

darthripley: We will definitely need to meet up. It probably won't be til next spring or summer though honestly haha, with school thrown in too.

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Autobot":s5063d44 said:
Excellent work on stripping the car down. Looking forward to new paint pics. :)

Thanks! I can't wait for the body/paint to be finished either, but I told him i'm in no rush (i still have plenty to do). He's usually on top of it though.

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Alright, here's a series of pics of when I was stripping down the motor. It isn't entirely inclusive by any means nor meant to be a complete step-by-step guide. I just thought it'd be interesting for anyone that wanted to check it out, with a quick run through. I'm also missing parts of the motor (like AC, vac assembly, etc) because I modified/removed them awhile back.

I also removed the engine wiring harness already before this.

Enjoy!

Here's the front 3/4 view of the motor in its "raw" form.
dsc1411edit.jpg


Here's the rear 3/4 view of the motor.
dsc1419edit.jpg


First, I removed the alternator assembly/bracket.
dsc1432edit.jpg


Next, I remove the manifold/turbo/downpipe assembly.
dsc1438edit.jpg


The distributor came off.
dsc1451edit.jpg


Throttle Body and support plate were next!
dsc1454edit.jpg


Fuel components were removed.
dsc1465edit.jpg


Intake manifold and "stuff" bolted to the rear of it and the rear of the block were removed.
dsc1475edit.jpg


Some of the coolant/oil cooler components were removed.
dsc1490edit.jpg


This picture shows the rear of the motor after removing the parts.
dsc1499edit.jpg


You can see here, the oil cooler adapter/plate was unbolted.
dsc1507edit.jpg


Power Steering came off next!
dsc1515edit.jpg


Upper Timing Cover was removed to expose the cam gears.
dsc1522edit.jpg


Before touching the cam gears, I removed the Harmonic Balancer/"crank pulley."
dsc1525edit.jpg


You can see what the result of that is here...
dsc1530edit.jpg


That allowed me to remove the lower timing cover.
dsc1533edit.jpg


I proceeded with the timing components...first with the timing tensioner.
dsc1537edit.jpg


Then removed this washer.
dsc1539edit.jpg


Then this crank pulley/gear. Don't forget to remove the two keys on the crank also.
dsc1541edit.jpg


Next, Idler Pulley 1 (I believe) is up next.
dsc1543edit.jpg


Finally, the cam gears. That screwdriver is there to help me align to TDC before I did all of this.
dsc1546edit.jpg


What's different? Timing plate is gone!
dsc1548edit.jpg


Finally, I can remove the water pump...
dsc1550edit.jpg


Next, I wanted to remove the head to lighten the load before separating the transmission from the block. So the valve cover came off.
dsc1572edit.jpg


Cams came off next...make sure you unbolt these according to the Removal Order indicated in the BGB or you will snap the camshaft!
dsc1573edit.jpg


Used a magnet to dig out the shims+bucket. Then remove the head bolts (oem)/nuts (aftermarket) in removal order according to the BGB or you may warp the head!
dsc1579edit.jpg


Head is off! Man...those pistons look pretty disgusting. A lot of this crap resulted from slightly blown seals from the turbo I had on.
dsc1583edit.jpg


Here's the OEM HG. It's not that old...I don't know, 10-20k mile? I forget and too lazy to try and remember heh.
dsc1591edit.jpg


After removing all the necessary bolts, bracket, and clutch cover plate, the transmission is separated from the block! I find supporting the pan/block with a 2x4 as pictured stabilizes the motor.
dsc1598edit.jpg


Here's my ACT pressure plate and clutch hidden behind there. This comes off first.
dsc1603edit.jpg


Next, remove the flywheel bolts and remove the flywheel. I used my air gun for this.
dsc1613edit.jpg


Then, take off this transmission plate/shield and remove the rear main seal retainer and seal.
dsc1614edit.jpg


I then jumped over to the head to disassemble it. I used this tool called Valve Master by ToyoTool. It can install and remove the valve assembly pretty easily.
dsc1622edit.jpg


I placed it as so, then use a hammer to bang on it slightly.
dsc1623edit.jpg


It knocks the valve locks/keepers loose and grabs the retainer.
dsc1624edit.jpg


Then pull out the valve spring.
dsc1627edit.jpg


Push the valve through the bottom and remove it.
dsc1629edit.jpg


Use pliers and CAREFULLY remove the valve seals as to not damage the valve bore sidewalls (or whatever it's called).
dsc1630edit.jpg


Then use a magnet again to remove the valve seats.
dsc1631edit.jpg


Next onto the block to disassemble. Get the block on an engine stand like pictured here.
dsc1633edit.jpg


I first removed the Idler Pulley 2 (I believe) from the oil pump.
dsc1644edit.jpg


Then remove the gear/front portion of the oil pump (there are hidden bolts behin here to remove the full oil pump/front main seal assembly). ALso, remove the oil pan so you can unbolt the oil pickup and baffles from the block.
dsc1647edit.jpg


You can see here how the oil pickup is bolted to the oil pump...obviously, trying to remove the oil pump housing w/o touching the oil pan is impossible...
dsc1648edit.jpg


Your block should look like this. (You can see I left the keys in place on the crank...forgot to remove them actually lol).
dsc1651edit.jpg


Turn the block upside down so we can access the rod caps to pull the rods/pistons out.
dsc1655edit.jpg


To remove the piston/rod assembly, first remove the nuts. During this whole process, you may need to turn the crank to reach all the rods caps.
dsc1659edit.jpg


Next, you're going to push the rod/piston down. You always want to remove through the top (this should be intuitive). Before doing so, stick hoses on the studs to prevent damage to the cylinder bore as you push the rod/pistons out.
dsc1660edit.jpg


Once all of the pistons/rods are out, you'll want to remove the crank. Loosen up the bolts and wiggle the main/crank cap back and forth while pulling up, this helps to get them off.
dsc1665edit.jpg


Next, remove the thrust washers.
dsc1667edit.jpg


Then, lift the crankshaft out and you should have what you see here! Don't forget to remove the oil squirters in each cylinder if you wish to remove those anytime (do it now).
dsc1668edit.jpg


Using a screwdriver or similar tool, carefully pry out the main bearings and remaining thrust washers.
dsc1672edit.jpg


I proceeded to put the main/crank caps back on (just easier to keep up with).
dsc1691edit.jpg


Same for the head...I put the cam caps back on to keep them with the head.
dsc1693edit.jpg


Here are the tools I basically used for this whole process (with exceptions like the airgun and pulley puller, etc.). So you don't really need a bunch of fancy tools to get the job done!
dsc1686edit.jpg


Bryan
 
Top