Group A from OZ

Puffy

Member
Yes - but been a long time with the GT4.
Once it's done I want to try a few hill climbs. Went to some and they look like a lot of fun.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
awsome car puffy.
one question how did u go with the cf hood and the cops?
up in qld if its not adr approved its not allowed and as far as i know only one company does adr approved hoods and their fibre glass.
am i missing something or i it illegal?
 

Puffy

Member
Cheers aus - I got the standard one on hand just in case the cops give me a hard time.
To my knowledge no carbon hood is legal in Australia due to shattering on impact rather than crumple.
 

darthripley

Moderator
CMS-GT4":fikhvwsy said:
This project is becoming a work of art.

+1

Puffy, the C/F Cooling panel looks amazing.
Did you lay the carbon over the OEM plastic piece, basically using the plastic piece as a mold?
I'd like to make one as well but I've never laid carbon before & am a bit nervous to try :oops:
 

deecee

New member
darthripley":tqfgp498 said:
CMS-GT4":tqfgp498 said:
This project is becoming a work of art.

+1

Puffy, the C/F Cooling panel looks amazing.
Did you lay the carbon over the OEM plastic piece, basically using the plastic piece as a mold?
I'd like to make one as well but I've never laid carbon before & am a bit nervous to try :oops:
practice with normal woven fibreglass to begin with. And look at using a mould release if you are going to model against the current piece of plastic.
 

Puffy

Member
No, I did not use the oem as it is flimsy and was not sure if it would hold the right shape off the car.
Instead I made an aluminium panel and used that as a mold. Using it as a female, the shiny aluminium gives it that nice deep 3d look you get with vacuum process.
The OEM panel may work but I do see shapes in it that the carbon will want to fight against you using an overlay technique.
I will be doing another soon and try use the OEM unit.

Dont be too nervous.... all you can do is learn :)
 

darthripley

Moderator
thanks for the advice deecee & puffy - I appreciate it. :)

I tried to get this one guy to produce SS cooling panels but he was a douche & never could get his isht together & do the job.
I told him he would make quite a few sales within our community & with other 5th gen Celicas as the cooling panels are the same -- but d-bag that he was it never panned out. :shoots:
 

athousandleaves

New member
Check this video out at 2:00 and look at the cooling panel they have.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msnPCvx1bmA

Makes a lot of sense to me seeing as the small piece of rubber that goes between the hood and the cooling panel makes the last gap of the hood above the cooling panel mostly useless...
If I had the time or means to make a cooling panel that's probably what I'd aim at fabricating.

Amazing car btw!
 

Puffy

Member
Thanks leaves.
That TTE unit sure is sweet.....way above my equipment and skill capabilities.
Looks to serve a structural purpose as the steel support brace that the latch mechanism normally bolts on to has been all deleted.
I suspect the kevlar V shape continues down and bolts to the lower radiator support bar.
 

Puffy

Member
Thanks ChrisD

It is chrome plated but needs a mirror polish first for the electrodes to hold.
Polishing alone lasts 60 sec before engine heat dulls it.
It is a pain to mirror polish first but it worth doing when plating alloy, the chrome is durable and gives that deep liquid reflection.


I don't think it does any favors for heat disbursement.
Upside is when it blow.... think how easy the oil will wipe off that chrome cover :p

- She woke up from her beauty sleep and we started with a few simple exercises.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWEGKkMsf14
 

athousandleaves

New member
Any more updates/pictures/videos of your car?

I went to check out that youtube clip you had put up and noticed it was taken down :'(
 

Puffy

Member
I think I deleted my youtube user by accident :doh:
Update... because leaves asked :D

Decided to participate rather than spectate in Toyfest this year and had an awesome time.
Excellent variety of modern and classic toyotas :notworthy:

... the car picked up a trophy which was a nice surprise.

Some pics

toyotafest2010166.jpg


img4291s.jpg


img4292d.jpg
 

athousandleaves

New member
Puffy":1g70nq2p said:
Update... because leaves asked :D

Thanks for the update!
I just took my car off the road this week to begin an almost complete restoration and RC swap on it over the next year(s) so seeing other alltracs in amazing shape really helped keep my spirits up.

Your wiring tuck is a really really well done. I'd love to see a writeup or some links to others that influenced yours if you have anything to share.

Puffy":1g70nq2p said:
I have 205 calipers running 320x32mm DBA's. I designed the hubs to spec so no spacers needed and everything is centric.
Somehow I never noticed that you were running this 205 brake setup!
I've been racking my brain all summer on designs for a custom DBA hat/rotor to work with the 205 brakes.
Can you pm/post some more details as to your design because they don't list any seemingly compatible hats on their page.

If I ever end up down under I will certainly visit you for a ride!

I know it's been said before but your car is definitely a work of art and is well deserving of high praise.

:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
 

Puffy

Member
Good luck with restoration mate. I will keep an eye on the RC swap.

I have no guide since it was such a big learning curve for me so can only offer some advice.

Install an aftermarket ECU... eliminates AFM, Injector resistor packs, stock ignitor and associated wires / plugs.
If you are not comfortable in wiring up an aftermarket ECU then recommend you do not attempt a wire tuck on a GT4.

Arm yourself with all the wire diagrams you can download., Print them out and sticky tape them together as a map and learn to read them.

GOLDEN RULE: If I did not know what it is for then I cannot cut it until identified. TAG EVERYTHING you cut.

My wire layout is basically this:
Injectors, distributor and TPS wires between intake manifold runners and through stock hole in firewall connected to ECU.
ABS, Alternator, headlights, thermo fans, blinkers, boost solenoid inside guards, re connecting to main fuse box located in glove box and re distribute from box to battery / starter motor & kick panel = interior power.
Starter motor, speed sensor, reverse light switch through stock hole in passenger footwell connecting to main fuse box, kick panel for reverse light & dashboard for speed sensor.

Lots of sorting, cutting, extending and reconnecting. Make sure you use the same gauge wires when extending and solid joins.
I re wired a lot of the interior which was a painful :bangshead: ... leave it alone :crazy:
Stay focused when tracing wires, its a maze that can be daunting. Many wires loop onto themselves, split into plugs and change color.

The DBA's are aftermarket items for Mitsubishi Evo 7/8/9. The Evo and Audi S8 were only available in 32mm thickness at the time so not sure if that has changed.
No compatible hats as you saw.... STi WRX ones you might get away with but the offset again will cause problems.
I ended up learning CAD and milled out a custom set. Below are pics of the brake setup coming together.

hub18ez.jpg
hub25lo.jpg


dscf0155r.jpg
dscf0092h.jpg


dscf0172p.jpg
 
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