[How To] Rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder

Write ups and tutorials for maintenance and modifications.

[How To] Rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder

Postby Terracar » Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:27 pm

I searched on here for a how-to but was unable to find one for rebuilding the Clutch Slave. I have seen quite a few people just go out and buy new ones or from members off the boards, which I found puzzling since you can easily rebuild it with the rebuild kit from your local dealership (p/n 04313-17020). The kit is inexpensive and should be around $20-25 for most people from the dealership; mine was like $15. I wanted to rebuild mine since I was installing a new Speed Source extended push rod.

The rebuild kit includes a new piston, spring, rubber grommet/shroud for rod, dust cap for bleeder valve
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Disclaimer - Please note that I am not a mechanic by trade and that I nor Alltrac.net can be held responsible for any damage, injuries or death caused by work you perform using this website as a guideline.

Parts Needed:

-Clutch slave cylinder
-Clutch Slave rebuild kit (p/n 04313-17020)
-Small brake hone
-Drill (for brake hone)
-10mm wrench or socket (to remove clutch slave bolts)
-10mm flare nut wrench (for clutch line removal)
-8mm flare nut wrench (for bleeder valve removal)
-Brake fliud (for honing/bleeding clutch)
-Wire brush (for cleaning)
-Brake cleaner (for cleaning)
-Assembly lube
-Marine bearing grease (optional)


Step #1 – Remove the rubber shroud and the rod from the clutch slave.

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Step #2 - When I did mine I thought that I could remove the “piston” (blue part in pics) from the cylinder using compressed air – I couldn’t get it to even budge with 155psi. In order to get the piston out you will need to leave the clutch slave hooked up to the clutch line and use the pressure from pumping the clutch pedal to force it from the cylinder. *Warning* the piston will cause harm if care is not taken since it ejects with extreme force and will cause injury or damage. I recommend that you use a towel/rag wrapped around clutch slave to absorb the force as it could easily damage components within the engine bay. Clean up any brake fluid that may have come in contact with any painted areas.

Step 3 – Disconnect hard line and bleeder valve from clutch slave.

Step 4 – Remove clutch slave from transmission.

Step 5 – Clean clutch slave cylinder - I used degreaser and a wire brush on the exterior, while I used brake cleaner on the interior. Clean/inspect bleeder valve – replace if necessary (not included in rebuild kit)

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Step 6 – My clutch slave had a build up of sludge and rust in the cylinder and quite a bit of corrosion on the piston so I chose to hone the cylinder out prior to re-assembly. I used a small brake hone and brake fluid to hone it out until it was clean and free of rust. Be sure it is dry and free from all contaminates

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Step 7 – Assemble piston assembly & rod assembly. This consists of assembling the piston and spring as seen in the photos. Be sure to lube the rod end with the dado (groove) in it as well as the rubber grommet/shroud as it will take some force and or finesse to get the rod through the small opening on the rubber grommet/shroud – think golf ball through a garden hose.
Piston & spring:
Image
Rod and grommet:
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Step 8 – Assemble piston and cylinder. Next use a lithium soap based grease (assembly lube fits the requirements) lube the piston, the rubber on the piston and the first portion of the cylinder. Be sure that the bleeder valve and clutch line are disconnected as it will be very difficult if you attempt to assemble with those still attached. Place the piston in the cylinder spring side first. Push using steady pressure and the piston should go in smoothly albeit slowly. Push the piston into the cylinder about 1” below the edge.
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Step 9 – Install rod/rubber grommet. I used marine bearing grease and put a blob in the concave surface of the piston. (Logic I used was rod will be rubbing on metal piston so the grease will prevent any unwanted noise/wear) Insert the rod into the concave portion of the piston and slide the rubber grommet over the groove on the outside of the clutch slave. The rubber will sit firmly in place holding the rod.
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Step 10 – Install bleeder valve and new rubber dust cap.

Step 11 – Reinstall clutch slave

Step 12 – Bleed clutch line.

Step 13 – Enjoy!


-Terracar
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Postby Shaggz00 » Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:59 pm

I accidentally incurred death from rebuilding my slave cylinder while using your guide, So I'm suing you.

Damn! Didn't see the Disclaimer! :doh: oh wells...

Excellent write up though :P
-Avi-
'88 ST-165(Black) - Sitting... Waiting... Quietly... in the garage under 2 inches of dust...
'88 ST-165(grey) - gone to rusty Celica heaven
'91 MKIII Supra - 98% completion!
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Postby AvivB » Sat Oct 10, 2009 8:42 am

Very good write up...

Just to add 2 part-numbers:
1. It seems that for the FWD (ST182, ST184, ST202) guys the kit have different part-number: 04313-12030 (although I'm 99.9% sure it is the same parts exactly).
2. For those who want to replace the bleeder, the part-number is: 47547-20010 (for all Toyota models... :) )

Aviv.
/Aviv

('92 ST182RC 1/1 :-) )
"Life is not the fact that your heart is beating but the number of times you miss a heartbeat..." (www)
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Postby Rick89GTS » Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:24 am

Funny, I was thinking of doing the same write-up, as I just replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ST165. I bought the whole thing, as it was only $31 and I didn't have time. I will rebuild one for a spare though. Excellent write-up, well done. :smokes:
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Postby Rick89GTS » Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:29 am

BTW, yours is an ST185, are the part numbers the same for the ST165?
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Postby bridge47 » Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:21 am

Its been awhile, but I'm fairly certain the 182/184 slave cylinder pistons are not anodized blue like one pictured above. Just bare aluminum. My theory is the anodizing on turbo slave pistons is necessary for the higher temps in engine bay. This could have changed in later production, with all models getting the anodized ones.
Yet another black 93 ST185.....

Facts are stubborn things.
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Postby AvivB » Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:48 pm

I've just ordered a set for ST182... I'll let you know when it arrive...
If the size/shape is the same and the only diff is the anodize, then maybe it was better for me to order the ST185 one... :-|
/Aviv

('92 ST182RC 1/1 :-) )
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Postby Terracar » Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:37 pm

Rick89GTS wrote:BTW, yours is an ST185, are the part numbers the same for the ST165?



Toyodiy lists two parts number for the ST16x (one the same as the ST184/82/202)

04313-12030 & 04313-22020

Oh wait just checked - 04313-12030 is the new part # the 22020 is no longer available.


-Terracar
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Postby Darkstar20999 » Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:10 am

is the slave cylinder in a 1990 gts the same as the slave cylinder in my celica all trac the same ????? :shrug:
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Postby Corey » Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:27 am

According to part numbers - no.
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Postby Darkstar20999 » Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:43 am

:doh: dose any one know from off hand like a gts as a parts car or anything ???? lol
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Re: [How To] Rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder

Postby Kcman91gts » Sun Jan 10, 2010 4:38 am

My slave pooched on my 165 and im using a spare from 1991 GT and they are both identical in appearance and interior measurements , same goes for the pushrod . it bolted up just fine and even the hardline was bent exactly the same.
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Re: [How To] Rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder

Postby RafaCalde » Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:02 pm

where can i find the litium soap base greese. i just recently started working at autozone and we don't have any. i was thinking a hydraulic supply shop. any other possibilities?
Rafa

1990 White ST185 w/ Carlos Sainz motor, ecu, and tranny
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Re: [How To] Rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder

Postby Terracar » Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:40 pm

Most assembly lubes are lithium soap based.

Image

-Terracar
'92 'trac - Demon - currently in need of some reconstructive surgery.
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Re: [How To] Rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder

Postby RafaCalde » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:16 pm

so if i get the mobil1 synthetic grease or the valvoline durablend multipurpose grease we have at the store would work?
Rafa

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