[How to] Remove the ABS from a ST185

sMARTINside

New member
I went to my local Toyota dealer and the parts guy told me that this part is now discontinued: p/n 90413-10182 : 3-Way valve

The AT180 proportioning valve, p/n 47150-16040 is still available in limited quantities at $450 CAD. :shock:

Is the 3-Way valve only a Tee or does it contain any check valve or other components?
 

sMARTINside

New member
I wouldn't mind to use the one on the side of the brick, but I want to make the system more adjustable and get experience from that.
 

DudeMan

New member
Well I ended up rushing my project a bit so I won't be pulling any sensors or interior wiring for now..

But I should be able to update this thread with info on making your own lines and mounting solutions for the fuse box, relays, etc.

The pics alltracst185 posted will be very helpful for my custom lines, thanks!

Edit; quick question, is the grey relay labeled 'A.U.S Trac Relay' the ABS relay? Can it be cut off?
 

darthripley

Moderator
Yes, it's for the ABS so you can cut it off & tape off the ends neatly.

Don't forget about removing the ABS computer inside the car - that will throw the ABS light in the dash since it will be looking for everything you removed.
 

DudeMan

New member
I just want to double check something..

The extra electrical clip to the right of the two relays is part of the ABS too right?

Sorry, I'm just really nervous about cutting out the wrong wires and having problems down the road..

I also noticed in the 'post your engine bay' thread that there's quite a few people who have removed the ABS, but not these relays. I guess they were probably unsure like myself so maybe this pic will help clarify what all can be removed for those who use this thread in the future.

P6060040.jpg
 

sMARTINside

New member
I cut these relays off too, when I did my ABS removal, I think that I also cut this little plug. I also recommend you to redo all the lines and remove the ABS brick, because the pedal might be hard and you should feel less braking power. On my side, I have installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve to have the ability to adjust the car, so it brakes more in the rear or less. So far, I love it, the pedal is firm, the braking power and modulation are amazing. :)
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Time to revist this topic.

More specifically, the one thing left that hasn't been done yet (in this thread anyway...maybe someone else posted it elsewhere) - removing the wiring.

As you know, my car is completely gutted right now, in the process of putting it all back together. I just put the dash back on, but before I continue forward, I am thinking of removing the ABS wiring. I need to decide now, b/c the dash is easy to remove again at this point - just a few bolts.

I installed my rear speakers last night. When I did the passenger side, I mounted the crossover unit ontop and noticed it was hitting "something" to which I remembered I hadn't removed the ABS ecu yet. Done.

I started looking at the harness and saw just how massive that thing is going to the ECU that swings back over to the driver side, as it runs in front of the rear seat.

I'm thinking of removing this. Then I started thinking about how I strung the harness through the driver/pass. kick panel for the ABS stuff...when I removed the ABS. So it seems senseless to leave that there.

So I think I'm going to undo the entire harness and remove everything ABS. I may not be able to remove everything 100% if I'm unsure about a few wires, but it'll help cut down the amount of wiring needed in this car.

I'll be taking some pics.

Bryan
 

darthripley

Moderator
We didn't remove the wiring and associated plugs, so Bryan if you do remove it all from the engine harness and interior please feel free to detail all the info here and add it to the how to in order to make it more complete.
 

DudeMan

New member
Can't help with the wiring but here's a pic of my custom lines for anyone wanting to do this.

Its easy and kinda fun as long as the engine isn't in the way. :p

IMG_0214.jpg
 

celigts

New member
So... I'm lost on this thread. What parts will I need to pick up to do this or will I be able to use the p valve from the brick and that's all I need? Also will I NEED to remake my lines? So far I just have the fuse removed.

Hate the abs on the winter roads so I wanna get it out. Plus it's wasting valuable fuse box space lol.
 
You'll have plenty of left over lines so You make new ones out of those.
and You'll need couple of t-connections You can get from pretty much any automotive store
or even hardware store.
also re-use old proportional valve
and You'll need this tool for making line ends to fit couplers (forgot the proper name for it)
also cost a few bucks from any automotive store
 

celigts

New member
Flare tool you mean? How long did it take you guys to do? And how much did you remove to get to the firewall stuff while the motor was installed.
 
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