If you had $3000, what would you do to a stock ST185 RC???

F

flipradio3

New member
Bottom line: if i can't sell my 91 Toyota Celica GT-Four RC anytime soon, I'm going to do some upgrades on my car.

Currently the car has a catback exhaust, hks filter, hks-ssqv bov, boost at 10 psi.

Recently I got a $3000 bonus from work and yah........What would you do????
 
F

flipradio3

New member
CSAlltrac":3k1hot5b said:
If its rolling on the stock wheels i would do a nice set of wheels and tires and some rear spacers
Click to expand...

Nice...I like that idea.... what do you suggest? H&R rear spacers?
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
• I would lower the car. (RC has revalved stuts, so they may not need to be upgraded)

• Camber bolts or plates.

• Downpipe, midpipe

• rear bushings and upgrade rear diff mount.

• wheel spacers and nice wheels.

• Short shifter

• mod fuel cutoff

• turn the boost to 15psi.

If you shop around, you might find everything on the list I made (less the wheels) for less than 1,000usd. That would leave you 2k for nice wheels. You could be riding on some volks or some other nice wheels in that price range.

If you only spend around 1,200 or less on wheels, then I would add some nice wheel locks and upgrade the brake pads and steel braded lines.

That should make for a pretty fun car with minimal input.
 
maxaud

maxaud

Active member
my RC hits over 10psi stock, so maybe turn it back to stock pressure.
Somewhere between 12-15 should be fine.
 
G

gt4tified

New member
Whiteline swaybars (F+R) - If bought when st185performance had their sale, you'd get them both for $250.
Camber adjustable Coilovers - Megans or K-Sport can be had for around $900.
ATS fuel rail & fpr upgrade $150 (with your cores)
ATS ROM tune - the MR2 guys always have for sale on their site for < $500
Water Injection $200 (Devil's Own)
FCD set@17 psi $35 (two'srus)
Rims & tyres (I left this for last so for $650 I'm sure you'd get something)
HAWK hps or EBC yellowstuff brake pads $120
steel braided brake lines ($120 @935motorsports)
steel braided clutch line ($20 @935motorsports)
adjustable rpm switch to open the TVIS at 3800 rpm (you can make this urself for about $50)
Crank boost to 16 psi and enjoy life!!!

TOTAL: $2995.00
 
N

No Spin

New member
I would prioritize braking and handling over power, partly because of the weight of our cars. If you ever have had to slam on the brakes on the street to avoid a collison, you will know what I mean.

Basically what CMS-GT4 posted, but with the steel brake lines, etc., closer to the top. Once you get everything turning & stopping the way you want, you can build the go fast stuff.
 
A

alltracman78

Active member
gt4tified":2lnoqd4z said:
FCD set@17 psi $35 (two'srus)
steel braided brake lines ($120 @935motorsports)
steel braided clutch line ($20 @935motorsports)
Click to expand...

CMS-GT4":2lnoqd4z said:
• I would lower the car. (RC has revalved stuts, so they may not need to be upgraded)

• Camber bolts or plates.

• mod fuel cutoff

steel braded lines.
Click to expand...

The RC is already ~ 1" lower than the regular ST185.
Camber can be adjusted relatively aggressive with the stock suspension.
Fuel cut is already 17 PSI, unless you're going higher than that, no need for a FCD.

Also, IMO steel braided brake lines aren't all they're cracked up to be.
I would rather have a set of new OEM ones.
Nor is the clutch line, it sees very low pressure; IMO the OEM lines will last you longer [I've already had 1 SS line go bad on me from dirt getting in past the cracked rubber sleeves].

:)
 
G

gt4tified

New member
RC fuel cut is 17psi? Wow, didn't know that.

The ss braided lines are good in case you get into rally a little bit later, you really don't need any little shards flying around to cut your brake lines.

I've have a clutch line done by a local hydraulic specialist shop (teflon core) and never had any probs since!
 
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