[How to] Valvecover Removal and Reinstall

Write ups and tutorials for maintenance and modifications.

[How to] Valvecover Removal and Reinstall

Postby WarTowels » Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:07 am

This is my guide showing how I removed and replaced my valve cover. What you do with this information is 100% up to you, I do not imply or guarantee anything and any damage you may do to your car is out of my hands.

Having said that, here's what I did.

First, lets outline what tools will be needed to complete this:

-Sockets
-Socket wrenches
-Allen wrenches
-Phillips head screw driver
-Degreaser/Engine cleaner

Optional:

- Hex or Allen wrench bolts (See www.twosrus.com for an easy purchase)
- Black RTV or Toyota FPIG
- Outer Valve Cover Gasket #: 11213-88381
- Inner Valve Cover Gasket #: 11214-88381


Step 1
:

First things first, remove the intercooler, the spark plug wires, and the air manifold brace.

Manifold brace highlighted in blue:
Image

It is attached to the throttle body, and the valve cover by four bolts. Remove those and it will pop free. Save the bolts, or replace them with appropriate new ones.

Brace removed:

Image

Step 2:

Remove the 10 bolts for the valve cover. There are 3 in the front, 3 in the middle, and 4 in the rear. These are all accessible without removing anything else, but may require some finagling with a long Phillips head screw driver.


Step 3, as needed:


Remove/Disconnect the EGR if necessary. Please see the EGR FAQ/How To for more information on that.

Step 4:

Remove the valve cover by lifting it upwards. This process can be quite annoying, but just be calm and work it free.

Getting there:
Image

Off:
Image

Very dirty:
Image

Step 5:

At this point, I cleaned up the surrounding gunk, taking care to avoid any dirt and grime from falling in with the cams.

Image
I used engine degreaser and clean rags to carefully scrub the dirt and grime from the surfaces. I didn't go crazy over cleaning it, it does have 213,000 miles on it after all.

But do try and get rid of all the dirt and particles that would cause improper sealing: allowing oil to seep or leak out. Also take care to remove the old Toyota FPIG sealant from around the cam corners.

Step 6:

Get the valve cover ready for reinstall. For me, this included sand blasting and powder coating. If you do such things, please take the necessary precautions in cleaning it.

Time to put the valve cover back on! Get the FPIG or I used RTV Black ready, as well as your valve cover.

Here is my valve cover, with new RTV around the edges and the new gaskets (inner and outer) in place.

Image

Step 7:

Time to reinstall the valve cover. First apply sealant to the four corners around the cam shafts:

Image

Follow the instructions for whatever sealant you use. Mine required 24 hours to sit. So be sure to abide by these rules if you want it to cure properly.

Here is my RTV Black on the head:

Left side:
Image

Right side:
Image

At this point carefully put the valve cover back on, it should be twice as easy as removal.

Reinstall the bolts being extremely care NOT to over torque the bolts. The Toyota BGB requires that they be 69 in. lbf (7.8 N-m) of force. This is basically HAND tight.

If you over tighten the bolts, the valve cover tabs WILL break.

Image

Enjoy!

If anyone has anything to add, or any questions I'd be happy to help as best I can.

I have more pictures, if anything isn't clear or needs further explanation drop me a line and I'll edit it.

-Towels
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Last edited by WarTowels on Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.
2003 S2000
1985 300TD
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Postby smog7 » Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:56 am

nice write up towels. you really had alot of gunk in there! are you supposed to put so much rtv next to the cams? did you hand tighten the valve cover bolts by hand, or did you use a socket wrench? also nice job on the valve cover, nice and clean.
-omar
my car doesn't leak oil, it just marks its territory
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Postby Rick89GTS » Mon Oct 06, 2008 5:07 am

Nice write up, good job :smokes:
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Postby WarTowels » Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:49 pm

^ Thanks guys. Just trying to give a tiny bit back to the site I love. :D


-I used a socket wrench to tighten my bolts. Did it by feel, since I didn't have a torque wrench that goes down that low.

I had experience on my side though, as I broke one of my old valve cover tabs so I knew what kind of pressure it could take.

*You do not tighten them until they can't move anymore!*

Since there is that gasket there, it will compress with the more pressure you add until it can't compress anymore and then you will end up breaking a tab.

I cannot stress enough, do not over tighten them. Worst case you will have a little oil leaking if you don't tighten it enough.

Remember that they were originally screwed in there, so they don't require much force. Also recheck the bolts after a few drives to make sure they are not coming loose.

-RTV around the cams: I tried to mimic the amount that was already on there. I also don't think a little extra would hurt. It's only going to be making contact with the head and the VC, so I wouldn't imagine a little extra could hurt.

-Towels
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1985 300TD
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Postby Rick89GTS » Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:37 am

^So it looks like you used regular bolts, what size?
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Postby WarTowels » Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:26 pm

Bolts: http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_ ... ucts_id=59

I used the hex bolts. But in retrospect, I'd go with the allen. Much harder to over tighten that way.

-Towels
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1985 300TD
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