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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/01/10 - Refer to the first post

Postby toayoztan » Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:17 am

MWP: Yeah, "unfortunately" I am keeping a running tab of the cost of this project, and it's not pretty lol.

Muerz: Thanks! It'll get even better when I get the time to post more pics. I'll be posting up pictures of the engine tear down and getting the block/head back from the machine shop soon.

GT4times2: Thanks, I really wanted to not take any shortcuts with this project. As for the color, I'm going with black(ish) still. It's not going to be the OEM color, but it'll stick with black with some metallic/pearl in it. I know that seems "loud" to have metallic/pearl in there, but it's so subtle, many wouldn't notice it unless you got up to it in person. Main reason to go with it was ease of finding a color (it's an OEM color) and maintenance (as a lot of the swirl marks, etc won't be so visible in direct light).

As for the all out build, I won't be quite there (yet), but I wanted to make sure everything else got taken care of first (all the suspension and exterior including the bay). I look at it as having a solid foundation...and it makes me feel better I'm building/putting a nice motor into a car that wont' break down due to worn out suspension, rust problems, oxidized paint, etc.

I didn't do anything with the bay except completely strip it of parts/hardware/etc. My painter will be cleaning the bay area to prep for painting. Although we talked about it, I'm going to call him tomorrow again to make sure we are still on the same page about that haha.

darthripley: We will definitely need to meet up. It probably won't be til next spring or summer though honestly haha, with school thrown in too.

Bryan
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/01/10 - Refer to the first post

Postby Autobot » Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:43 pm

Excellent work on stripping the car down. Looking forward to new paint pics. :)
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/01/10 - Refer to the first post

Postby toayoztan » Wed Oct 06, 2010 2:42 am

Autobot wrote:Excellent work on stripping the car down. Looking forward to new paint pics. :)


Thanks! I can't wait for the body/paint to be finished either, but I told him i'm in no rush (i still have plenty to do). He's usually on top of it though.

Bryan
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/01/10 - Refer to the first post

Postby toayoztan » Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:42 am

Alright, here's a series of pics of when I was stripping down the motor. It isn't entirely inclusive by any means nor meant to be a complete step-by-step guide. I just thought it'd be interesting for anyone that wanted to check it out, with a quick run through. I'm also missing parts of the motor (like AC, vac assembly, etc) because I modified/removed them awhile back.

I also removed the engine wiring harness already before this.

Enjoy!

Here's the front 3/4 view of the motor in its "raw" form.
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Here's the rear 3/4 view of the motor.
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First, I removed the alternator assembly/bracket.
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Next, I remove the manifold/turbo/downpipe assembly.
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The distributor came off.
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Throttle Body and support plate were next!
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Fuel components were removed.
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Intake manifold and "stuff" bolted to the rear of it and the rear of the block were removed.
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Some of the coolant/oil cooler components were removed.
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This picture shows the rear of the motor after removing the parts.
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You can see here, the oil cooler adapter/plate was unbolted.
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Power Steering came off next!
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Upper Timing Cover was removed to expose the cam gears.
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Before touching the cam gears, I removed the Harmonic Balancer/"crank pulley."
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You can see what the result of that is here...
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That allowed me to remove the lower timing cover.
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I proceeded with the timing components...first with the timing tensioner.
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Then removed this washer.
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Then this crank pulley/gear. Don't forget to remove the two keys on the crank also.
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Next, Idler Pulley 1 (I believe) is up next.
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Finally, the cam gears. That screwdriver is there to help me align to TDC before I did all of this.
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What's different? Timing plate is gone!
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Finally, I can remove the water pump...
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Next, I wanted to remove the head to lighten the load before separating the transmission from the block. So the valve cover came off.
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Cams came off next...make sure you unbolt these according to the Removal Order indicated in the BGB or you will snap the camshaft!
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Used a magnet to dig out the shims+bucket. Then remove the head bolts (oem)/nuts (aftermarket) in removal order according to the BGB or you may warp the head!
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Head is off! Man...those pistons look pretty disgusting. A lot of this crap resulted from slightly blown seals from the turbo I had on.
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Here's the OEM HG. It's not that old...I don't know, 10-20k mile? I forget and too lazy to try and remember heh.
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After removing all the necessary bolts, bracket, and clutch cover plate, the transmission is separated from the block! I find supporting the pan/block with a 2x4 as pictured stabilizes the motor.
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Here's my ACT pressure plate and clutch hidden behind there. This comes off first.
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Next, remove the flywheel bolts and remove the flywheel. I used my air gun for this.
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Then, take off this transmission plate/shield and remove the rear main seal retainer and seal.
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I then jumped over to the head to disassemble it. I used this tool called Valve Master by ToyoTool. It can install and remove the valve assembly pretty easily.
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I placed it as so, then use a hammer to bang on it slightly.
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It knocks the valve locks/keepers loose and grabs the retainer.
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Then pull out the valve spring.
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Push the valve through the bottom and remove it.
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Use pliers and CAREFULLY remove the valve seals as to not damage the valve bore sidewalls (or whatever it's called).
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Then use a magnet again to remove the valve seats.
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Next onto the block to disassemble. Get the block on an engine stand like pictured here.
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I first removed the Idler Pulley 2 (I believe) from the oil pump.
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Then remove the gear/front portion of the oil pump (there are hidden bolts behin here to remove the full oil pump/front main seal assembly). ALso, remove the oil pan so you can unbolt the oil pickup and baffles from the block.
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You can see here how the oil pickup is bolted to the oil pump...obviously, trying to remove the oil pump housing w/o touching the oil pan is impossible...
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Your block should look like this. (You can see I left the keys in place on the crank...forgot to remove them actually lol).
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Turn the block upside down so we can access the rod caps to pull the rods/pistons out.
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To remove the piston/rod assembly, first remove the nuts. During this whole process, you may need to turn the crank to reach all the rods caps.
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Next, you're going to push the rod/piston down. You always want to remove through the top (this should be intuitive). Before doing so, stick hoses on the studs to prevent damage to the cylinder bore as you push the rod/pistons out.
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Once all of the pistons/rods are out, you'll want to remove the crank. Loosen up the bolts and wiggle the main/crank cap back and forth while pulling up, this helps to get them off.
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Next, remove the thrust washers.
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Then, lift the crankshaft out and you should have what you see here! Don't forget to remove the oil squirters in each cylinder if you wish to remove those anytime (do it now).
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Using a screwdriver or similar tool, carefully pry out the main bearings and remaining thrust washers.
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I proceeded to put the main/crank caps back on (just easier to keep up with).
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Same for the head...I put the cam caps back on to keep them with the head.
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Here are the tools I basically used for this whole process (with exceptions like the airgun and pulley puller, etc.). So you don't really need a bunch of fancy tools to get the job done!
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Bryan
Last edited by toayoztan on Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/05/10 - Read first post

Postby UtahSleeper » Wed Oct 06, 2010 2:59 pm

Love the break down and the step by step. Engine works always scares me, but this makes it seem fairly easy.
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/05/10 - Read first post

Postby 2_Liter_Turbo » Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:05 pm

Very nice man! Reminds me of my SR build, ha ha. Can't wait to see the final project!
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/05/10 - Read first post

Postby toayoztan » Wed Oct 06, 2010 11:49 pm

3tcpower - Yeah it isn't really all that bad to disassemble a motor, with care on removal of certain parts like cams, head, etc (use the BGB for this stuff). Assembling the motor is a little trickier as torque values and what not come into play. Two words I always give for advice for people working on their motor and disassembling them - Patience and Organization! Don't rush on stuck/rusty bolts, use PB Blaster or similar and heat to help. And keep all bolts and parts organized with baggies or bins. It'll make everything a lot smoother when you put it back together.

2_Liter_Turbo - I actually have pics of an SR build hah. My bro and cousin each tore down and built up an SR20det motor...they aren't nearly as "ugly" as the 3sgte imo :twisted:.

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/05/10 - Read first post

Postby 2_Liter_Turbo » Thu Oct 07, 2010 4:55 am

Lol, I have tons of pics of my build! I have to redo the bottom end though, the ringlands broke on my pistons. Going with CP this time, instead of the high silicon AL pistons I went with last time.
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 10/05/10 - Read first post

Postby toayoztan » Mon Nov 08, 2010 7:21 am

I snapped some shots of some more parts that I compiled. They're a bit sloppy, but you get the idea, enjoy!

Spherical Bushings for the rear..
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Intake Manifold Mounting Studs
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Intake Manifold Mounting Bolts
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Intake Manifold Mounting Nuts
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Exhaust Manifold Mounting Studs
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Exhaust Maniold Mounting Nuts
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Distributor Mounting Bolts
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Bearing Cap Bolt (cap over distributor)
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Intake Plenum Name Plate
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Toyota Emblem Rubber Mounting Clips
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Spark Plug Clamp
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Spark Plug Clamp
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Oil Filler Cap
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Distributor Cap Screws
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Distributor Cap Center Piece
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Tinted Vent Tail Corner
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Bryan
Last edited by toayoztan on Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:56 am, edited 2 times in total.
2017 Pilot Elite
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1993 Alltrac - http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37466
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1977 GL1000
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 11/08/10 - more pics

Postby MixMaster » Thu Nov 11, 2010 2:26 pm

Love the car, great project thread and the photos are great documentation.

Hopefully, we can get an OKC/TX meet together sometime when this thing is back on the road. Kepp up the good work. Looks awesome!

2 things: your last photo of the tinted tails isn't loading and where did you find the part # for the name plate? I'd like to order a JDM ceramics/powered one.

P
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 11/08/10 - more pics

Postby toayoztan » Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:20 pm

Thanks, yeah I like to take a lot of pics, those aren't even half of the ones I have.

For the OEM parts, I tried to keep the part numbers visible in the photos for anyone curious.

I found the nameplate part #'s on the EPC I have loaded onto my computer. I tried to order another one, but was informed it's no longer available...not sure which one it was. Honestly, I ordered whatever nameplates I could because I was curious what they actually where heh.

Yeah we will have to meet up sometime. If I drive my car down to texas, I may have to ghetto it up with blue painter's tape on the hot spot areas for rock chips or put some clear bra on.

Thanks for the heads up on the picture not showing up...it was showing up early, but now it isn't for me also. I'll get that reuploaded again!

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 11/08/10 - more pics

Postby C-dubb » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:54 pm

Damn, very detailed with recording the whole process. I like it. Good work, looking forward to getting a look at how it comes along.

On a side note, I like the ToyoTool used to remove the valve spring assemblies. I have a beer bottle opener made by Sapporo from Japan that works very similar...wonder which one came first.
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 11/08/10 - more pics

Postby CSAlltrac » Mon Dec 13, 2010 1:10 am

Subscribed :D
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 11/08/10 - more pics

Postby toayoztan » Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:32 pm

Thanks guys, I hope to have another relatively large update over this christmas/new year's break when i'm done with school.

I'll be painting the block, clean/polish (maybe) up the head, and powder coat quite a few parts.

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
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1994 Supra TT 6spd
1993 Alltrac - http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37466
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Re: The OKC Project - UPDATED 11/08/10 - more pics

Postby BADNEWS » Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:35 pm

I like how you're using all new parts. Just how i build my stuff.
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