underscore wrote: CSAlltrac wrote:
There are a few qwerks with this setup that I dont know how others would feel about having them. I thought about making a harness though, would be a good thing for me as well, its a mess behind the cluster right now.
Bumping this up, what kind of quirks? And damn those speedo healers are expensive, they cost almost as much as the cluster!
My setup is unique in comparison to what another ST185 might be with this swap. Reason being, and the reason I started the swap in the first place is that my stock, internal speedometer drive gear that actually drives the speedo. sensor and cable removed itself from its factory position. Honestly I have yet to find it, my guess is that it is still on the diff but just free floating around it.
Hope that makes sense. Anyways, with that situation I used a stand alone hall effect sensor mounted in the "scatter shield" above the inner CV of the left side axle reading the six axle bolts. Thats my source for a pulse per mile signal that I then put into the speedohealer, corrected the single pulse value until MPH displayed was correct. The cluster speed input also demands a 5V square signal rather than a 12V so a voltage reducer is needed. I vaguely remember what I used to correct this, I do remember that it was an inexpensive part that I got a whole bag for like $5. I would have to look into that. My set up is complicated but works. I also did not mess with the temp. gauge in the cluster which is (on the Honda swaps) the more difficult item to get functional. I have a stand alone AEM water temp so I didnt even bother.
A vehicle that has a working speed sensor will probably be a lot easier to get dialed in and could possibly eliminate the quirks my set up has. The main one is at higher speeds the MPH is twitchy but a nice solid pulse signal like a factory one is probably all thats needed. The thing that Im unsure of if I were to swap it into a ST185 with a functioning speedo sensor is if it would be possible to tap into the stock pulse signal without disrupting the signal getting to the ECU to prevent a code. My car is on AEM stand alone so I also dont have the concern of a factory computer freaking out. All the other signals are straight forward wire to wire simplicity. The fuel gauge could use some adjustment. Mine is currently empty when the gauge shows me to have three bars left which is just under a 1/4 tank on the S2000 cluster. Since Im not really worried about it and I now know where the car is low on fuel I have not looked into correcting it, I just live with it. Im not entirely sure why the pics are not working, I may have cleaned up my Photobucket and not remember.