OKC Project-8/1/15-Another fun car!

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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby athousandleaves » Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:50 pm

Firstly, :shock: amazing build!

Couple of questions/requests for you though...

Did your car come with factory undercoating? If so are you stripping that off before doing the metal ready & marine clean for the por-15?

Also if you have the time/patience could you possibly create some sort of printable jig that one could lay over a fender to properly cut out the holes for the side markers? Just something that you could tape at the top edge of your fender and then trace the correct spot.
I've heard from a friend that there is one somewhere online but I haven't been able to find anything. :cry:
If you have no idea how to make it digital then maybe you could just mail me the cut-outs and leave the rest to me?


Truly impressive and dedicated work so far, keep it up!
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby toayoztan » Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:07 am

Thanks!

The coating was a dealer option I believe (that's what I was told), so it didn't come from the factory. Regardless of where it came from, I scrubbed the hell out of it with purple power and just used metal ready on bare metal areas and rust (after brushing away the loose rust). I then just slapped por15 ontop of it all. It'll still bond just fine and create a moisture proof seal, it just won't stop any underlying rust of course beneath the toyota coating (since por15 isn't in actual contact with the metal. But honestly, despite not being the best stuff, but I believe that coating did help for the most part...i did peel away some of the toyota coating around areas that had some rust, but it didn't go beyond an inch underneath it.

So was it redundant to put por15 over the toyota coating? Perhaps, but I also wanted the undercarriage black, and due to the por15, it'll be easier to just rinse the undercarriage whenever I need to get under there to wash off any dirt/grime/oil.

I could have probably steam blasted the under carriage to get off the dirty and oil first, before scrubbing with purple power, but I didn't think about that until I got done lol :twisted:.

As for the fender cut out, it was actually a pain-staking process of making sure it lined up perfect. The fenders do flex when laying on the ground, so it was hard to get a static reference point to make any measurements off of. However, I can tell you what I did to make it easier.

Assuming you still have the side moulding on the fender, I used that as a reference point with a straight edge.

I probably should have taken photos, but honestly, it was taking longer than expected. I then used a MiniDremmel to make the cutout (being very careful not to extend the cut lines past the other perpendicular cut out lines). Yes, I did try a paper and cardboard template, but it just wasn't as accurate...the angle of the square (after overlaying the template to the usdm fender) just never was spot on.

I have a spare fender and can show you what I did with the straight edge, if you are having picture visualizing what I did. But i'm not sure how much help it'll be, considering you still need measurements (I assume you have no jdm fender at all, and will be cutting both usdm fenders?). I can't take any measurements for you anymore because I no longer have the side moulding.

If you don't need it right away (i'm very bogged with school at the moment), I can probably try and come up with a better template that can be used to overlay onto the fender, that way the side moulding for reference isn't needed.

Bryan
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby athousandleaves » Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:16 am

I'm in no rush right now to chop into my fenders so no worries about it - I too am feeling the school hurt that happens around this time of the year.
Unfortunately the JDM fenders that were on my RC were sold before I fully took ownership of the car so I don't have them to go by for measurements.
I've noticed that most people measure from the side garnish up to where the hole is and as much of a good idea that may be; my idea was to tape a piece of paper right along the top edge of the fender and then tape it down to follow the contour like this:
Image
(pardon the crudeness of the picture - just doing it quickly)

Once you have the paper flat to the surface of the fender you can just cut out the side marker from it; trace the door arch portion on the back part of the paper that overhangs for alignment and then trace through the hole for the side marker. Am I making any sense?

Maybe the best way to do it would be to cut a piece of paper that fits on the inside of the fender instead? :twisted:
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby toayoztan » Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:15 am

Yeah If i do the whole paper method, i'll have to make absolutely sure that the paper can be placed over another fender without any "wiggle" room, which can change the angle of the side marker.

I think also, the sidemarker will almost be straight on with the corner light, so that's something I can look into.

I believe it'll be more accurate/reproducible if I have the fenders bolted down completely onto the car before making any template, as the fender will be stationary as to not bend/flex.

Bryan
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby Puffy » Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:16 pm

I can feel the GT4 love in this thread.
Awesome Build.
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby toayoztan » Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:01 am

Puffy wrote:I can feel the GT4 love in this thread.
Awesome Build.


Thanks!

It can be a love and hate thing time to time hah.

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
2014 Juke NISMO RS
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1993 Alltrac - http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37466
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby toayoztan » Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:28 am

So I need to replace my wheel bearings...

When I get them off, I'll check the hubs to see if they're within spec to be reused.

During that time, I want to get some fresh studs in. I was thinking of ARP extended studs (added strength and length...that doesn't sound right, does it? :twisted:).

Thing is, if I get some spacers, I think i'll be running into problems if I use the spacers that have built in second set of studs (aren't most of them like that past a certain thickness)?

The wheels I'm running are pretty much 17's with like 35ish offset. I'm going to be running them for a while, so my wheel spacers aren't going to be very thin (but I won't be getting crazy). I think they'll be thick enough to have the second set of studs though built into them...so that's why i'm curious if the ARP extended studs will present a problem.

I suppose I could always have the studs on the spacer pressed out...what do you all think? Are the ARP's (in terms of strength), worth it over the OEM studs?

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby Rick89GTS » Sat Apr 02, 2011 7:16 am

Very inspirational.
This is so well documented, kudos on a magnificent restoration.
Subscribed, I want to see more :D
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby athousandleaves » Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:46 pm

Did you kill the wheel bearings by not leaving the axle stubs in the hubs for the past while?

I would see the extended studs being a problem for sure with a spacer that is designed to have its own studs.

I've been running some of the H&R TRAK+ DRM Spacers on my rear end and have no complaints. They completely cover the stock studs up and are hubcentric so I didn't bother with extending the studs. I bought some 10mm spacers for the front end however and for that I plan on extending my studs.
Image <- clicky for who I bought em from.

However if you go with another make of spacer that doesn't have the extend studs built in then, yes you guessed it, you will have to get the ARP extended studs.
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby toayoztan » Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:11 pm

Thanks Rick, hopefully will be posting more pictures up of my progress next week when I get done with tests.

athousandleaves wrote:Did you kill the wheel bearings by not leaving the axle stubs in the hubs for the past while?

I would see the extended studs being a problem for sure with a spacer that is designed to have its own studs.

I've been running some of the H&R TRAK+ DRM Spacers on my rear end and have no complaints. They completely cover the stock studs up and are hubcentric so I didn't bother with extending the studs. I bought some 10mm spacers for the front end however and for that I plan on extending my studs.
Image <- clicky for who I bought em from.

However if you go with another make of spacer that doesn't have the extend studs built in then, yes you guessed it, you will have to get the ARP extended studs.


Yeah, I left the axles out, I intend on replacing all my wheel bearings anyway (just hoping the all the hubs are still within spec to have new wheel bearings put on). Each hub is about 200+ dollars!

Yeah I think i'll just get the ARP extended studs anyway and just work around that.

Thanks for the help/suggestions on the wheel spacers!

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
2014 Juke NISMO RS
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1993 Alltrac - http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37466
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Re: The OKC Project - 03/14/11 - POR15 Up Front!

Postby toayoztan » Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:47 am

Alright, like I said I would post this weekend, here are pictures of the latest set of parts that I've purchased.

I'm going to make my own manifold (my brother will be welding it up), just a ram horn design. However, without thinking, I bought a T3 twin scroll flange...think I can just grind the center section down? The collector exit is actually bigger than the t3 flange, so shoud I gasket match it? I need to check and see if how well the T3 flange mates up with the turbo itself..

Enjoy!

ATS Modified Oil Pump
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Full Engine Gasket Kit
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Cometic 1.8mm MHG
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OEM Timing Belt
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OEM Lower Ball Joints
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FIPG
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Hatch Weather Stripping
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Weather Stripping for both doors
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Weather Stripping for both door jambs
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Sunroof Seal
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OEM Spoiler seals (one of them was missing which was shipped the next day)
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Here's the missing spoiler seal...
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OEM Replacement Door Handle Mechanism Clips
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Water Pump Replacement Screw (had to use impact driver to get old one off...decided it'd be safe to replace it)
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AEM EMS-4 Unit
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AEM EMS-4 96" Engine Harness
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Tial MVS Wastegate
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Tial Q BOV
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Injector Dynamic 1000cc (ID1000)
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AEM IAT Sensor
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RacerX Custom Side-feed Intake Manifold
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KORacing Oil Feed Block Adapter
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KORacing Oil Drain Oil Pan Adapter
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KORacing Oil Feed Turbo Adapter
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KORacing Oil Drain Turbo Adatper
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KORacing Manifold Head Flange
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TwosRUs Front and Rear Adjustable Endlinks
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ACT 6puck Unsprung Clutch Disc/Heavy Duty Pressure Plate with TO Bearing
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Precision 5857 Billet Journal Bearing Turbo
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T3 Manifold Flange
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Vibrant Performance T3 Single Scroll Manifold Collector
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Piping of various shapes for the custom ram horn manifold...
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Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
2014 Juke NISMO RS
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1993 Alltrac - http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37466
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Re: The OKC Project - 04/10/11 - More parts posted!

Postby Corey » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:24 pm

:notworthy:
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Re: The OKC Project - 04/10/11 - More parts posted!

Postby Autobot » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:13 pm

Nice collection of parts.
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Re: The OKC Project - 04/10/11 - More parts posted!

Postby Meurz » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:40 pm

#winning
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Re: The OKC Project - 04/10/11 - More parts posted!

Postby toayoztan » Tue Apr 12, 2011 2:25 pm

Thanks guys!

Yes, Rene, Charlie Sheen would approve lol :twisted:

Bryan
2017 Pilot Elite
2014 Juke NISMO RS
1994 Supra TT 6spd
1993 Alltrac - http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37466
1977 Celica GT Liftback
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1977 GL1000
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