I wrote this quite a while ago, so there's nothing new here, but I figured I'd repost this in a thread for easy searching, since the question does come up.
So Here's my really basic write-up. If you have any questions, let me know. I'll do my best to answer them.
BASIC ENGINE REMOVAL WRITE UP
-Remove Hood and undercovers (If they're still there)
-Remove Battery, Drain all the fluids (Tranny, Engine, Coolant).
-Remove the Airbox and intake piping, as well as the intercooler.
-Remove the Throttle Cable from the throttle body
-Remove the Injector Solenoid Resistor and Fuel Pump Resistor (One Unit near the radiator under where the coolant hose runs)
- Remove the Radiator Reservoir Tank
- Remove the cruise control unit that's mounted to the strut brace, as well as the strut brace itself
- Remove all the electrical connecters between the main fuse box and the ignition coil on the drivers side firewall (There's also a bracket near the strut tower that needs removed). Make a note of where everying goes.
- Remove the charcoal canister (Be careful of the hoses on the bottom, they're hard to see)
-Disconnect the heater hoses and the speedo cable near the drivers side strut tower. 2 Heater hoses and 1 speedo cable that just unscrews using your fingers
- Disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the fuel filter. Be careful doing this as to not screw up this very important and expensive bolt, and also to catch all the leaking gas in a bucket or something.
- Disconnect the little connectors down around the fuel filter
- Remove the starter from the front of the transmission.
- Unmount the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny. Don't disconnect the tube from the cylinder
- Disconnect the shift cables from the tranny. These C-clips are a bitch, so don't lose them
- disconnect the tranny cooler lines from the underside front of the tranny
- Disconnect the MAP Sensor and all the vaccuum hoses from the firewall next to where the ignitor was. Remember to be labeling all these lines.
- disconnect all the vaccuum lines from the passenger side of the intake manifold
- Free up the wiring harness on the passenger side of the car. Keep taking notes of how this harness runs through the engine bay. It's tricky.
- Get under the passenger side dash, and pull the carpet back from the firewall/floor/center console corner. There's the ECU. Disconnect all the plugs from the ECU, and the one plug that goes to the AC system directly underneath the passenger side of the glovebox.
- Back to the engine bay. Undo the nuts that hold the wiring harness shroud to the firewall. Remove the harness by pulling from the engine bay side as a friend helps to guide it underneath the ridiculously packed dashboard.
- Remove the Side-to-side crossmember from under the front of the car.
- Remove the Front to back crossmember from under the car
- Disconnect the Downpipe from the rest of the exhaust, and tie the rest of the exhaust as far away from the center as possible. It's best, but very difficult, to remove the center section altogether.
- Remove that stupid damper and deflector from under the transfer case
- remove the front wheels and the axles. The axles will pretty much pull out of the transmission once you have the hub disconnected. Don't pull apart the little bolts on the axles, it's a real pain to get it all back together.
- remove the alternator, and all the accessory belts. Also remove the two vaccuum lines from under the PS pump, as well as the cylindrical sensor they attach to. This piece breaks super easy and is pretty expensive.
- Remove the AC compressor bolts, but don't undo the lines. Also remove the idler pulley bracket at this time.
- Remove the front and rear engine mounts
- BGB says to remove the primary cat here, but I didn't. It's up to you
- Remove both the right and left side engine mount stays.
- Time for an engine lift. Attach the lift to the two pre-designated hooks
- get it to a point where it will hold the engine, then remove the LH and RH side Engine mounts
- Start lifting the car up (very carefully, there is now NO support in the front of the vehicle), while lowering the engine down. Watch for grounds and stuff that you missed that may still be attached to the car. You will probably also need to hang the AC compressor up and out of the way with some wire at some point. At some point, you will need to remove the driveshaft from the transfer case, so just be aware. It pretty much slips out, and once it does, I suggest tying it back up under that car with some wire or something sturdy.
-as the engine nears the ground, put a homemade 2x4 and rotating wheel "engine dolly" under the engine and tranny to prevent it from being stuck under your car. I basically built a bigger furniture dolly, if you know what that is. I suppose a regular furniture dolly with possibly a sheet of plywood on it would be just fine. Keep in mind the lower the engine sits when fully removed, the less you'll have to lift the car up to get it out from under.
-Once you get the car high enough, and the engine low enough to seperate the two without breaking anything or beating the hell out of your front bumper.
That should be it. Any questions, please let me know. Any additions from anyone experienced
, feel free to chime in.