which valve springs with HKS cams?

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which valve springs with HKS cams?

Postby damselracer » Thu Sep 23, 2004 2:59 am

im rebuilding my engine in the next few weeks, and I decided to go with the 264/272 HKS cams (among other things). If I remember correctly, with cams with a different duration/lift from stock, you are supposed to use different valve springs. Am I remembering correctly, and if so, which springs should i use? thanks!
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Postby Griffin » Thu Sep 23, 2004 5:31 am

I am using the HKS springs with my HKS 264 cams and they seem to work rather well.
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valve springs and head work

Postby MIG407 » Thu Sep 23, 2004 6:24 pm

hks are a great choice, also crower has a new offering similar in price, but if you are on a budjet engle springs do the job just as well at a fraction of the cost. stay away from the ferrea spring for they require quite an amount of machining to the head.
-since your building the head any way my suggest the following:
1. hks cams (272 int /264 ext)
2. ats cam gears
3. mrs shimless bucket conversion (30-35% lighter valve train).
4. valve spring of choice (hks crower or engle depending on budjet).
5. ferrea oversize valves
-and if you dont have a competent machinist in you area familiar with 3s motors save yourself lots of trouble and send it to " the man" ChrisK in texas. he is a 3sgte expert and offers complete engine building services in addition to intake manifolds and fuel rails all of which are 1st rate quality.
he can be reached at fj_chris@yahoo.com. for the cams and cam gears contact ats racing and ask for aron.
- i had work done by him. he knows what he is doin. satisfied customer here.
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Postby Griffin » Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:37 pm

I have the HKS cam gears - they seem nice enough - AEM also makes some.
Dave Staba
Owner - DD Performance Research
SOLD - 1990 Black ST185
Current - 2000 Celica GTS , 2000 MR2 Spyder, 2013 Scion FR-S
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Postby damselracer » Mon Oct 04, 2004 11:01 pm

MIG407 mentioned the shimless bucket conversion... ive heard of this, and the advantages of it, but i dont really know the work involved or how it works. Does anyone have a link or maybe some personal insight on what this mod is and how its done? thanks!

~Leah
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Postby BoostedBlueToyotas » Tue Oct 05, 2004 12:10 am

RMR (Ross Intake manifolds) has info on his site

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/3sbucket.html
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Postby damselracer » Tue Oct 05, 2004 12:44 am

Blue_GreyST185 wrote:RMR (Ross Intake manifolds) has info on his site

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/3sbucket.html


awesome! i see how it works now.

my question now is, how do you get the measurements you need to order the individual buckets? Im changing cams from stock, so im assuming that im going to need a different size bucket than the bucket/shim combo thats in there now? also, im assuming you can use all the same springs, etc?
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Postby Griffin » Tue Oct 05, 2004 2:35 pm

damselracer wrote:
Blue_GreyST185 wrote:RMR (Ross Intake manifolds) has info on his site

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/3sbucket.html


awesome! i see how it works now.

my question now is, how do you get the measurements you need to order the individual buckets? Im changing cams from stock, so im assuming that im going to need a different size bucket than the bucket/shim combo thats in there now? also, im assuming you can use all the same springs, etc?


its pretty easy, just time consuming.

Step 1 - Record your existing valve clearances (in mm)
Step 2 - using a digital micrometer (for ease of use) record the TOTAL thickness of each shim and bucket combo (from the center where the valve contacts the bucket to the top of the shim)
Step 3 - figure the difference between your measured valve clearance and your ideal valve clearance (on a new motor you want to be a little looser than middle of the road as it will tighten up on you a bit as it breaks in)
Step 4 - Add ro subtract the difference you have calculated from the total shim and bucket thickness you measures with the micrometer.
Step 5 - the numbers you come up with will be like 5.46 mm (as an example) This means you will need a #46 shim. Likewise if it was 5.54mm you would need a #54 shim. The shims are only available in even numbers (50, 52, 54m etc.) so if you have a 5.45 to get ideal pick the 5.44 shim (#44) to give a little extra clearnce. Be sure to record all this data so you know which shims go where when they show up.
Step 6 - go to the dealer whith those shim numbers and order lifters for an 01 Celica GT (1ZZ-FE) or MR2 Spyder in the numbers you calculated.

I hope that helps!
Dave Staba
Owner - DD Performance Research
SOLD - 1990 Black ST185
Current - 2000 Celica GTS , 2000 MR2 Spyder, 2013 Scion FR-S
Sealy, TX
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