sMARTINside - New Wheels

sMARTINside

New member
Here is the list of things that I did to the ST205 powerplant before swapping it in the ST185:

New parts:
- Cambelt + tensioner (stock Toyota parts)
- Thermostat Brand new 1998 Land Cruiser 4.7L V8 82 Celcius degrees
- Samco silicone radiator hoses
- Crankshaft oil seals changed (front and rear)
- Magnecor KV85 ignition cables
- Cap distributor + rotor
- Spark plugs: NGK BKR7EIX-11
- New replacement radiator
- Subframe bushings changed for aluminium ones from Mario
- Engines mounts filled with urethane

I also had to shorten the throttle cable bracket on the throttle body to get it to the right length for the ST185 cable to fit.

As you can see, I installed the ST205 fuse box. The main reason was that my ST185 stock fuse box had bad contacts inside, so it was not reliable. I had to change the vocation of some fuses and relay. For example, the starter relay became my intercooler pump relay, because the starter relay was useless since the ST185 starter relay is located in the car...

Now that my car is back on the road, I want to show it to you :)

On this view we can easily see the heat exchanger (it is a oil cooler from a backhoe, has good cooling properties, good size and very strong)
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sMARTINside

New member
On the 18th of September, my cousin and me decided to take a ride in the country back roads to have fun with the Alltrac. He brought his Nikon, and I had a lot of fun in the gravel roads. Here are a couple pictures that he took:

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sMARTINside

New member
Thanks Josh, doing all myself on this swap made me understand a lot more how ST185 are made. It will help me in the future, when I get to diagnose on this car.
 

sMARTINside

New member
The Alltrac started vibrating, lately. The faster I drive, the more I hear it, and the frequency grows. If I turn right, the sound gets calmer and when I turn left, it gets stronger. Accelerating and braking doesn't influence the strength of the sound.

It came progressively. At first, I was thinking that one of my wheels lost a balancing weight, so I changed my summer wheels to my winter wheels to see if it would change anything. NO, vibration is still there.

A little time before this happened, my front left axle nut got loose, so I tightened it back, it came loose again a couple weeks later... Would it be that the front left wheel bearing is going to hell? I thought that the wheel that has the bad bearing would make more noise when it gets loaded, but it seems to be the invert.

Can someone help me with this issue, so I repair the right thing...
 

Terracar

New member
It sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Certainly is odd that an axle nut would come loose. Did you use the cotter pin with the castle nut or?

-Terracar
 

sMARTINside

New member
Yes, the nut is locked by the castle nut and cotter pin. The washer is also there, behind the nut. That is bogging me too. I beleive that a worn out wheel bearing could cause it to slack with usage, but I need to verify with Alltrac guys.
 

Terracar

New member
Also to check,

Lift the car up so the wheels are off the ground. Grab the wheel at 3 & 9 and rock back and forth, there shouldn't be any play. Now grab it at 12 and 6, again shouldn't be any play.

-Terracar
 

sMARTINside

New member
That is the way, I found that the nut was slack: I jacked the car up and there was play on the left wheel. So, it must be the bearing, I guess.
 

sMARTINside

New member
I removed the left front knuckle today. And yesterday, I ordered the bearing and seals at my local Toyota stealership. So I can feel that the old bearing is rough turning. I will take it off the knuckle soon.
 

Terracar

New member
One other thing is be sure the machine shop checks the hub to make sure it isn't score or anything.

-Terracar
 

sMARTINside

New member
A little update: I removed the bearings from the knuckle, yesterday afternoon. Like you said, Joe, the hub is damaged. It is milled down where the inner bearing was on it. The bearings themselves, do not look too bad, but i guess they got their toll. When turning the hub by hand, they where making a rubbing sound.

I painted the knuckle yesterday evening in black, being there and I prepared it to receive a new rotor dust plate, as it is sitting in my shed since 3 years about. It is time to put this nice piece of bent sheet metal in place.

I went to my Toyota dealership, as they received the bearings, seals, dust deflector and snap ring.(207$ tax in) I had to order the hub, sadly. That is expensive: 194$ + tax. Do anyone find them at lower price? Napa doesn't hold them in hand and Carquest sells the OES (The one Toyota sells) at 228$ + tax.

That is going to be a expensive repair: 430$ in OEM parts
I guess I could have bought them online, but I couldn't wait for the shipping, this time as winter is coming soon!

I will post pictures this afternoon.
 

Terracar

New member
I don't think you are going to find much less than the $194, hell they are $181 here in the states at my local dealership and I was not able to find it anywhere else.

-Terracar
 

sMARTINside

New member
Ok, so I installed the new parts and went for a ride. It still vibrates the same... I guess that I didn't change the defective one. It vibrates more when I turn left. It must be the front right wheel bearing that is dead... I'm sad. :(
 

sMARTINside

New member
Here are some pictures of my wheel bearing repair:

The hub has been turning on the inner bearing's inner race:
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The Toyota Oem parts: Wheel bearing, seals (inner and outer), snap ring and dust deflector
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At the same time, I painted the knuckle and installed my brand new dust plate, that was sitting at home since 3 years:
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The final assembly:
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Now, I still have vibration, so, I need your help to find where this could be coming from. What is the difference in the sound of a bad wheel bearing vs the sound of a bad cv joint?
 

sMARTINside

New member
I think I just found the source of my problem. I jacked up the front of the car to check if the CV joints had a good feeling when turned by hand and I found some loose in my left wheel again! The axle nut was slack again... So this time, I know that this was not caused by a bad bearing. It was caused by the threads on the axle, being worn out, so the nut is slipping on the axle, when driven. Now, i can't even torque the nut back to 137 ft-lb, it would slip.
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Toyota doesn't seem to sell only the outboard joint. Would have to buy the whole axle...

I need to get the threads back in shape. What options are in front of me right now?

1- Buy a new axle and change it (Where is the best place to get them?)
2- Get the threads back into shape, by getting it machined (weld, turn, rethread...)
 
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