3sgte rebuild shopping list?

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3sgte rebuild shopping list?

Postby gt_turbo » Thu Sep 30, 2004 7:26 pm

time to focus on my 3s swap project. my piston #1 is low on compression therefor i need to rebuild. i plan on just doing a mildly stock rebuild for my 93 3s swap. I would like the motor to be reliable for boost from 15-18psi when i feel like it but daily probably just 12-15psi. and i wanna keep it modestly as cheap as possible, my budget is at most $5k but i'd like to go as cheap as possible and get reliable quality parts. heres my list so far. feel free to add something that i am missing with the price if you know it and the website where i can get it from. also do not add anything that will require an ems to control because that's outta my time limit and budget. not going for 300+hp nothin too crazy. because its fwd after all. i just want a really fast and reliable daily driver. and do not worry about turbo and ic, because i have a upgraded ct20b and a st205 ic kit already. labor will be done by myself. this is my first complete rebuild so i am noobie at this.

-arp head studs
-alumnium fly wheel (is it worth the money$)
-arp main studs & fly wheel bolts (are these necessary?)
-toyota overhaul gasket kit
-MHG (no brand in mind yet & does size matter signicantly?)
-cams will be stock unless there are decent cams that are better than toyota for cheap
-should i leave my head stock?
-pistons - i hear toyota pistons cost a grip and so you mine as well get aftermarket forged ones for same or close enough prices? is it true that when you put je .02 over bore pistons in your 3s, then the stock ecu will no longer be sufficient and you'll need an ems? also if that's true, does je make any stock piston size replacements? if so what website can i find them at. every where i have looked i have seen .02 over bore.
-anything else?
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Postby jlcelica » Thu Sep 30, 2004 11:06 pm

for 5k i would do a basic rebuild with aftermarket pistons/rings/rods and go with a bigger turbo and maybe a standalone with a good boost controller . :wink: but what do i know :shrug: i hit 15psi no problem with my t3/t4 on a ST165 engine connected to my slushbox :twisted: taking it up to 17psi on tueday with tuning.
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Re: 3sgte rebuild shopping list?

Postby illGT4 » Thu Sep 30, 2004 11:26 pm

gt_turbo wrote:-arp head studs
-alumnium fly wheel (is it worth the money$)
-arp main studs & fly wheel bolts (are these necessary?)
-toyota overhaul gasket kit
-MHG (no brand in mind yet & does size matter signicantly?)
-cams will be stock unless there are decent cams that are better than toyota for cheap
-should i leave my head stock?
-pistons - i hear toyota pistons cost a grip and so you mine as well get aftermarket forged ones for same or close enough prices? is it true that when you put je .02 over bore pistons in your 3s, then the stock ecu will no longer be sufficient and you'll need an ems? also if that's true, does je make any stock piston size replacements? if so what website can i find them at. every where i have looked i have seen .02 over bore.
-anything else?


You can start with a OEM short block from Toyota. It will come ready to install for ~$1450. Contact Thompson Toyota out of Pennsylvania.

Add:

arp hardware
tte metal head gasket
port corrected head

That will be well within your budget.

No, it's not true about the .020" over JE's needing and EMS to control.

I like my Fidanza aluminum flywheel. Next time i'm going with something different though. I personally like fast revs. Some people don't because they fall just as fast. I like it. Won't go back to a stock flywheel.

The WTA IC and Ct20B will compliment the above nicely.


Good Luck with your rebuild.
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Postby turbo4wd » Thu Sep 30, 2004 11:58 pm

I dunno where you heard that Toyota pistons were expensive.. Unless you consider about $50 per piston expensive.. Aftermarket forged ones typically run double and up depending on what brand you get..

But if you're going to make this engine output significantly more than stock.. It would be a good idea to go forged along with some rods... Overbuilding an engine never hurts anything except your wallet.. :D
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Postby gt_turbo » Fri Oct 01, 2004 1:09 am

thanks for the replies guys. well i would consider buying a shortblock but i want the forged internals for the boost i'll be going for and extra assurance. do you need to bore out the block for the .02 je pistons or not? also what is port corrected head? and where can i purchase a tte hg for the best price? thanks again for the help
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Postby illGT4 » Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:39 am

gt_turbo wrote:thanks for the replies guys. well i would consider buying a shortblock but i want the forged internals for the boost i'll be going for and extra assurance. do you need to bore out the block for the .02 je pistons or not? also what is port corrected head? and where can i purchase a tte hg for the best price? thanks again for the help


Typically people go with a fresh bore of .020" over when changing pistons. But I do believe JE offers them at stock size. You'll just need to go with a little bit bigger ring. The put a fresh cross hatch for the size of the slightly bigger ring. The bores are setup for the equipment, so it's not always a set number.

I would just go with .020" over and call it a day. Same work involved really. Plus you get a little bigger bore. ;)

You don't need forged rods. The stock rods are very durable. Just get them shot peened. But if you want, eagles are the cheapest forged rods to get, pauter the most expensive. (there may be cheaper and more expensive, those are just what I know)

A port corrected head is not a full street port. It's mostly just porting around the valves. A street port ports the passages that lead to the valves both intake and exhaust. Depends on the porting though. You can typically get about 85% of the work done just by port correction. And save a little money.

I really suggest that if you are getting machine and head work done to find a builder that you know and trust. AND has done 3S-GTE work before.

You can get the TTE head gasket from a number of suppliers. I purchased mine from ATS Racing (atsracing.net) It was $150 when I bought it.

Hope this Helps,
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Postby gt_turbo » Fri Oct 01, 2004 11:31 am

helps a lot very informational. thanks illgt4.
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Postby Griffin » Fri Oct 01, 2004 2:49 pm

Since you're going to be building it I would suggest getting some Eagle H beam rods.
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Postby gt_turbo » Fri Oct 01, 2004 3:14 pm

thanks for the input griffin. i was just considering eagle's but do you know how good their quality is? and also i've heard you can get je's in pretty much any compression ratio you'd like, does anyone know which compression ratio is the best to get for my applications?
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Postby Griffin » Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:28 pm

gt_turbo wrote:thanks for the input griffin. i was just considering eagle's but do you know how good their quality is? and also i've heard you can get je's in pretty much any compression ratio you'd like, does anyone know which compression ratio is the best to get for my applications?


I have them in my engine - the initial quality was excellent - all looked flawless and weighed exactly the same and fit perfectly.

So far they are holding up well to 24PSI and 8500 RPM use.
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Postby illGT4 » Fri Oct 01, 2004 6:07 pm

illGT4 wrote:eagles are the cheapest forged rods to get, pauter the most expensive.




It should be noted that my remark was NOT refering to build quality. Just price.
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Postby illGT4 » Fri Oct 01, 2004 6:11 pm

gt_turbo wrote: and also i've heard you can get je's in pretty much any compression ratio you'd like, does anyone know which compression ratio is the best to get for my applications?


That can sometimes depend on preference.

The general "rule" is that you can run more boost on lower compression. And you get better spool up on higher comp.

BUT, I've seen and read about some engines that were built on 9:1 compression making killer horsepower.. properly tuned mind you.

2nd gen build ups that I've seen are anywhere between 8:1 to 9:1 compression. My last build was 9:1. My next build will be 9:1.
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Postby Griffin » Fri Oct 01, 2004 9:00 pm

illGT4 wrote:
illGT4 wrote:eagles are the cheapest forged rods to get, pauter the most expensive.




It should be noted that my remark was NOT refering to build quality. Just price.


Actually theer IS one brand more expensive than Pauter - Carillo - they are about $1200 for a new set of 4
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Postby illGT4 » Sat Oct 02, 2004 5:15 am

Griffin wrote:
illGT4 wrote:
illGT4 wrote:eagles are the cheapest forged rods to get, pauter the most expensive.




It should be noted that my remark was NOT refering to build quality. Just price.


Actually theer IS one brand more expensive than Pauter - Carillo - they are about $1200 for a new set of 4

Thanks Griffin
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Postby gt_turbo » Sat Oct 02, 2004 12:08 pm

i've decided to post pone the rebuild project and purchase my buddies fully built motor instead. since i am a busy college kid i don't have the time to spend playing with my motor as much as i would like. so my buddies selling it to me for $2k it has je pistons stock bore, forged rods, arp stuff, hks mhg, 3rd gen 3sgte head, ported and polished as well, hks springs, and shimless mrs buckets, but no cams, no turbo, because he sold them sometime ago. and the motor was already broken in for 2k miles. so i'm thinking this is a good deal. considering i would end up spending just bout up to $2k if i did my own rebuild. and he's selling it at i price which i just can't pass up.
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