How do i remove and put back my turbo

Q&A regarding engines, turbos, and intercoolers and power upgrades

How do i remove and put back my turbo

Postby XXX_Mina » Thu Oct 14, 2004 7:42 pm

i need to remove my ct20b to get it rebuilt or replaced (havent picked yet) , does anyone know where i can get instructions to do this for a 205 engine ... or for the 185 if they are similar enough... i would love step by step instructions, or the simple basics would be good.. i wanna remove everything, exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe... iam not sure what iam putting in its place yet...

Mina
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Postby RIalltrac » Thu Oct 14, 2004 7:51 pm

If you want to remove the exhaust mani, turbo & downpipe I say remove them as one piece. Basically remove anything that is in the way, like the alternator and maybe the a/c compressor. I removed my radiator to prevent me from wrecking it. Then take a look at any brackets holding the downpipe & turbo in place, you would also need to disconnect the oil/coolant lines from the turbo. then just disconnect the mid pipe from the downpipe and remove the exhaust manifold from the head, its not going to be an easy job, it was rather time consuming for me but I was also doing it by myself. Good luck
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Postby XXX_Mina » Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:13 pm

do i need new gaskets or sealent or anything? will draining my oil help in anyway... i need an oil change, so thats not a problem. as for the coolant, will it be hard to plug up or will the lines leak all over the place.

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Postby tweekgt4 » Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:52 pm

it's easier to remove the manifold, turbo, and downpipe/cat at the same time.

disconnect battery, remove the IC, drain oil, drain coolant and remove coolant hoses, remove alternator, unbolt the oil line from the bottom, unbolt midpipe, unbolt cat from block, unbolt manifold, and pull off in one piece.

removing the radiator will give you some added clearance too.

it's pretty basic but should give you an idea.
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Postby Stubble » Sat Oct 16, 2004 1:32 am

If your coolant is less than 2 years old, you can collect it in a clean container and reuse it. But for the cost of a jug of Prestone, might as well replace it. Toss the engine oil. Anywhere a gasket is found in the dismantle, you should use a new replacement. Gaskets are cheap. Replacing them after a rebuild because of a leak is a pain. You could get away with re-using the exhaust pipe gaskets though.
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Postby Rick89GTS » Sat Oct 16, 2004 7:43 am

Definately remove the radiator; it makes the job much easier and saves you from accidentally damaging it. The other thing you want to do is liberally lube everything up with some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster and let it penetrate for at least a few days before doing the actual job. Trust me, it'll save you headaches later on.

I have a step by step somewhere, I'll see if I can find it. In the meantime, look in the FYI section. Someone posted the ST185 BGB and it has a turbo removal section, which'll be fine for your car..
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Postby Trance4c » Sat Oct 16, 2004 10:56 pm

1. Remove radiator
2. Undo return line to oil pan
3. Undo banjo bolt to oil feed from block
4. unbolt coolant pipe at turbo
5. remove alternator
6. take out all the exhaust manifold to head studs/bolts
7. unbolt downpipe from exhaust

Remove the whole turbo assembly as one piece.. easy enough.
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Postby T-spoon » Sun Oct 17, 2004 5:54 pm

having an aftermarket DP must make all the difference in the world, I pulled the turbo out in a few hours without removing anything other than turbo, downpipe, alternater snorkel rubber pieces and intercooler (left manifold on). Having worked with the stock elbow and cat/downpipe though, I can see where the suggested items to remove would really help out, the stock pieces are a real hassle to deal with.
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Postby Trance4c » Sun Oct 17, 2004 7:48 pm

T-spoon wrote:having an aftermarket DP must make all the difference in the world, I pulled the turbo out in a few hours without removing anything other than turbo, downpipe, alternater snorkel rubber pieces and intercooler (left manifold on). Having worked with the stock elbow and cat/downpipe though, I can see where the suggested items to remove would really help out, the stock pieces are a real hassle to deal with.


Not really.. the only big difference is the extra brackets that hold the stock downpipe to the block. The only serious negatives to this I could see is if your not using the correct tools. After all, many of those bolts will be rusted up and require a certain amount of finess.
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Postby T-spoon » Mon Oct 18, 2004 3:03 am

well, I was thinking about the gross weight and size differences between teh stock assembly and something like the aussie DP. I was going to assume that's what makes the difference rather than me being that much faster at it than the other people that posted. I know it took me much longer to do my MR2 and it had the stock assembly on it... anyway..
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Postby Trance4c » Mon Oct 18, 2004 9:57 pm

T-spoon wrote:well, I was thinking about the gross weight and size differences between teh stock assembly and something like the aussie DP. I was going to assume that's what makes the difference rather than me being that much faster at it than the other people that posted. I know it took me much longer to do my MR2 and it had the stock assembly on it... anyway..


turbo pull on mr2.. :shock: ewww.. never again. I've done that, never again!! :cry:

The celica is so much easier, you have no idea the kind of world in access we can get to everything. I have also done a 3S-GTE swap into NA, just hate working on those things, no offense to the car though.

The stock downpipe I wouldn't say weighs a whole lot less once gutted, but while the stock cat is in there, it might weigh a bit if your fairly weak I think. The stock unit is also a cumbersome unit, thats why I say leave the parts together and remove the whole thing as a full turbo/exhaust/manifold assembly. In an MR2.. this is just about nearly impossible.. thats a completely different story.

I had this conversation with nuke the other day, we both agreed how easy the FWD layout is to work on. He asked me if I still liked FWD and I said, I never necessarily liked it, but I own it for many reasons, one of them being that they're very simple to work on for the most part.
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Postby T-spoon » Tue Oct 19, 2004 1:54 am

Well yeah, I was comparing doing it on a 90 alltrac as opposed to a 93 mr2, the alltrac with aussie dp, the mr2 with stock assembly. I wasn't certain if the ease of it with the alltrac was just that they were so much easier in general, or if it was having to deal with the whole messy assembly in the MR2 or a combination of the above. In any event, I get to do MR2 at least a few more times, I think I'll be missing the alltrac about then ;)
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