Replacing turbo

Q&A regarding engines, turbos, and intercoolers and power upgrades

Replacing turbo

Postby Cormudgen » Tue Nov 02, 2004 7:34 pm

Ok,

my new turbo came in today. (JDM with ceraic blades and aproximately 20,200 km on it suppodely). I have to make a road trip home tommorw for my little sisters birthday. It is a project that I can almost be guranteed to accomplish in one day?

Also, while on the topic: what is the max you would boost on ceramic blade turbo?
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Postby GT4CE » Tue Nov 02, 2004 7:50 pm

So your new turbo is a CT-20B?

I'm not sure of the max boost, but I believe the CT-26 is only good up to 16 psi, because of it's efficiency it creates too much heat over making more boost useless.

With the ceramic blades it should be higher, I would think.
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Postby d1alltrac » Tue Nov 02, 2004 8:24 pm

Ive taken off my turbo and put it back on within 4 hours or so, the only thing i had problems with was rusted on nuts and such, cause of that i ended up pulling the manifold, turbo, and dp all as one piece, would prob be easier if you pull the rad and take off the bumper so you can more easily get to things, i didnt do any of that though

i say it should be an easy afternoon project.
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Postby mtbgael » Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:09 pm

I would assume he means a JDM CT-26, not CT-20B.

Someone on the board is running like 27psi through a CT-26, so run what you dare until you detonate or think the motor's going to blow up :D
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Postby Cormudgen » Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:29 pm

mtbgael wrote:I would assume he means a JDM CT-26, not CT-20B.

Someone on the board is running like 27psi through a CT-26, so run what you dare until you detonate or think the motor's going to blow up :D



I apologize. It is a JDM CT-26

thanks, i think i'ma goin to jump on the project tonight
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Re: Replacing turbo

Postby Cormudgen » Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:29 pm

Cormudgen wrote:Ok,

my new turbo came in today. (JDM CT26 with ceramic blades and aproximately 20,200 km on it suppodely). I have to make a road trip home tommorw for my little sisters birthday. It is a project that I can almost be guranteed to accomplish in one day?

Also, while on the topic: what is the max you would boost on ceramic blade turbo?
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Postby T-spoon » Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:22 pm

I pulled the dead one in about 5 hours and put the new one in in about 3.5-4 hours on the alltrac. It really all depends on if you run into hangups or not. I highly recommend if you have stock DP/cat to attach the oil feed and return to the engine first and then aim the turbo assembly onto it. I had to secure it behind the stock cat/dp on my MR2 after it was all in and it was no fun that way. I'm not sure how good of an idea it was, but on the alltrac all I removed was the turbo itself and the DP, didn't take out alternator or manifold. That required removing the studs from the turbo to slide it under the manifold and onto the oil lines and then thread the studs in from underneath, which was a wee bit tricky, so I dunno if that was an improvement over taking off the manifold with it. I did it the other way on the MR2 (taking everything out) and it felt like a much harder job that way (physically).
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Postby gt_turbo » Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:35 pm

if you don't have problems with rusty studs you should be fine. also don't forget to purchase the ct26 turbo gasket kit, the exhaust manifold gaskets, the big oil bolt return gasket, and any other gaskets that you will be removing. also don't over torque bolts and make sure to torque to spec with a torque wrench. and remeber don't forget the 27mm oil bolt before trying to remove the turbo. also removing the radiator would be a big plus for space. good luck
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Postby furpo » Wed Nov 03, 2004 12:52 am

if you have the standard exhaust dump pipe and cat then don't turn the boost up at all. if you have an aftermarket dump pipe of some sort 14psi all day every day is about the limit. if you are only running standard boost and bumping it you every now and again about 16 psi is the limit with the stock air to air intercooler. it is a good idea to have some sort of way to tell if the ecu is trying to cut back the boost if you have removed the standard boost controller.

a day would be ok if you dont have a problem. the oil feed is a prick to get at so keep this in mind and yes pulling the raiator is good.

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Postby Cormudgen » Wed Nov 03, 2004 2:54 am

gt_turbo wrote:if you don't have problems with rusty studs you should be fine. also don't forget to purchase the ct26 turbo gasket kit, the exhaust manifold gaskets, the big oil bolt return gasket, and any other gaskets that you will be removing. also don't over torque bolts and make sure to torque to spec with a torque wrench. and remeber don't forget the 27mm oil bolt before trying to remove the turbo. also removing the radiator would be a big plus for space. good luck


turns out i didn't have time to do it and didnt wanna risk having no car tommorw since I will definetly need it. intend to try and do it this saturday. kinda sucks trying to do on a weekday b/c i dont get out of work or class until 6 and then 30 min later its dark.

where can i pick up a gasket kit? anyone know the torque specs?
thanks for all the help

and how more complicated is it without removing the radiator?
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Postby furpo » Wed Nov 03, 2004 3:05 am

two hose clips, pop of the water hoses, undo the top radiator brackets (4 x 10mm bolts) left it 1/2 way out, unplug the water temp wire, lift it the rest of the way out and bob is your uncle.

roger
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Postby T-spoon » Wed Nov 03, 2004 3:09 am

Yeah, the radiator comes out extremely easily, and you gotta drain it anyway unless you want coolant going everywhere when you take off the water feed/return to the turbo. I didn't think about doing it, but I did replace the radiator on a separate occasion, it's so easy that I think it would be worth your while for the extra maneuvering room.
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Postby Cormudgen » Wed Nov 03, 2004 1:27 pm

good point, i forgot about the fact that I would have to drain the coolant regardless. i think I will definetly remove the radiator. How do you drain the coolant?
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Postby gt_turbo » Wed Nov 03, 2004 4:36 pm

gaskets, you need to visit toyota dealership and ask in the parts department. they take like anywhere from 1-2 days to a week to get there tho depending if they are not in stock. so i'll advise you to order them asap from a local dealer so you can pick it up asap. just get the dealers phone # and give them a call.

drain radiator is easy, take off all that plastic protection crap on the bottom of the car. and then you will see a hose and white turning switch coming from the radiator. just unscrew the white switch thing and coolant will come out. also you should definitely check mr2oc.com for the mr2 BGB manual. i don't know the link but maybe somebody else has the direct link to it. the turbo removal and install is pretty much the same as a mr2 and step by step directions and pics are there and torque specs. its definitely a must look at before u start.
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Postby Cormudgen » Sat Nov 06, 2004 4:02 pm

Ok Started working on it last night. Got a little progress before it got dark. About to start up again today.

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Update on what goin on:
Green In the pic: that bolt was striped preventing me from looseing the belt around the alternator to remove it. Ended up cutting the belt and buying a new one and am going to replace that bolt if I can ever get it out somehow.

Red in the pic: Having the HARDEST time breaking these bolts that hold the alternator bracket down loose. The reason I need to remove the alternator bracket is becuase I need to get at the last bolt on the exhaust manifold(blue)

Blue in the pic: Last bolt on the exhuast manifold that is nearly impossible to get to without alternator and alternator bracket removed.

By getting down to the turbo(havnet removed it yet) i can FEEL how much shaft play it has and it is RIDICULOUS! I'm quite relieved.
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