Street Brawler 46 Trim Final - 392whp@24psi, w/Exhaust!

Q&A regarding engines, turbos, and intercoolers and power upgrades

Postby jzz30 » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:12 am

great numbers! the curve flattens out at higher rpms still huh? i guess this is always going to be a problem for these motors. mine does that too... of course i dont have nearly the same power :cry:
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Postby CodingParadox » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:18 am

We didn't measure the EGTs... =/

The VE of the motor drops off on stock cams past 6k - any power you push through it will always do that.
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Postby Hic » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:42 am

I did it like this, opened up and cc-d, evey port is THE SAME in less than 0.5mm, SAME CC!!!!

http://i2.tinypic.com/rayiit.jpg chambers polished and opened up and cc-d

http://i2.tinypic.com/rayioi.jpg intake opened up, cc-d

http://i2.tinypic.com/rayip5.jpg exhaust port, miror polished cc-d


I don0't use tvis, difference is huge between sock and this work. Even on stock car (completely stock with stock headgasket)


Also, EGT's on 185 are huge!!!! Be sure to check it!
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Postby furpo » Mon Mar 13, 2006 8:23 pm

try not to think of the cylinder head having a flow limit. it does not, the reason is that it is always possible to increase delta - p (the head). an analogy is when siphoning fuel out of one tank into the other. it is always possible to increase the volume movement (flow) of the fuel by making one tank higher that it previously was (increasing the head). the other option to increase the flow is to make the hose bigger which using the analogy is what you are trying to do with doing work on your cylinder head.

also a very good way to find the restriction in the cylinder port is to lightly dust the port with flour or talcum powder and then slowly open the valve with the head on the flow bench (or even just with a vacuum accross it). the point where the flour disapears first is the greatest restriction. i have electronic manometres on my flow bench and an electronic dial gadge so i can log the flow as i dynamically open the valve and correct it back to a standard value. even with all that the flour is the best feature. sometimes i check my findings by leaving the valve in a static position and increasing the head across the cylinder head to see if the flour disapears from the same point.

roger
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Postby jzz30 » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:31 am

so if you change cams and tune you should be able to get better top end?
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Postby CodingParadox » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:32 am

Yeah, sure, but I don't want to change cams.
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Postby ruffneck » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:58 am

Nice numbers. Why wouldn't you change intake cam at least? I understand you want overall power, but I have more overall power now with just a 256 intake cam...
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Postby CodingParadox » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:59 am

I don't want overall power, I want low end power. If you have dyno proof that I lose NOTHING in the low end going to a bigger intake cam only, then sure I'll do it.
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Postby ruffneck » Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:20 am

just checking over my dyno graphs...keep in mind this is from 2 different tuners, on an old motor versus rebuilt, but both on stock specs (new motor with lower compression though - 8.5-1, and NO TVIS), same turbo (CT27), and the dynos have almost identical calibration.
Stock cams - 2800 rpm - 54kw
HKS 256 inlet, stock exhaust retarded 7 degrees, no tvis - 2800 rpm-55kw

The real difference is in the torque though, from a drivers point of view it just pulls alot harder lower.
Do what you want with this, I just want to see your car get all it can, although your current figures are impressive enough :D .
I'm thinking of getting the SB46 kit as my next upgrade, have you got any pics of it on the car? How did you run the water lines to and from the turbo?
And with the Aussie Exhaust corkscrew thing, I noticed that and though it was a bit funny too...does it actually restrict the flow in half, or just divide it into 2 streams? (put mine on 2 years ago, can't remember it properly)..
Good luck, and may the HP be with you!!
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Postby CodingParadox » Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:01 am

Can you post the two dyno graphs?
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Postby Denver_whiteST185 » Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:24 am

are you running alcohol/water injection, cause that should give you some more horsepower.
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(not really, i just own a completely UNmodified 91 civic dx that gets 45+ mpg now)
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Postby CodingParadox » Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:42 am

Water injection is on my to-do list. I just want to get a good stable build not dependent upon external things like water injection yet for now.
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Postby Denver_whiteST185 » Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:56 am

then i would go with the 256 cams that were stated above. also, is your intake in a cold air box, cause that might help. Im planning on doing some similar stuff to my all trac, and those are in my plans. also, do you have an unorthadox racing pully, cause i just bought one and it should give me about 10 extra horsepower. another thing that would put a little more HP to the wheels would be a lighter driveshaft. nology hotwires will help too. just trying to give you a couple ideas of mine.
^Ted^

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(not really, i just own a completely UNmodified 91 civic dx that gets 45+ mpg now)
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Postby d1alltrac » Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:01 am

David, have you considered an intake cam from a 3sge? i hear its got a little more lift and a little longer duration...probably no loss from that.


Denver_whiteST185 wrote: also, do you have an unorthadox racing pully, cause i just bought one and it should give me about 10 extra horsepower.


personally i wouldn't remove my harmonic dampener for one of those pulleys
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92 MR2 turbo
02 330i
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Postby Denver_whiteST185 » Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:05 am

Denver_whiteST185 wrote: also, do you have an unorthadox racing pully, cause i just bought one and it should give me about 10 extra horsepower.


personally i wouldn't remove my harmonic dampener for one of those pulleys


you don't remove anything except the stock pulley and replace it with the new pulley and new belts.
^Ted^

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(not really, i just own a completely UNmodified 91 civic dx that gets 45+ mpg now)
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