FC Zach's AllTrac

FC Zach

Active member
abeans":4hv1k0uz said:
Jeez only 6 years and they dried up. What brand did you use?

Beck Arnley for cam seals and Mahle for the pump o-ring. . Beck parts are typically quality items and most times are OE parts that are repackaged. . Not sure why they went south so quick but it is what it is. I have no previous experience with Mahle but I assumed it was a quality brand.

This time I went with SKF for the seals and a brand I never heard of for the pump o-ring, Apex. . The o-ring appears to be made of a different and better material, so this may not happen again (I hope LOL).
 

Magroo

New member
I tend to stick with OEM or Felpro but I've had good success with SKF and Timkin.

Replacing my valve stem seals and springs are taking me a bit longer than I estimated. It took me 3 hours to replace on cylinder 1 today. It started to go faster towards the end.

Still trying to figure out the best method for using this tool I have to compress the valve springs without removing the head. I stuffed the cylinder full of rope at bottom dead center then rotated the engine to compress it in to the valves.

Since I'm out of work for a few weeks I'm not gonna kill myself getting it back together. Tomorrow I'll aim for 8 valves on 2 and 3.

Sorry in advance for cluttering up your thread I dont have one of my own lol.
 

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underscore

Well-known member
abeans":2ceuhnj0 said:
Jeez only 6 years and they dried up. What brand did you use?

With a car that wasn't overly common to begin with I'm guessing at this point a lot of parts stock could've been sitting on the shelves for a while before being sold.
 

FC Zach

Active member
While I was elbow deep in this mess (as well as not having enough projects during this pandemic, so at this point I'm looking for things to fix), I thought I'd address the power steering pump leak I had accepted as "normal". . That and I would really like to park in the garage without a drip pan :) I placed an order for the reman pump before even considering removing mine to inspect/repair.

The part was scheduled to arrive yesterday so I started dismantling everything to remove my pump (man, they sure put it in a convenient spot didn't they!) and was able to get it out with very little fuss, I had more trouble removing the top (pivoting) bolt than anything else. Anyways, I got it out and immediately inspected the source of the leak which was a simple o-ring replacement. I swapped the pump anyways and decided to keep my core as a good spare or to sell in case anyone may need one in the future.

It's tight in there but really not that bad of a job. . Definitely better than the timing belt!
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FC Zach

Active member
Something happened during my cam seal replacement that I wish on no one. . while I was torquing the timing belt tensioner (hydraulic, not manual) bolts, instead of a gratifying click from the wrench, I got the dreaded feel of stripped threads on one of the bolts. Immediately assuming the worst and that I was going to have to remove the engine to gain access to repair the threads, I was actually able to do it installed. I had to use an adapter for my tap, if it wasn't for that I probably would have had to pull the engine. Kudos to the adapter, it definitely saved the day!!

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For the inquiring minds, the mounting surface for the tensioner is thick, thick enough that Toyota should have used longer bolts for it. So with that said, if you strip a bolt, make threads and add a longer bolt.
 

autojumbled

New member
FC Zach":13e2jyqy said:
Something happened during my cam seal replacement that I wish on no one. . while I was torquing the timing belt tensioner (hydraulic, not manual) bolts, instead of a gratifying click from the wrench, I got the dreaded feel of stripped threads on one of the bolts. Immediately assuming the worst and that I was going to have to remove the engine to gain access to repair the threads, I was actually able to do it installed. I had to use an adapter for my tap, if it wasn't for that I probably would have had to pull the engine. Kudos to the adapter, it definitely saved the day!!

49773565592_8dacdf2933_z.jpg


For the inquiring minds, the mounting surface for the tensioner is thick, thick enough that Toyota should have used longer bolts for it. So with that said, if you strip a bolt, make threads and add a longer bolt.
LOL! This exact thing happened to me and is the reason my GT4 has not been on the road since November.
I was doing a cam belt change after it snapped and same as you, tightening the tensioner pulley when the wrench just went free!

I've gone overboard though and pulled the head off as my solution after I tried every trick in the book to be able to drill and tap it with the engine in place. Finally got around to it this Easter weekend and used a recoil kit.
The amount of effort it's taken just to sort this thread is infuriating!
Has given me a chance to clean up the engine and sort out other bits like snapped exhaust manifold studs etc...

Glad you manager to get yours sorted without ripping the engine apart!
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Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

FC Zach

Active member
Oh wow! That's a lot of work for one (what should be quick and easy) repair! At least you got to address other things while at it. I'm very happy I didn't have to go this far!
 

warracer

New member
I removed the PS pump from mine aswell, god I hated doing that haha , so little clearance with the engine tilted back.
 

FC Zach

Active member
I get everything in place and primed with new fluid, new belts installed too. . All this just to find that the pressure relief valve it stuck and the pump isn't doing anything, so I have manual steering for now. Always something! Now to find motivation to pull it apart again :roll:

On the bright side, no leaks :)
 

Magroo

New member
Did you remove the ps pump without unbolting the ball joint and pulling the axle from the hub? If so I need to learn this black magic.

I rebuilt my pump last year and havent had a need to remove it since but every time I've tried either the tie rod or axle was in the way. I always found it easier to unbolt the ball joint and axle.

On a side note I finished my valve springs and valve stems seals without removing the head. First day took my 3 hours just to figure out the best method for using the tools. Seond day I got 2 and 3 done in about 3 hours. Last day I got 4 done and had it almost back together in about another 3 hours.

Of course I was off by 1 tooth on the crank my first attempt and getting the timing belt back on. Done this job like 8 times and I still haven't gotten it right on first attempt. :)
 

FC Zach

Active member
The best way I found to remove the pump (without following instructions in the manual) was to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, turn the steering wheel full right, disconnect the high pressure line from the top, *remove the 12mm screw for the feed hose from the pump (have drip pan ready, this will make a big mess once you pull the line), and remove the vacuum advance thingy. Then the pump and hose will exit through the tie rod opening. Much easier than disassembling the ball joint and axle in my opinion.

Ha ha, nice! Yeah, this happened to me too. . No matter what angles I double and triple checked to ensure the gears were aligned to the head, it was still off and I had to take it apart again. . Which is likely why I had to repair the tensioner threads.

*Edit: forgot to mention this step I did.
 

FC Zach

Active member
I pulled the replacement pump and checked what tech support suggested and no issue we found so I just sent it back as defective, I wasn't going to waste anymore time or fluid on it. . I reinstalled mine that I repaired with a new o-ring and all is well so far :)
 

Celicaatrac

New member
FC Zach":tlj9fajq said:
I pulled the replacement pump and checked what tech support suggested and no issue we found so I just sent it back as defective, I wasn't going to waste anymore time or fluid on it. . I reinstalled mine that I repaired with a new o-ring and all is well so far :)

That’s awesome!

Sometimes it’s the simplest things that fix a problem
 

FC Zach

Active member
I received and installed ATS Racing cam gears yesterday and I got everything buttoned up today. Ater a long joy ride, I really like the little gain from retarding the exhaust cam slightly. . It made a noticable improvement.

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FC Zach

Active member
I also recently got a couple packs of poly bushings from a friend for the rear of a 185 (and possibly others) so with that said if anyone is interested in a pack I'll part with the other pack (one pack will do both sides).

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