ST165 swapping to ST205

So currently I own a 1988 ST165. I've owned the car for 5 months now. The car has a gen 2 3sgte but is still running the ST165 ECU and harness...the P.O. did a terrible job at the swap, now i'm trying to fix it. Recently the car has developed a slight leak in the head gasket. That along with the low compression and terrible blow by have made me decide to just do a complete engine swap and start over new. So now I have a couple questions for you guys about the swap. I'm looking at a 205 engine and AWD transmission (from what i've heard the third gen is the best, what are opinions on the 4th gens?)...as far as I know the trans/engine is a direct swap right? I can use my current axles, driveline etc right? I know that I will need to extend the RHD harness but approximately how much do I need to extend it? does anyone make a patch harness for the 205? Also is it best to keep my FMIC setup or to use the WTA TMIC that comes with the engine? The car is daily driven and not used for racing. I do eventually plan on going with a standalone ecu and building the engine but for now its going to remain stock. any and all advice/opinions are welcome. Thanks in advance for any help!

Here are some current pictures of my car...

Does anybody use this forum much anymore? I've posted several times and have never gotten replies...

Yeah man I do!!

What's the budget on your upgrade?

Cheap, (ish), is Gen 3 as the rods and pistons are strong for an increase in boost use stock ecu.

Expensive is Gen 4 stronger block but weaker rods so you have to go for an upgrade of rods and pistons if you are gonna start pushing for more power.

Check my build,

St215 motor + st205 gearbox into St165 JDM build

Cheers

Two things:

- This section of the forum is more for showing off your build than asking questions.

- Most of your questions above have already been answered elsewhere and can be found by searching.

Otherwise, its nice to see another person getting an Alltrac back to good running condition, so keep it up!

-Charlie

Wow it has been a long time since I update this! I'm not sure where to begin...I will copy posts from my build thread on ST162.net http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.p ... ALl-TRAC!!!

Well with the ODO approaching 180K miles and it burning oil like crazy I decided it was time for an engine swap. I recently purchased a JDM Gen 3 3SGTE to drop in.

Halfway through pulling the old motor out I found a buyer on the here for the old engine/wiring/ECU so that is gone already. I later learned that the engine had been rebuilt at some point.

Anyway. Engine out and waiting for new engine to go in


[url=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/scottjackson1209/media/Celica%20All%20Trac/20130724_060440_zps458b15b7.jpg.html]


Once the new engine arrived I began combing over it to see what was missing.
Immediately I noticed that I was missing most of the fuse box. My old fuse box was sold with the engine/wiring so I went to the wreckers and picked up a wiring harness and fuse box off of an 88 GT.

Also I noticed that I'm missing the MAP sensor.

I've contacted the person who supplied the engine and we are in the process of acquiring another one.

anyway here are just a couple pics I snapped of the engine real quick








I'm currently working on the wiring part of the swap. I plan on dropping the new engine in hopefully next weekend. I will keep you all up to date!

9/3/13

UPDATE!!!

ST205 Engine is officially in the car and bolted up! I could have done this earlier but I wanted to have easier access to all the wiring. The wiring is about 90% complete. It should start coming together quickly now. Hopefully I dont hit any other obstacles.

Unfortunately I don't have pictures right now but I will take some when I get a chance. I lost track of time while working on the car and was late for work today so I didnt have a chance to take pics.

All that is left is connecting axles/driveline. I need to get a new power steering hose and a few other odds and ends then complete the wiring...I'm also swapping out a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump after I get it running. I thought about doing the fuel pump at the same time but decided not to...If for some reason it wont start I know its something on the engine side and not the fuel pump side if I wait...I'm just playing it safe!

Valve cover, throttle body support, and exhaust heat shield painted in ceramic coating/paint






almost done!

10/20/13
Been a while since I've updated this...I got the car running last week and took it on a short drive around the block! I'm in love all over again! lol I've got a couple CEL codes i'm trying to clear and I"m trying to make sure that all my vacuum line are routed correctly.

I am having issues getting my coolant system burped. I try squeezing the top rad hose with the car running and I get some air bubbles out but it doesn't seem like it is doing much as far as getting air out of the lines...any secrets?

I've got a major exhaust leak just after the down pipe so it is incredibly loud, hopefully a new exhaust can be done soon! I will try and post video of it soon.

10/23/13
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rKg...e_gdata_player

Quick video of my car with the new swap. This was recorded on my way home from work at night. Sorry for the background noise.

10/28/13
Here are some pics from when the swap was first finished

http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/scott ... b.jpg.html



Got my fogs installed finally in case you didnt notice!


Here are my corner lights tinted.


This is how it currently looks. The tape around the IC piping is an insulation tape for keeping out temps of up to 700 Degrees Fahrenheit. that should be plenty efficient!





Wheels painted


Brakes are also painted red as well...Not sure I have a pic of it right now but it can kinda be seen here.



Here is a cold start video...It's still kinda loud...I need to get an exhaust leak fixed. I was just starting it to pull it into the garage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfO-KDf2YRM

It's coming together great! I have a 3 inch down pipe and a boost controller on the way now. Boost is currently down to 8 psi through all gears thanks to a broken turbo vsv that keeps boost at 8 psi in 1st gear. The boost controller will fix that issue

11/10/13

Look what I got!!










This is after having it on for a few days. It's amazing how blue it got so quickly! (cant really tell because of the flash on the camera)




Also got the boost controller on...Was running 16psi but it was a little scary on the wet roads lol I could break all four tires loose from a rolling start! Now running 12psi seems much better!

Quick video
http://youtu.be/kD9dU5h6Reg

Just a pic of my alltrac next to a friends 300Z


New gauge lights!

3/24/14
BIG UPDATE! (Pic Intensive)

It's been quite a while since I've done an update on here. the car started getting scary to drive with how bad the bushings were. I would find it wandering into other lanes constantly. So I decided to do a complete polyurethane bushing swap. and fill my rear diff cushion with liquid polyurethane.

Here are the bushing I received from GT4-Racing.eu









Here are some pics from before I started. You can see that there is almost nothing left of the rear diff cushion.




Pic of the rear subframe with new bushings installed.


New rear diff cushion.




the last picture is after driving on it for 2 weeks. these pictures also show where I had to shave it down, I filled it slightly over the edge to make up for any shrinkage and then had to shave it down to be flush.

these pictures are of the bushings after driving for about 2 weeks on them.




So the exhaust leak I had after doing the swap just kept getting worse and worse until it finally completely broke.


that has since been fixed, here is a cold start video with the new exhaust installed
http://youtu.be/QQubxu8VGxg

Also decided I hated where my gauges were.
OLD location-this picture is from when I first bought the car. all of that wiring has since been cleaned up


New location



Also got an alignment done and installed some decals from GT4-racing.eu to give me +5HP lol


Most of the bushing I i pulled out were so old and damaged they basically fell apart. there was nothing left but the metal piece for the front sway bar bushings as well...with the kit I also got new sway bar links but I didnt take pictures of those.

Celica st165 with st205 swap hard launch(1): http://youtu.be/qWnn_-HcTfo

Here is a launch video. Just thought it would be cool to record. The smoke is tire smoke not from my exhaust lol let's clear that up now

205 swapped 165 walk around and exhaust: http://youtu.be/BP01N4wOqJM
Here is a quick walk around and exhaust clip.






Celica st165 with st205 swap hard launch(1): [url=http://youtu.be/qWnn_-HcTfo]http://youtu.be/qWnn_-HcTfo[/url]

Here is a launch video. Just thought it would be cool to record. The smoke is tire smoke not from my exhaust lol let's clear that up now

205 swapped 165 walk around and exhaust: [url=http://youtu.be/BP01N4wOqJM]http://youtu.be/BP01N4wOqJM[/url]
Here is a quick walk around and exhaust clip.

[url=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/scottjackson1209/media/Celica%20All%20Trac/20140706_212948_zpsex946s4c.jpg.html][img]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i368/scottjackson1209/Celica%20All%20Trac/20140706_212948_zpsex946s4c.jpg[/url]



[/img]

So those updates bring me to my current situation, on 8/18 I wrecked my Trac...




the accident split the radiator core support



I've worked on getting all of that straightened out and ordered a new radiator. I was under the impression that the ONLY difference between the ST185 and ST165 radiator was the water outlet for the turbo...unfortunately I found out that is not true...at least not for the Mishimoto ST185.

I recieved the radiator 2 days ago and immediately noticed something was wrong...The top radiator mounts don't line up at all (blue are where the ones on the radiator are, red are where the original mounts go.)


That wasn't the only problem, the radiator is about an inch wider than the cutout in the core support, the inlet and outlet are spaced apart farther, and the isolating pins on the bottom of the radiator are spaced farther apart.

So I started by figuring out the best spot to install the radiator

I shifted the radiator to the left and made the outlet to the engine line up with the inlet on the engine. that in turn shifted the inlet on the radiator to the left of the outlet on the engine which should be fine with the hoses I have.

That means that I had to cut out about an inch off of the core support
before:

After:

For some reason the edge of my pictures is getting cut off...

Anyway I then had to address the isolator pins on the bottom of the rad. the fell within the holes on the metal part of the bottom mounts but don't line up with the hole through the rubber bushing...So now to make some custom mounts and bushings!

I started by making a mold for the bottom bushings, the only thing I could find to carve it in was the Styrofoam that the radiator had in its box. I then filled the foam with the same polyurethane that I made my rear diff bushing out of.





This is what I looked like after getting MOST of the styrofoam off...you should see my garage right now lol


I will drill the hole for the pins where they need to be tomorrow...

Also fixed the top mounts, they pretty much fell apart when I took them off.






(had a bit of a spill lol)

Also did engine mounts


This is the polyurethane that I used for anyone that is curious




ready to mix and pour

Bumping this. Did you ever get the radiator fitted properly? Looking at alternatives myself for fitting a larger rad in my 165. Considering using a 205 Koyo unit but this is helpful too.