Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Talk about your project car here

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 1:41 am

littlemissalltrac wrote:Nice! Im glad your restoring it. Im in the same rust boat with my all trac and we will be starting to repair it very soon. I was up in the air about doing it but after seeing yours come back to life (your rust is worse than ours) I have alot more faith i can restore this. Did you guys run into any issues with the body needing any straitening or repair just because so much of the unibody was gone? I was worrying myself about structural integrity when having to replace so much metal.


Thank you. Ya I. Glad I'm fixing her up also there to rare to scrap it's just worth it to me. Glad my rust bomb gives you the confendence to make you start fixing yours. The rust we cut out was just nuts. We had to run a support brace from the front of the door frame to the back. Good thing we did cause the car looked like a wet noodle after we cut it all out. If you put the time into your car and drill out spot welds. You will find it so much easier to peice every thing in like factory. Honestly it looks very hard and then you start thinking what did I get my self into. Trust me if you cut out old rust drill spot welds out and use clean 90-93 celica rocker. Non convertible. It's like playing with big boy Lego's :P I think I'm going to be doing the passenger side my self with out the help of my buddy. I hate body work even painting. But the way things came apart and went in was like a no brainer. Think about it it's already preformed so you can't mess up body lines. If your floor is rusted out people won't see where the patching's are at. Unless carpet is not being used that's another story. The underside people won't see anything with bed liner. But anyway my car is super strong. Better than stock cause every thing inside my rocker (braces) are spot welded where toyota did cause I drilled out the spot welds. Then my buddy went ahead and ran beads of weld under overlapping brace that was spot welded. Like I said I will use 3 2x3" drop sections flipped to clear drive shaft and low enoff into the floor to not poke up trough the carpet. That's going to add over 80+ pounds but who cares my car will not flex period. I was lucky enoff all the owners used it as a dd. If It woulda got into the hands of a dude like me driving it hard like I do everything. That car woulda been toast. 8)
Members don't see the above ad. Register now - it's free!
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 1:45 am

mx6er2587 wrote:you're in pittsburgh? where abouts?


I'm really in beaver county I live in hopewell just off 376. You?
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby mx6er2587 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 2:58 pm

I'm in the south hills just 15 minutes out from downtown. There's another board member with a trac who lives just a few blocks from me.

I've got some rust (not nearly as bad as yours) in my driver side rear quarter. I've been trying without much success to find a solid replacement for it.
mx6er2587
Established Member
 
Posts: 1162
Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 12:08 am
Location: Pittsburgh PA

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:28 pm

mx6er2587 wrote:I'm in the south hills just 15 minutes out from downtown. There's another board member with a trac who lives just a few blocks from me.

I've got some rust (not nearly as bad as yours) in my driver side rear quarter. I've been trying without much success to find a solid replacement for it.


Yeah I'm about 20-30 minutes from downtown. That's awesome to know there are some owners close by. I shoulda jointed a long time ago. Just in September my buddy got a bunch of random people together to have a little car meet/cook out at the raccoon state park. Do you know where that is? It woulda been awesome to see some all tracs there. Ha the majority of the cars there where cobalt SS's. :rofl: There was only 3 yotas all of them being mr2s counting my buddies. I don't know maybe you have seen this mr2 before?
Image
Yeah my cars pretty bad but it's all going to be steel no fiberglass or anything. This pictures my Bottom rear quarter.
Image
Is your rust in the same area? This pictures is also driver side rear quarter into the lip of the fender. I have a guy up by Kennywood with a gt-s he is going to be cutting out both driver and passenger quarter skins. If I was you just call around to junk yards ask if they have 90-93 gt-s and go from there. I'm not sure but I'm most positive nothing flares out (wide body) on the lower half of all 5th gen celicas. Non convertible and I'm thinking even the coupe stays the same. I'm speaking from the door molding down. Coupes/hatch models (gt-st) have the same rockers. All trac and gt-s have the same rockers with the plastic moldings under them. But like I said I used rockers off a st coupe so. You can make anything work as long as you put the time into going to junk yards. I'm assuming your car is drive able so that alone will make it easer to matching it up once at the junk yard.
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby mx6er2587 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 8:32 pm

my rust is just behind the driver side door and is a result of a shitty accident repair early in the cars life. The panel is pretty wavy and there's so much filler in it that I was just going to replace the entire rear quarter if I can find one. So I'll need a gt-s or alltrac donor.

My car is almost drivable. I pulled the fuel rail out to replace some injector seals and have been doing some general clean up under the hood. I could have it put back together and running in a few hours if needed.

Never seen that mr2. That's a car I would remember. and yes I know where raccoon park is.
mx6er2587
Established Member
 
Posts: 1162
Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 12:08 am
Location: Pittsburgh PA

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby littlemissalltrac » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:08 pm

Do you have any pics of where you welded in the braces? What gauge and type of steel did you guys end up using? I read somewhere in the 22 gauge for the floor board and 18-20 for the body panels and they suggested using cold roll steel? Im still pretty novice at this but figured id see what you did to compare to what ive been reading.
Image
User avatar
littlemissalltrac
Club Member
 
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:17 pm
Location: Maine

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:02 am

littlemissalltrac wrote:Do you have any pics of where you welded in the braces? What gauge and type of steel did you guys end up using? I read somewhere in the 22 gauge for the floor board and 18-20 for the body panels and they suggested using cold roll steel? Im still pretty novice at this but figured id see what you did to compare to what ive been reading.



I just used rockers off a st coupe. The braces I was talking about come factory spot welded into the rocker. Once I drilled out all the spot welds the bracing is located between the outter and inner rocker panels. The first piece we welded in was the inner rocker with the floor still connected to the rocker. By doing this we where able to weld the inside and out side of the (inner rocker). Once that was lined up and in place we welded the stock flooring that was outta the st. The logic of doing this was to keep everything not looking like shit by butting up factory body parts to make it look like it's never been touched. Another reason is the stock floor is more than Likly going to be stronger than a flat piece of sheet metal. The only way to make that flat sheet not flex with out a bunch of Inpractical brakets is to make creases just like the stock floor is. That's a lot of work that's y I just bought a whole shell of a car and used what was needed. So now the inner rocker is in and the floor is in now we started the middle supports/braces.. All that consists of is spot welding them in. The only thing we did was run beads of weld across all the braces. But ya cold rolled for body work if u don't decide to buy a parts car. I paid 200 dollars for a ST cut everything out that I needed and got 284 dollars when I took it in for scrap. So honestly it's a very good Ideal.
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby littlemissalltrac » Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:03 pm

So the ST floor board worked for you? There not idential are they? Ive been looking at diagrams and reading and from what i could tell they were different because of the driveshaft clearance needed on the alltrac? I know the rockers seem to be identical but i was having a hard time finding anything to use for the floorboard (tho mine is not nearly as bad as yours. Did you have to redo your front swaybar mounts as well? Ill have to do those on mine and the rear /rear subframe mounts, any suggestions for those sections?
Image
User avatar
littlemissalltrac
Club Member
 
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:17 pm
Location: Maine

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 3:10 pm

littlemissalltrac wrote:So the ST floor board worked for you? There not idential are they? Ive been looking at diagrams and reading and from what i could tell they were different because of the driveshaft clearance needed on the alltrac? I know the rockers seem to be identical but i was having a hard time finding anything to use for the floorboard (tho mine is not nearly as bad as yours. Did you have to redo your front swaybar mounts as well? Ill have to do those on mine and the rear /rear subframe mounts, any suggestions for those sections?



The ST/GT floor is not the same but they are very close before the tunnel for the shaft. The st rockers are the same that's with out the flares tho. All that matters is that it's the same structure as the all tracs. Yes my front sway bar mounts are shot. I'm not to sure what I wanna do about the sway bar. Well I do know what I want to try to do but I'm not sure if I will have enoff clearance cause of the tail shaft. I would like to have the sway bar mounts connect to this.
Image
I want to run this tube from rocker to rocker as far forward as I can get it without having clearance issues. Basically I want to counter sink it through the floor. This support ( drop section ) will be flipped so the drop section will go with the contours of the shaft tunnel. I will weld it soild to the bulk heads of the rockers.
Image
That will be super strong. As far as your subframe mounts. Are you talking about on the frame of the car?
I don't have any repairs to do on the rear chassis. Surprisingly
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby littlemissalltrac » Mon Nov 18, 2013 4:07 pm

Here is my thread i have going (viewtopic.php?f=44&t=40532), has some pretty detailed pics through out the thread. You can see the rear subframe mount in question, the bolts that go from the body to attatch the subframe are gone as well so i need to figure out a way to attatch it now as well.

Here are some of the high rez shots i have, any suggestions you have for any of this would be helpful, ive never done body work before and i picked up a cheap mig welder and plan on doing it all myself slowly (and doing it right, im a firm believer in "if you want it dont right, do it yourself")

Once i get it in the garage its getting 100% gutted drivetrain/ engine wise and im going to start grinding down some areas to see what i really have left of the car. worst spots really are the front drivers floor pan area and the rear subframe mounts, the rest looks more like outter body panel type stuff thats just going to have to "look good".

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
User avatar
littlemissalltrac
Club Member
 
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:17 pm
Location: Maine

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:47 pm

littlemissalltrac wrote:Here is my thread i have going (viewtopic.php?f=44&t=40532), has some pretty detailed pics through out the thread. You can see the rear subframe mount in question, the bolts that go from the body to attatch the subframe are gone as well so i need to figure out a way to attatch it now as well.

Here are some of the high rez shots i have, any suggestions you have for any of this would be helpful, ive never done body work before and i picked up a cheap mig welder and plan on doing it all myself slowly (and doing it right, im a firm believer in "if you want it dont right, do it yourself")

Once i get it in the garage its getting 100% gutted drivetrain/ engine wise and im going to start grinding down some areas to see what i really have left of the car. worst spots really are the front drivers floor pan area and the rear subframe mounts, the rest looks more like outter body panel type stuff thats just going to have to "look good".

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


In pic 3 is that your sub mount under the trunk? If so how many outta 4 are shot and is pic 3 the worst? The bolts You can order I priced them and it's like 30 some for the short ones and 60 some for the longer ones and that's each. Nuts where like 2-5 dollars I for get. But I can't stress enoff that if you buy bolts that are not oem they need to be grade 10 or higher. You need to check this out first http://m.ebay.com/itm/281195289966?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1 I would buy them if I was you. I hear ya on the do it your self thing. It's hard to find a good shop that will not half ass stuff. From 1-10 and compared to my car how bad is the floor? Don't mind the rust on the welds. It's from water putting out fires from under coating.
Image
Rember this was turned into this with a ST
Image
Is your driveshaft tunnel good? As for the rockers yours are good enoff for welding up new skins on the out side. If I was you tho the one side with the small amount of rust inside take that pannel off to make sure it's legit. That's me tho. Funny story I've also never done body work before untill I got the all trac last year. Quick learner I guess :shrug: :smokes: but yeah let me know about them mounts. Maybe get some pictures of the underside of that mount.
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby littlemissalltrac » Tue Nov 19, 2013 8:09 pm

It does look like yours is quite a bit worse but its hard to tell from the pictures and i havent had the chance to get it into the garage yet to really have a good look at whats left of good metal. Maybe this coming weekend i will beable to get it moved. The plan is to 100% strip it down to the body and do a full restoration/ mild upgrade (mostly because stock parts are hard to find). Last i saw it looked like the tunnel is good its just the floor pan section itself, and i believe just the drivers side, passenger side looks to be good but im sure you know its like a iceberg. You only see 10% till you go looking for the rest of it. Im def subscribed to this thread and ill let you know if i have any updates on mine at all.
Image
User avatar
littlemissalltrac
Club Member
 
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:17 pm
Location: Maine

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:50 am

Just started the other rocker tonight before I went to work. It's coming out pretty good she will be ready in now time!! :D Here are some pictures I took comment and enjoy.
Image
Small hole to repair. Next picture is what I cut out.
Image
Old rocker lined up with new rocker.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Spot weld before
Image
After
Image
Spot weld drill bits they are life savers
Image
Rocker skin off along with someone else's shit fiberglass job!!
Image
Image
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Tue Nov 26, 2013 8:08 am

More rusted rocker
Image
This was the only peice of the outter rocker the rest was roofing tin fiberglass and wood screws??? :crazy:
Image
The line marked just below the door hinge mount will be cut out carefully. The goal here is to cut the first layer of metal. The main support is so close to that outer layer that I'm only cutting it with a hand saw to be safe and not cut through it. :cry: The tight areas I will use a Dremel.
Image
Image
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

Re: Rust restoration/suspension up grade

Postby AtracYota91 » Tue Nov 26, 2013 11:21 am

I plan on cutting out the spare tire compartment and welding a flat bottom in its place. I will cut a rectangle around the circle in order to weld a nice sheet of 18 gauge steel in. I will use 1"x1" angle for supporting the 20 gallon fuel cell. :P
Image
Here's a ugly example of what she will look like.
Image
The bottles are for fun at a push of a button!! :evil: I won't have it hooked anytime soon. I will mount them and plumb lines while the car is striped. That way every thing can be nice and clean tucked away. Anyway one bottle is motor and the other is intercooler. I will use CO2 for that spray bar. Areas for my 2"x3"drop sections. I know I explained this before but here is a better ideal with these next pictures.
Once again this is the drop section picture it flipped with the drop pointing upward to clear the drive shaft.
Image
One section flipped and countersunk into the rear seats floor. Rite where the floor ends.
Image
Another flipped section butted up against the front seat mounts pictured here.
Image
And a flipped section up against the firewall countersunk into floor pan. This is critical there is a number of problems to run into. If to high it will not clear the heater/ac unit. If too low it will not clear the transfer case tail shaft. No matter what it will not clear the foot pedals. There's ways around that.
Image
Finally the paint. It's hard to tell what color it is in this picture. The color is pretty much a gun metal gray with almost a dark green haze to it.
Image
I didn't stir it all that well sorry. I am tossing around the ideal of painting it flat. :shrug: or the suspension painted this color but flat and the body gloss... I would really like some thought on the matter?
Ron

DD:06 F150 FX4(aka the gas hog)
Street:91 celica all tac(In the making)
Drag:95 celica GT 4linked ford 9"(project on hold)
AtracYota91
Club Member
 
Posts: 43
Images: 0
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:23 pm

PreviousNext

Return to My Project

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest