700AWHP or Bust
- Thread starter BADNEWS
- Start date
brutekiller787
New member
Water/meth injection in there? Why not? You seem to have a reason for everything so why not water meth
BADNEWS
Member
brutekiller787":1vwq3iul said:
That I have never looked into it. I'm not sure whats better water/meth or E85. I guess I'm old school on my train of thought. I like to fill my tank with one type of fuel and that be it. Right now my main fuel used is 110 octane VP race gas. I can pump it in my car at the station down the road. If I ever make it to the dyno/track, I'll be using an oxygenated fuel like Q16 or VP Import.
If I start to drive the car more than I figured, I'll look harder into water/meth or buy E85 in bulk.
brutekiller787
New member
it's windsheild washer fluid. water drops your intake temp as it changes to steam, and methanol does the same but also increases octane. i don't think it's fuel specific though because i first saw it in a diesel magazine, now i see it on cars every once in a while. it's cheap and pretty easy to tune for, especially if you use it with a WOT switch.
and you don't put it in with fuel, you inject it post intercooler, usually right before the throttle body.
and you don't put it in with fuel, you inject it post intercooler, usually right before the throttle body.
underscore
Well-known member
1) you don't want to use washer fluid, especially if you're using it as a part of your tune as you have no clue what the mix is. 2) most people use it as an extra safety factor, not as a part of their tuning
brutekiller787
New member
i'm not saying to use it if you want to be precise about it, there still needs to be room for error, but if you head to the evo/dsm forums, they have been using it for a while with up to 50whp increases using water meth. diesels go back even farther.
an easy way to tell the methanol concentration is to look at the temp it's rated to. i think 50/50 is like -40f blue stuff
an easy way to tell the methanol concentration is to look at the temp it's rated to. i think 50/50 is like -40f blue stuff
Looks really good, but there are a few parts i would change\drop:
1: the crank pully ( from what i have seen, those do not have any harmonic balancing? would def use the stock one.
2: why do you need a fenspot overdrive powersteering pully ? ( waste of money!? )
3: don`t use the nology plug wires! they SUCK! ( try to lett the car run in a completly dark room and you will see why.. )
4: would use stock crossmember bushings, you need a little flex somewhere to keep drivetrain in one piece
5: if possible: try to get a thicker "stock" copper radiator.
6: don`t think that hks clutch will hold 700awhp..
7: get some poly bushings for rear sub frame. ( need some form of flex. )
8: would def use the 6466..
9: moroso oil pan.
I think this will be a NASTY car. and i am by no means trying to be a asshole here... just trying to contribute with what i have experienced tru the years of tuning..
1: the crank pully ( from what i have seen, those do not have any harmonic balancing? would def use the stock one.
2: why do you need a fenspot overdrive powersteering pully ? ( waste of money!? )
3: don`t use the nology plug wires! they SUCK! ( try to lett the car run in a completly dark room and you will see why.. )
4: would use stock crossmember bushings, you need a little flex somewhere to keep drivetrain in one piece
5: if possible: try to get a thicker "stock" copper radiator.
6: don`t think that hks clutch will hold 700awhp..
7: get some poly bushings for rear sub frame. ( need some form of flex. )
8: would def use the 6466..
9: moroso oil pan.
I think this will be a NASTY car. and i am by no means trying to be a asshole here... just trying to contribute with what i have experienced tru the years of tuning..
801Alltrac
New member
:shoots:
:twisted:BayAreaAT®":36nrnjh5 said:I'm definately taking note...
sleeper":22327y6r said:
Agree 88.9%
(#4) Wont running Poly engine Mounts negate the need to worry about solid cross-member mounts since flex will come from those?
I know my personal build is not complete yet and not at the same level (nor am I insane enough yet to build to that level), but I've worked on and around and in 800+ HP mr2s before and a lot of this stuff applies...
Here are some of my big pieces of advice:
-re-torque your head studs after 200 and 1000 miles, stock floppy engine mounts help to keep bolts from backing out, including head studs. Put thread locker on just about everything thats not inside the oil of your engine, and use a paint marker to verify all bolts are properly torqued and thread-locked.
-Buy some prevailing torque or locking exhaust studs. Stock bolts WILL back out on you guaranteed... especially on a custom exhaust manifold.
-Be prepared to crack your exhaust manifold most likely around the wastegate areas a few times... even the best and greatest stainless manifolds will probably crack a few times before you get all the stress points figured out.
-Get some locking bolts (Stage8 makes good ones) for your front CV joints... the extra vibration likes to back them out and then spray your underside with axle grease.
-Here is the biggie... Have you thought of using a higher flow 5S oil pump from the Solara instead of just shimming your pump? most people will tell you that overriding the stock pump values is not wise... Flow is more important than pressure is, if your pump in the past was not delivering enough oil to the bearings and caused bearing starvation, it was probably not a function of the pressure valve not being high enough, but rather the oil pump not being capable of flowing enough oil through it at max RPM and high temperatures. I dont feel like looking up the part numbers for this, but Id suggest going here:http://atsracing.com/Parts/Details/E-OILPUMP. This will solve your oil starvation issues, NOT shimming your pump...
RedCelicaTRD
Moderator
How about you guys let him build his car how he wants to. It looks to me like he has things planned out pretty well and is fully capable of making his own decisions on parts. Considering that he has been working on a 3s motor in his own car since before 80% of the people on this board even had AllTracs, I'm pretty sure he knows what's going to work for him.
BADNEWS
Member
I don't mind advise from others if they state their experience as to why something didn't work. Like sleeper and I have been chatting privately, and found out some interesting things he has gone through. If someone makes a suggestion from hear/say. Like the wrist pins. If you told me about you or showed me a thread where someone broke one. I would strongly look into it more because I don't want to ruin this motor. But from what I have seen, ATS just started using them kinda like a sales push cause Wisco made the pistons for them. I'm not saying ATS is bad. But they are a company. And I'm sure the pistons and pins are better. But do you really need it? Seems more like they are selling you that they have something different then others more then solving a true problem.
Like with my solid rear subframe mounts. I made two sets before anything was available. My buddy wrote a CAD program and made 8. Pat was the other buyer for his car back in like 2005ish. He has been running them since. No one is telling him to change them.
I also chatted with Pat about the Moroso oil pan. He help them design it on his car I guess. He told me the main thing it helps is extremely hard right turns. That is where oil starvation could happen. Not acceleration. The Moroso pan is an easy fix for the right turn problem.
And the pictures are of me shimming my ATS pump. Which after buying I believe is just a factory 5S pump. I didn't buy a 5S pump and compare but it has the hook up for the crank trigger and everything for a 98+ Camry.
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~pump~assy~oil~15100-74030.html
I believe it's that. You guys want me to buy that from a Toyota dealership. Take photos next to my ATS one and then return it?
Like with my solid rear subframe mounts. I made two sets before anything was available. My buddy wrote a CAD program and made 8. Pat was the other buyer for his car back in like 2005ish. He has been running them since. No one is telling him to change them.
I also chatted with Pat about the Moroso oil pan. He help them design it on his car I guess. He told me the main thing it helps is extremely hard right turns. That is where oil starvation could happen. Not acceleration. The Moroso pan is an easy fix for the right turn problem.
And the pictures are of me shimming my ATS pump. Which after buying I believe is just a factory 5S pump. I didn't buy a 5S pump and compare but it has the hook up for the crank trigger and everything for a 98+ Camry.
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~pump~assy~oil~15100-74030.html
I believe it's that. You guys want me to buy that from a Toyota dealership. Take photos next to my ATS one and then return it?
brutekiller787
New member
Water/ meth?
One of my old modified or super streets has an evo making like 60 extra hp at near stock levels( stock turbo that is). Ill have to check but to me its seems like duh.
One of my old modified or super streets has an evo making like 60 extra hp at near stock levels( stock turbo that is). Ill have to check but to me its seems like duh.
brutekiller787
New member
it doesn't have to be used purely for octane boost either. it cools the intake, and cooler air no matter what engine you run in, is better for combustion
alcoholinjectionsystems.com has a lot of info.
alcoholinjectionsystems.com has a lot of info.
He doesnt really need it, good intercooling and high octane fuel dont really need water/meth injection. Plus as long as he keeps an eye on his knock controller while he is tuning, there really isnt much to worry about. IMHO, water meth is great for when you want a cheap solution for having a crappy intercooler... When you have a big-boy intercooler, returns become diminishing...
(sidebar post 1000 woo hoo!)
(sidebar post 1000 woo hoo!)