How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Write ups and tutorials for maintenance and modifications.

How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Postby l0ch0w » Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:46 am

Ive noticed lately that there is a large number of people repairing and replacing their rear subframe bushings. This job without the right tools sucks ass... Im going to provide my walkthrough for this by showing my preference of tools to use for the job...

Before you do this, understand, this job is not intended for the average backyard mechanic with only a set of sockets and a large hammer. To spare you the headache, you really need access to good air tools, a shop press, and lots of space...

Tools:
-Quality 1/2" pneumatic impact gun (600+ lbft)
-12000 RPM large die grinder (you will see mine in pictures later)
-12+ Ton shop press with appropriate press dies
-Transmission jack (unless you have a lift)
-Rolling floor jack (unless you have a lift)
-2x Jack Stands (unless you have a lift)
-Creeper (unless you have a lift)
-10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, and 30mm sockets. (14 and up should be 1/2" 6 point impact type)
-A 14mm and 12mm swivel socket, or a 1/2" swivel you dont care about potentially ruining
-2+ feet of 1/2" socket extensions
-Safety Goggles (not glasses)
-12-19mm double box ended wrenches (have the best angle)
-A set of 6" carbide burr bits (for stuck toe arm cams)
-Flashlight
-BFH
-Plastic bags for organizing parts
-Master Slide hammer set with bearing pullers etc (available at autozone IIRC)


STEP 1 Remove wheel hub assemblies (SEE BGB)
-This is mostly straight forward, but I do find them easier to remove if you unbolt the E-brake cable from the chassis and remove the whole hub assy with the cable still attached.

STEP 2 Using a swivel, a box end, your impact, and a very long 1/2" extension unbolt both the Propeller Shaft and both CV axles from the Differential. Trying to do this by hand is damn near impossible...

STEP 3 Support Subassembly with transmission lift

STEP 4 Unbolt Subassembly, lower the transmission lift, then remove it.
-Wear goggles, and use your impact wrench

STEP 5 Get acquainted with your subframe :) Here are the pertinent parts:

Image
Image

Step 6
Depending on how you removed things, you will need to remove both suspension arms as well as the strut rod from the chassis. The no.1 Rear suspension arm gives alot of us alot of trouble... Its this part that usually holds most of us up. The toe adjusting cam gets stuck inside the bushing and makes removal of it from the subframe impossible. If it gets stuck, here is what I found does the best job...

Here is the situation in pictures:
Image
Image

-Dont get pissed and beat it to death with a hammer, this will likely do nothing except bend your toe arm...
-With a long carbide burr, you are going to remove the piece of the cam sticking out so that you can eventually get the thing out to press out the whole bushing...

Like this:
Image

When you get the front side done, then stick the bit all the way through and work on the back side. You wont be able to access this side of the bushing effectively any other way...

When its done, (took me about 20 mins per side) then you can pull it out and press out the bushing:
Image

STEP 7

Remove Main Diff mount bushings and Main Subframe chassis mounting bushings
- This was much easier than I thought it was going to be. Just press out the center rubber piece with your press, and then with a hammer and an appropriately sized bearing packer hammer out the exterior metal portion of the bushing

Should wind up with this:

Image

STEP 8

Remove bushings from wheel hub.

-Use a press on the strut bar bushing, its pretty straightforward.
-Use a slide hammer and the appropriate attachments to remove the toe adjustment arm bushing.
-Use a BFH and a socket to hammer out the no.2 suspension arm bushing.

Here is mine finished. I still have the other one to do, so ill post more pictures later if people want.
Image


I have heard people have had issues with the suspension arm bushings but with the slide hammer approach vs a bearing puller (which I tried first and failed at...) it was much easier with the slide hammer...

If any of you have access to, or know anyone with access to a military installation I would suggest capitalizing on the use of their auto-craft facilities... Personally this would have sucked alot more for me If I tried this at home in my cluttered garage. It could have been done, but I would have frozen my ass off, and would have had to make multiple runs to autozone or wherever to rent bearing pullers/slide hammers. For $10 you get access to a full garage, with all the tools you would need. Here is a picture of my local auto-craft store...

Image

Anyways, I'm reserving the next slot for painting/powder coating and re-installation of solid-mount bushings...
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Andrew

1991 Red Alltrac
Frankenstein engine, lots of mods :P
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Re: How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Postby celigts » Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:31 am

Nice walk through. Definitly isn't an easy job! With out an air hammer and hydraulic press I could never have finished the job of removing the bushings!

Your going with solid bushings? From the next order by Klue I assume right?
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Re: How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Postby l0ch0w » Sun Dec 30, 2012 1:28 pm

Ive got GT4 racing ones already. Will be using OEMs though on the no.1 and no.2 suspension arms. You can see them in the upper left hand corner of the first pic.
Andrew

1991 Red Alltrac
Frankenstein engine, lots of mods :P
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1991 Toyota Celica

Re: How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Postby Killtodie » Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:24 pm

Great write up, but I have always burned my bushings out. Messy, but excellent results.
1988 Chrysler Conquest
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1988 Toyota Celica All-Trac
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Re: How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Postby l0ch0w » Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:32 pm

Well... I went and had everything powdercoated. Turns out when you powdercoat everything that the solid bushings when you grease them up will press right in with the aid of just a table vise. I did not need to enlist the help of a press to install my bushings. I imagine however that the no.1 and no.2 spherical bearings on the spindles will need to be pressed in however. I will include installation pictures for them once I have them in.

Pic of the powdercoating
Image
Andrew

1991 Red Alltrac
Frankenstein engine, lots of mods :P
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l0ch0w
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Location: Lansing KS

1991 Toyota Celica

Re: How to repair and replace stuck Rear sub-frame bushings.

Postby celigts » Mon Jan 28, 2013 4:59 am

Looks very nice!
91 Celica Alltrac - Parts pile pending instal :P
3SGTE project motor very slow
Intake/Heat shield project slowly moving
Winnipegs respected TTI forum. join and love the community will welcome you with open arms and legs ? http://toptierimports.com/
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