1991 RC recovery mission - "Rebel Scum"

underscore

Well-known member
I picked this up off here about a year ago, from a member down in Van. It was in need of some love mechanically, but I was determined to save it. Long story short it now runs very well after a total mechanical overhaul.

The goal: To build an RC that keeps all the RC-specific parts intact (turbo, AFM, ECU, transmission, rear diff, etc) while upgrading as much of the rest as possible, to make the RC the most it can possibly be.

The goods:
Engine & Performance
- Mahle pistons
- Brian Crower valves/springs/guides/keepers
- King bearings
- ARP head studs
- 3rd gen headgasket
- 98+ 5SFE oil pump
- ACPT carbon driveshaft
- Koyo radiator
- AC delete
- rewired OEM intercooler sprayer
- Speed Source poly motor mounts
- xiiimotorsports aluminum north-south crossmember bushings
- xiiimotorsports solid shifter bushings
- xiiimotorsports power steering pulley
- xiiimotorsports braided transmission cooler lines
- ATS 3" coated downpipe
- Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator
- Blitz NUR Spec midpipe and axleback
- Deutschwerks 320 fuel pump
- uprated viscous coupler (center diff) set at 350Nm
- ST205 cams
- Oil filter relocation
- Oil cooler
- ORC 409 Super Silent clutch
- TechnaFit SS clutch line
- Samco T-coupler
- HKS SSQV

Handling & Braking
- TechnaFit SS brake lines
- Porsche/Brembo 4 pot front calipers
- PowerSlot STi front rotors
- gtfourtc's Porsche caliper adapters
- Enkei RPF1's (17x8 et45)
- Kuhmo SPT's (245/40R17)
- GT4 Racing suspension front & rear poly bushings
- GT4 Racing swaybar bushings
- GT4 Racing swaybar endlinks
- BC Racing RM Type coilovers
- Ford Probe/Mazda MX6 rear strut tower bar
- xiiimotorsports aluminum rear diff mount
- xiiimotorsports delrin rear subframe bushings
- 8mm front wheel spacers
- 25mm rear wheel spacers
- SP Performance slotted and diamond dimpled rear rotors
- Hawk HPS rear pads
- ARP extended front wheel studs
- Whiteline rear sway bar

Interior & Electrical
- Innovate SCG-1 boost controller/wideband air-fuel ratio/boost gauge
- Innovate MTX-D oil pressure/temperature gauge
- Varns Electric Division SLC-302 top speed de-limiter
- TRD shift knob
- TRD seatbelt pads
- Hella Supertone horns
- Clarion MAX385VD head unit
- Rockford Fosgate amp & 10" sub
- OEM fuel pump relay jumper

Exterior
- FET driving & fog lights
- BWR lug nuts
- RallyArmor UR mudflaps

Maintenance
- Rebuilt engine
- Rebuilt turbo
- Rebuilt power steering pump & lines
- Rebuilt all 4 CV axles
- Replaced all sensors (water temp, knock, oil pressure, tps etc)
- Replaced all 4 wheel bearings
- Replaced thermostat
- Replaced all engine gaskets and hoses
- Replaced inner & outer tie rod ends & boots
- Replaced brake master
- Replaced circuit opening relay
- Replaced EFI relay
- Rear diff maintenance
- Replaced clutch master and slave
- Rebuilt OEM injectors
- Replaced fuel filter
- Power steering lines replaced with braided AN

On order/not yet installed
- brushed aluminum gauge surround
- clear fender markers
- replica RC side decals
- Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator

Future
- 6th gen GTFour big brake kit (rear)
- misc. bits powdercoated gloss black/red and satin red
- replace lower front grille mesh
- relocate fog lights behind mesh.
- Custom front/rear skidplates
- Custom rear diffuser?
- IS300/Altezza cluster conversion

Spare parts
- ASI 56mm radiator
- Mishimoto radiator fan
- Mishimoto radiator cap
- Stoney Racing rad silicone hoses
- Stoney Racing ST205 silicone intake hose
- AEM 3" air filter
- BWR battery tiedown
- Vibrant MAF adapter
- DIY catch can
- AEM water/methanol injection
- ACE Engineering front chassis brace
- Whiteline-style front strut tower bar
- RAZO RE30 Turbo/lap timer
- NRG Gen 2.5 quick release
 

underscore

Well-known member
Just picked up some 17x8 Enkei RPF1's in gold off a friend of mine, real pics to come but they look loike this:

RPF1%20Gold_l.jpg
 

underscore

Well-known member
To play it safe I test fit the rims to be sure they clear the calipers, they came off a WRX with an STi brake conversion but you never know.

old caliper & bracket vs new

106_0017.jpg


old rotor, new blue brake fluid & RallyArmor mudflaps

106_0019.jpg


new SS brake lines

whyexactly


fitment sans rotor, should sit about flush with the rotor on

106_0016.jpg


money shots

106_0014.jpg


106_0013.jpg


Now I just need to pick up some washers & tires, shave down the caliper pins, clean up a few things and the put it ll together for real. I think I'll save the good brake fluid until I'm sure these calipers are good, plus I'd like to remove & paint them up a bit better when I get coilovers.
 

tubasteve

New member
can you explain "installed 3rd rear seat belt"? and show with pictures? not that any of my fat ass friends could fit there, but if what im guessing is correct
 

underscore

Well-known member
It came with the car, I think it's some weird JDM thing. There's basically a lap belt that uses the same mounting bolts as the left and right seats, the straps even come out of the same holes. I'm pretty sure it's something someone did on their own and not a factory thing. I was just going to use it to strap down a fire extinguisher.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Well I know it's an OEM Toyota belt but is it really for the GTFour? I'd doubt that you can use the same anchor bolt for two different seatbelts - plus who the hell would want to sit up on that hump?
 

underscore

Well-known member
Well then I stand corrected. I guess it's for families with 3 kids where one is either a lot shorter or loved a lot less than the other 2 :lol:
 

nebvan

New member
How do you make the waterspay work? Did you rewire it, with a new relay or just add a switch to the existing wire??
 

underscore

Well-known member
I first tried applying power to the small plug that was tucked near the motor, apparently my relay was shot and that relay is 1) expensive 2) only used on the RC in Japan and a couple cars in Europe, making a replacement hard to find, and 3) buried in the bloody fender behind the corner light, so I snipped the larger wires that run from the relay to the motor and wired it to a new relay near the battery. Eventually I'll get a new relay from Europe and wire it back the way it was originally wired, which would just need a small switch and the right kind of plug.

Keep in mind you also need to redo the hose so that it shoots out the sprayers, a write-up I read online said this can be done with the bumper still on but I can't see how on earth anyone could do it with the bumper attached to the car.

Oh and lastly be sure to use a momentary push button, not a switch, as the pump is very powerful and shoots A LOT of windshield washer fluid (I'm not sure if the OEM relay is supposed to restrict the power to it or something).
 

nebvan

New member
Are you sure that the relay behind the corner light is the one for sprayer.... I think it's the one for the windshield nozzle... 'Cause if I follow the wire from the sprayer pump, it doesn't seem to be plug into it...correct me if I'm wrong but it look to goes straight on the harness to the main fuse box...
 

underscore

Well-known member
The main pump should go to the main harness, the extra pump on the bottom for the sprayer went up to this relay, which went back down to the small plug I found. I think my relay was damaged when the car was hit on that corner, try hooking a 12V wire and a ground wire to the small white plug and listen for the pump if your hoses aren't swapped yet.

Also, if you look at the parts diagrams, "85942‑33010 RELAY, CLEANER CONTROL" is listed as "Not Applicable" for the regular GTFour, and on the diagram itself it has a small * next to it, denoting that it is only on the RC. From the looks of things it mounts to the top of the tank, I'm not sure if you can drop the washer tank without removing the fender though. It also looks like you had to have a rear wiper (which I guess was optional only on the RC?) to get the tank that allows this all to be hooked up, so any RC without a factory rear wiper may not have the bumper squirter pump.

That relay is listed as $178.19 (ouch) and the pump itself is $153.96.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Small update, just ordered Kuhmo SPT's in a 245/40R17 off 1010tires.coma rear strut tower bar off eBay, a new turbo & near rear rotors off here. I got the calipers pins filed down (grinder > file) and the drivers front brakes all buttoned up. I've been busy at work lately but hopefully this week I can get the passenger side together, then once my tires/turbo/rear rotors arrive button it all up and get it driving. The RallyArmor flaps will wait until I get/build some coilovers, as where I place them will depend on my ride height.

Oh, and hopefully get the meth kit in as well. Too much to do, too little time!

edit: new O2 sensor for the wideband is on the way as well. Speaking of, I need to find some good electric gauges, hopefully for under $100 a piece (AEM and Defi are too steep for me).

edit 2: added some new plans to the list

edit 3: just won $300 to a local shop that specializes in high-end European cars. Good thing I've got those Porsche brakes! Time to stock up on brake pads.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Thanks! I`ll snap some pics in a few minutes. I may have just delayed myself again in the interest of getting coilovers.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Just for you Jon:

P6032092.jpg


P6032093.jpg


I might need a lip roll
P6032094.jpg


all torn apart
P6032097.jpg


Starting the Meth install
P6032098.jpg


Has anyone else got meth injection in their 185? I'm curious as to how people run the line.
 

underscore

Well-known member
To do list:

Install AEM meth kit
HFH replacement
Clean intercooler
Install passenger front brakes
Install rear brake lines
Install rear brake rotors
Replace O2 sensor x2
Compression test
Install clutch line
Reinstall turbo/manifold/dp
Reinstall rad
Complete intercooler sprayer wiring
Order & install coilovers (Megan springs in the meantime)
Brake flush
Install RallyArmor flaps
Install aluminum cluster surround

And probably some other stuff I'm forgetting. I'm likely going to leave everything but the HFH/turbo bits for a while, as the Fathers Day Show and Shine is next weekend and I need to get it driveable by then. If I have to, I'll button it all back up, drive it down, drive it back, then tear it all back down again. I figure there's not much point swapping the rear brake lines only to yank them out again when I do the coilovers and rear bushings.
 
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