1991 RC recovery mission - "Rebel Scum"

underscore

Well-known member
After stripping someones crappy plastidip off, then filling some damage with JB weld, then scuffing, then 2 coats of primer, I did the first wheel with 3 coats of paint yesterday. Tomorrow it gets the clear coat, and the other 3 will get the JB weld treatment.

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underscore

Well-known member
Yes sir it is! I was aiming for Porsche Acid Green and I think this is pretty dang close.

Sweat equity is right, between the scrubbing and sanding and hand mounting the tires it's been a fair bit of work but so far this one has turned out nicely. I'm excited to see them on the car.
 

Roreri

Active member
That looks like the road I'll be going down with the grizzled old OZ Cronos on my Lorelei. I keep eyeballing those dark silver Enkei PF05s though for my summer tires, too.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Eventually I'll have to do my Cronos as well. They were quite rough when I got the car and they haven't improved lol. I may pay a professional to do those though. The PF05 suits these cars really well imo, I'd love a set of those should I go back to having 17s again.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Yesterday I installed the Hella 003427811 headlight conversion kit, I didn't snap any pictures but 92RC has some nice ones in the conversion thread here: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=53968

Even in the daylight I could see they're going to be a big improvement over regular sealed beams. I'll just need to align my headlights, again.

Today I put 3 coats of clear on the first wheel, let it sit, and came back to whatever the cinnamon toast **** this is.

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This is the paint I used: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ru...key-lime-340-g-aerosol-spray-paint/1000777713

This is the clear I used: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ru...ss-clear-340-g-aerosol-spray-paint/1000666134

I followed the directions for the paint and waited 48 hours to do the clear. What did I do wrong?
 

Roreri

Active member
Well, it sure didn't adhere. It's hard to tell whether that's the primer or the topcoat delaminating from the surface.

At first blush, I wonder whether the sort of paint you got was the right thing and the right prep for the surface.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I found that exact paint from someone who used it for brake calipers but I'm not sure what they did for primer or clear (if anything). I've seen suggestions that I should either do the clear immediately after the colour (in the 1hr extra coat window) or wait far more than the 48hrs the can lists for it to fully cure. I'll have to come up with a plan before I do the other 3 wheels and then decide what to do about this one.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
underscore":58fys3jy said:
I found that exact paint from someone who used it for brake calipers but I'm not sure what they did for primer or clear (if anything). I've seen suggestions that I should either do the clear immediately after the colour (in the 1hr extra coat window) or wait far more than the 48hrs the can lists for it to fully cure. I'll have to come up with a plan before I do the other 3 wheels and then decide what to do about this one.

I'd say go back for the plasti-dip on the rims if possible. When you primered, did you use self-etching?
 

Dan McBoost

Member
Awesome! Mind letting me/us know what rear spats they are from? Which subaru / where did you get them from? I would love to add a set to mine too!! TIA and looks amazing!

underscore":249iqflc said:
The rear spats are finally going on. My rattle can job is pretty crappy but I'm not too worried about paint quality at the moment. Mounting was fairly easy, I trimmed the rear a bit to fit the Celica bumper and the tab in the front a little to match the wheel well. Mounting was pretty easy since one of the Subaru mounts lines up with a factory screw in the Celica bumper and the other one lines up with a hidden part of the bumper skin.
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underscore

Well-known member
They're from a second gen Subaru Impreza. I believe the ones I have are for an STi but most people use 04-07 WRX sedan or wagon spats which are slightly different. I might be wrong though as I'm not a Subaru person.
 

underscore

Well-known member
After a long hiatus it's finally back on the road since there's a TSD event coming up soon. There's a few small things that have popped up that I'll need to fix at some point, the front right speakers aren't working, the inner handle on the new door is sticky, the fuel system relays still aren't working properly. But the one issue that I'll really have to fix this week: there's no heat in the cabin. I'm guessing the diverter on the firewall is stuck because it doesn't move no matter what I set the AAC to. If I can't free it up I'll unhook the cable and just manually set it to max for now (assuming that will work?)

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I might also need to move the roof lights. You can see in the picture that it's shining into the windshield as well. I'm not sure if it was only an issue because the glass was all iced up but I didn't have this problem when they were on my Jeep. The difference being on there they sit further back, so worst case I can just scoot the setup towards the rear until it's not causing glare. They aren't aimed yet which might have been part of it.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Aside from a few minor hiccups the car survived the TSD without incident. The roof lights kept causing glare until they were pushed as far back as the roof rack could go, which I wasn't really a fan of. All the weight of the full size spare + tools + gear in the trunk had the rear end sagging quite a bit still even with the spring helpers in, so I snagged a roof basket to get the weight forward and give me a different way to mount the lights. I flipped the wind deflector under the bottom so it blocks the light from going downwards and so far it seems to work well. If it doesn't I have a backup plan to just use an LED light bar mounted low under the basket, but I'd rather have the more era-correct KC's up there.

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underscore

Well-known member
I keep having issues with the alternator not charging the battery when I first start the car. So far it's always come back after a couple minutes but it's not exactly confidence inspiring. This alt has already been rebuilt twice so I'm on the fence about throwing more parts at it. I also don't like that it uses the less common round plug. I have a spare 5SFE alt with the oval plug so I ordered the parts to make an adapter harness. That'll let me try this 5SFE alt and give me the greatest flexibility if I ever need to replace it in a pinch. Even small town auto shops should have something if I can use pretty much anything for a Toyota car from a 15 year span.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
underscore":214746ut said:
I keep having issues with the alternator not charging the battery when I first start the car. So far it's always come back after a couple minutes but it's not exactly confidence inspiring. This alt has already been rebuilt twice so I'm on the fence about throwing more parts at it. I also don't like that it uses the less common round plug. I have a spare 5SFE alt with the oval plug so I ordered the parts to make an adapter harness. That'll let me try this 5SFE alt and give me the greatest flexibility if I ever need to replace it in a pinch. Even small town auto shops should have something if I can use pretty much anything for a Toyota car from a 15 year span.

In my Lazarus thread, I replaced my 3sgte alternator with a 5fse. everything fit perfectly, but the amps were too low to actually charge, so just make sure you go the right amperages before you go throwing that in and then throwing some wrenches. i ended up buying an alternator off rockauto which worked perfectly fine.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Good catch, poking around on RockAuto looking at the pictures I did notice a lot of them are 70-80A and ours should be 90A. I'll have to double check what the one I have is good for.

Were you able to get the cooling duct on? I only really drive my car in cool weather so it's less of a concern for me than it used to be but I still like to have it on there if I can.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
underscore":3p6ixqtm said:
Good catch, poking around on RockAuto looking at the pictures I did notice a lot of them are 70-80A and ours should be 90A. I'll have to double check what the one I have is good for.

Were you able to get the cooling duct on? I only really drive my car in cool weather so it's less of a concern for me than it used to be but I still like to have it on there if I can.

Yes, but I had to take the studs out of the old alternator in order to get the duct back on. The bolts that come with it are single-sided. I ended up removing it regardless, but yeah keep the studs off the OG alternator in order to get it back on.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Gotcha, thanks Tippo.

Both last night and this morning it was colder than usual (-20*C ish) and the alt wasn't charging when I first started the car. I gave it a couple minutes to warm up but charging only came back after shutting the car off and then starting it again. It worked immediately after restarting the car. That makes me wonder if it's the alt causing problems or one of the other wires to it? Maybe this is a bad assumption though. Every start afterwards, when the car is at least a little warm still, it's totally fine.

It's hard to find details on how the regulators interact with the 3 wires plugged into it but from what I can tell the L wire is just for the warning light? I have a voltage gauge too so I know it's not just falsely triggering the light. The S wire appears to be feedback from the battery? And the IG wire looks to be power from the ignition switched common feed used to generate the initial magnetic field?

Since plugging and unplugging stuff seemed to fix the fuel pump power issue I'm tempted to just unplug everything in this circuit a couple times and see what happens. I hate intermittent problems to begin with, but I really don't like having to diagnose something that's only a problem well below freezing lol.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Another cold day and the alt was actually whining this time when I started it. I don't like just throwing parts at it when this alt *should* be good but I'm not about to start doing diagnostics at -25, so I ordered a Denso reman from RockAuto.

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